74 Dart Sport New Toy!

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RAMCTD2003

340dart
Joined
Oct 5, 2007
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Location
Grand Junction, Colorado
Just picked it up today! Bought it from a buddy of mine.
225 slant six, automatic, been in Colorado since 1976.
Super clean, no rust. Only blemish is the drivers seat back which is splitting at the seams.
Has rear electric window defroster, hood release on the inside.
I am going to be converting this to a 360/727/8.75 rear.

I have most of the parts to get it done. All I need are axles, rear disc brakes, wheels & tires and driveshaft and floor shifter.

I am going to make this kind of like a touring car. Will be putting on the Hotchkis TVS package with 1.03 PST torsion bars. Going to leave it as a sleeper on the outside.

Thanks for looking.
 

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Very nice survivor car; not sure I would change a thing but I understand where you are coming from especially since you have most of the parts for the transplant.

Good luck with the project.
 
That is a nice original car right there. You're braver than me, I'm not sure I could tear it apart.
 
Here is some more progress from yesterday. Pulled the engine and transmission.
Ordered my rear disc brakes, moser axles and wilwood master cylinder.
Now I need to order wheels and tires. I want 17" but I am having a hard time deciding.
I have read a lot on FABO and it's overwhelming to say the least.
 

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If you're going for a sleeper look then I think the exterior is already perfect. It seems to be clean and solid, a great starting point for a cool build.
 
Thanks for the encouragement! The reason I want 17's is for handling since I am using the Hotchkis TVS system and 1.03 torsion bars. I was thinking about the year one rally wheels but from what I've read the backspacing is not optimal for A-bodies.
 
Some more updates. Got the steering box, rear disc brakes and master cylinder.
 

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Thanks for the encouragement! The reason I want 17's is for handling since I am using the Hotchkis TVS system and 1.03 torsion bars. I was thinking about the year one rally wheels but from what I've read the backspacing is not optimal for A-bodies.

It's worse than not optimal, with the YearOne rallye's it's pretty much impossible. The 17x8's have a 4.25" backspace. That won't even work with a 225/50/17, and that's the narrowest tire you can realistically fit on that wide a rim. Even with the 225's they'd stick out over a 1/4" past where my 275/35/18's sit, and I don't have much, if any, space to give up to the fender. Definitely not a 1/4".

The YearOne Magnum's are 17x8" with a 4.5" backspace, that would technically fit with a 225/50/17. I'm just guessing, but I'd bet you weren't going to 17" rims to run 225's though.

You should seam weld and reinforce that K frame before you install it! Especially the steering box mount with that 16:1 Flaming river box...
 
It's worse than not optimal, with the YearOne rallye's it's pretty much impossible. The 17x8's have a 4.25" backspace. That won't even work with a 225/50/17, and that's the narrowest tire you can realistically fit on that wide a rim. Even with the 225's they'd stick out over a 1/4" past where my 275/35/18's sit, and I don't have much, if any, space to give up to the fender. Definitely not a 1/4".

The YearOne Magnum's are 17x8" with a 4.5" backspace, that would technically fit with a 225/50/17. I'm just guessing, but I'd bet you weren't going to 17" rims to run 225's though.

You should seam weld and reinforce that K frame before you install it! Especially the steering box mount with that 16:1 Flaming river box...
Thanks for the input. If you don't mind me asking what wheels are you running?
I would definitely like to run something wider than a 225 tire!
I will weld up the seams and reinforce it, thanks for the heads up.
 
The wheels are Enkei RPF1's. In the front they're 18x9's with a 35mm offset, but I run Dr. Diff's 13" cobra style rotor kit and 5mm spacers. Tires are 275/35/18's. In the back they're 18x10's with a 38mm offset, but I have a 68-70 B-body 8 3/4. Tires are 295/35/18's, but I also run a 1/2" spring offset and cut another 1/2" off of the quarter lip.

Yeah I would definitely reinforce the K member while its out. The one in my Duster actually had broken the weld on the steering/engine mount, to the point that when the steering wheel was turned the entire mount would pull away from the K. Talk about some slop in the wheel!

I reinforced mine like Firm Feel does theirs. I fully welded all the seams, went over all of the factory welds, boxed and gusseted the steering box mount, and added reinforcements to the LCA mounts.
 
Thanks for the info. I will know more when I get my axles next week and get the brakes on then I can start measuring for wheels. Did you minitub your car to run those 295's?
 
Thanks for the info. I will know more when I get my axles next week and get the brakes on then I can start measuring for wheels. Did you minitub your car to run those 295's?

Nope, no mini-tub. I run a 1/2" spring offset (42" c-c on the perches) and trimmed the quarter flange back about a 1/2".
 
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