74 Dart Swing 225 Electronic Ignition Module

-
Tigger181

Tigger181

Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2024
Messages
5
Reaction score
13
Location
Buckley, WA, USA
Hey all, I've been searching for a while but haven't been able to find an answer yet.
I have a 74 Dart Swinger with a 225 Slant 6, all original (I'm the second owner). I'm going through the ignition system due to a no spark condition. To this point I've traced back to the Chrysler Electronic Ignition module. The service book I have recommends testing continuity from pin 5 to a good ground, which I didn't have (Please let me know if you have any other ways of testing).

After removing the module and cleaning the mating surfaces and testing directly from pin 5 to the outer mating surface, I have a high amount of resistance (100+ohms) which leads me to believe that the module is bad and could be one of many factors in my no spark (Car ran last September before I parked it and replaced the rusted fuel tank this last winter/spring. Going to be replacing all the typical culprits, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ensure clean grounds and connections)

Looking at a few different parts sources, everyone seems to agree that the 74 Dart 225 was a 4 pin module but the one I have is definitely a 5 pin which is listed as a 75-76.
Has anyone ran into this before and am I just overthinking things? Nothing looks obviously spliced or adapted. Since I have the wiring for a 5 pin I'll be ordering a 5 pin, I was going to go with Classic Industries CR114 unless anyone has a better suggestion.
I appreciate any insights and ideas
 
You don't need a 5 pin, and for years now, just about all replacement ones have been 4 pin. The 5th pin is supplied power via the second half of the ballast resistor. You can use a 4 or 5 pin module with a 4 pin ballast, but you can only use a 4 pin module with a 2 pin ballast.
 

....Or you can switch to HEI & an E core which will....eliminate a lot of wiring.......eliminate the bal resistors...& potential trouble spots....& give you a hotter spark.
 
shut it down boys. the HEI disciples hath arrived!
the spot up was 10 posts, so if you had the under shoot me a PM to collect your prize.

if you bet the parlay of: make a simple matter unnecessarily complicated for no reason what so ever, you're in luck! that pays 5:1
 
Tigger181 said:
Looking at a few different parts sources, everyone seems to agree that the 74 Dart 225 was a 4 pin module but the one I have is definitely a 5 pin which is listed as a 75-76.
Click to expand...
You now know "everyone" is wrong. The way to know this is to go to the original information.
The solid state ignition was introduced in the 1971 and 1972 model years.
There is a 1972 Master Tech Service Conference explaining the new system.

Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics

The Imperial Mailing List Online Car Club is dedicated to the preservation, appreciation and restoration of Imperials and Chrysler Imperials of all years, models and body-styles.
www.web.imperialclub.info

There is 1971 TSB covering the running implementation for 340 equiped cars.
Tigger181 said:
Since I have the wiring for a 5 pin I'll be ordering a 5 pin, I was going to go with Classic Industries CR114 unless anyone has a better suggestion.
Click to expand...

As mentioned by @67Dart273, no one has made a 5 pin functioning module for years. If you have one, it will work. If you have a 4 pin, it will also work.
Classic is the last place I buy anything. Occassionally they are the only retailer for a part. Otherwise you can by better, often for less, elsewhere.

Tigger181 said:
The service book I have recommends testing continuity from pin 5 to a good ground, which I didn't have (Please let me know if you have any other ways of testing).
Click to expand...
What service book?
The TSB calls one of the pickup wires from the distributor pin 5.
 
Last edited:
Tigger181 said:
all original
Click to expand...
Are you using a spark tester?
1751720655215.png

No issue with the seat belt interlock on start up?
 
Tigger181 said:
Hey all, I've been searching for a while but haven't been able to find an answer yet.
I have a 74 Dart Swinger with a 225 Slant 6, all original (I'm the second owner). I'm going through the ignition system due to a no spark condition. To this point I've traced back to the Chrysler Electronic Ignition module. The service book I have recommends testing continuity from pin 5 to a good ground, which I didn't have (Please let me know if you have any other ways of testing).

After removing the module and cleaning the mating surfaces and testing directly from pin 5 to the outer mating surface, I have a high amount of resistance (100+ohms) which leads me to believe that the module is bad and could be one of many factors in my no spark (Car ran last September before I parked it and replaced the rusted fuel tank this last winter/spring. Going to be replacing all the typical culprits, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ensure clean grounds and connections)

Looking at a few different parts sources, everyone seems to agree that the 74 Dart 225 was a 4 pin module but the one I have is definitely a 5 pin which is listed as a 75-76.
Has anyone ran into this before and am I just overthinking things? Nothing looks obviously spliced or adapted. Since I have the wiring for a 5 pin I'll be ordering a 5 pin, I was going to go with Classic Industries CR114 unless anyone has a better suggestion.
I appreciate any insights and ideas
Click to expand...

The electronic control unit (ECU) originally equipped in 1974 was Chrysler number 3755550. A 1975-1976 original ECU was Chrysler number 3874020, which was used through 1979. Both of these ECUs are 5-pin units, and do require the four terminal ballast resistor (part number 3656199 or 3874767) and associated wiring.

As mentioned, a 4-pin ECU can be used as a replacement without changing the wiring or ballast resistor. In 1980, Chrysler revised the 5-pin ECUs to remove the external auxiliary resistor connected to the fifth pin of the ECU. The external resistor function is included internally in the revised internal circuitry. In the case of replacing a 5-pin ECU with a 4-pin ECU, the auxiliary half of the dual resistor that was previously connected to the fifth pin (pin #3 in the following diagram) is now unused.

Connecting an ohmmeter between pin #5 of the ECU and ground as shown in the following diagram is a valid test of the ground integrity of the ECU, but is not a full functionality test. The test results should be near zero ohms for the connected pin and ground, accounting for test leads resistance. Up to a couple of ohms as measured is okay. If greater than this, check the resistance from the pin to the actual ECU case. Pierce the paint on the ECU to get good metal contact. If still greater than a couple of ohms, the ECU internal ground integrity is in question. If the readings are an open circuit, the ECU is definitely bad. For a measured 100 ohms, and it has been verified that the test connections to the pin and case are solid, then the ECU is likely questionable. It might still work in some cases, but 100 ohms is too high, albeit not an open circuit.

Screenshot 2025-07-05 9.43.21 AM.png


The aftermarket ECU number CR114 was originally a Wells number. Wells is now Wells Vehicle Electronics and advertise different numbering. CR114 is also an Autozone Duralast number (likely made by Wells). ECUs are available at numerous sources, so it is not necessary to purchase from a restoration parts distributor such as Classic Industries.

I still have original 70s ECUs in service, and have NOS units as spares if needed. Modern ECUs can be problematic as they are no longer constructed correctly, but that may be your only recourse. Shopping for NOS, or good used original units is a possibility.

Following is a listing of Chrysler original production ECUs, followed by a listing of many aftermarket ECUs for your information. The aftermarket ECUs are partially identified as specific 5-pin or 4-pin. Note that some 4-pin ECUs may actually have five external pins, but the fifth pin is a "dummy". In the early 1980s, customers were confused by the 4-pin replacement ECUs, so some manufacturers added the dummy pin to avoid it. Now, some do, some don't.

Summary of Chrysler Production ECUs​


​
Part NumberUsagePinsNotes
34388501971-197251971 - 340 manual transmission only.
365612719725400 & 440 HP manual transmission, engine speed limited.
365612819725340 manual transmission, engine speed limited.
365690019735Improved cold starting.
375555019745Radio suppression capacitor.
38740201974 - 19795Voltage spike protection.
41118501980 - 19914Four pins, two terminal external ballast resistor.



Aftermarket ECUs​

AC Delco
- C1900 (5-pin)
- C1900B (5-pin)
- C1900Z (5-pin)
- C1907
- C1908 (4-pin)
- C1908B (4-pin)
- 1972454 (5-pin)
- 12309038
- 12327406
- 12334603
- 12334872 (5-pin)

Airtex
- 6H1062 (4-pin)
- 6H1063 (4-pin)
- 6H1064 (4-pin, possibly with dummy fifth pin)

Atlas
- AL401 (4-pin)

Autopart International
- 250634603
- 34603
- 98523

Auto Tune
- E310/E315 (4-pin) (visual pack)
- PT315 (4-pin)

Autozone (GP Sorensen)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Big A (See Echlin)

Borg Warner, BWD
- CBE5 (5-pin)
- CBE5P (5-pin)
- CBE14 (4-pin)
- CBE14P (4-pin)
- CBE14Z (4-pin)

Bosch
- 9290010655 (5-pin) (Mexico, may have different case configuration)

CarQuest
- 55-1562 (4-pin) (Wells)
- 55-1563 (4-pin) (Wells)
- 55-1564 (4-pin) (Wells)
- LX101 (4-pin) (SMP)
- 7037
- CBE1016 (4-pin)
- CBE1027 (4-pin)

Cartek
- 7037
- 7096

CDI Electronics
- E11-0001 (marine)

COBRALINE
- EL110V

Delco
- See AC Delco

DelcoRibo
- IGM1037 (4-pin)
- IGM1038 (5 pin, dummy fifth pin)

Delphi
- DS10067

Duralast
- ICMB10075
- ICMB10134
- CR100 (5-pin)
- CR109 (4-pin)
- CR114 (4-pin)

Dura-Life (E-Tron)
- A411HT (4-pin)
- A850HT (5-pin)

Echlin/NAPA
- TP50 (5-pin)
- TP51 (4-pin)

ELVAC
- E165 5 (5-pin) (Mexico, may have different case configuration)

E-Tron
- A411 (4-pin)
- A850 (5-pin)
- CEB (5-pin)

FCI (Factory Connections Int)
- MD-801 (4-pin)

Federated Ignition
- CBE14SB

Filko
- CH-300 (5-pin)
- CH-300X (5-pin)
- CH-301 (4-pin)

Finline
- 99719

Forecast
- 7096 (5-pin, later units might be 4-pin)

Formula Auto Parts
- IGM12 (4-pin)
- IGM16 (5-pin)

General Motors
- 12334603

Goss Vehicle Mechatronics (Australia)
- IM136 (5-pin)

GP Sorensen
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Guaranteed Parts (GP)
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

High-Tech
- E100 (HT-100) (4-pin)

HiRev 7500
- 40805 (4-pin)

Jegs
- 555-40800, 40800 “Orange box” (4-pin)
- 555-40805, 40805 “Blue box”, HiRev 7500 (4-pin)

Kem, KemParts
- E100 (5-pin)
- E106 (4-pin)
- E106X (4-pin)
- IM-100 (4-pin, May have dummy fifth pin)

Lucas
- DAB591

Mancini Racing
- MRE4120505 (4-pin) (Pseudo-copy of Mopar P4120505)
- MREP4120505-BLK (4-pin) (MRE4120505 black case)

Marelli
- 940038516

MasterPro
- 2-7037 or 27037

Mighty
- 2-3000 (5-pin)
- 2-3000A (4-pin)

Mileage Plus Ignition (MPI)
- TP50SB (5-pin)
- TP51SB (4-pin)

MobileTron
- IG-C411 (4-pin, may have dummy fifth pin)
- IG-C850 (4-pin)

Motorcraft
- DYC-162 (5-pin)

Motorola
- 6-60 (5-pin)

NAPA (See Echlin)

Niehoff
- AL401 (5-pin)
- AL403 (4-pin)
- AL403CS (4-pin)

Original Equipment Management
- 7037
- 7096 (4-pin)

Preferred Parts
- M-2020 (4-pin)

Premier Auto Trade (PAT) (Australia)
- MOD-066 (5-pin)

ProForm
- 440-424 “Orange box” (4-pin) (includes wiring harness)
- 440-425 “Blue box” (4-pin) (includes wiring harness)

P&D
- C-1 (5-pin) (Less RPM Limiter)

Regitar
- C411 (4-pin, may have dummy fifth pin)
- C850 (4-pin)

The R/T Garage
- REV-N-NATOR (4-pin) (Adjustable rev limiter)

Sierra Marine
- CR109 (4-pin)

Sierra Supply
- 18-5105 (5 pin) (replaces 3874020)

Sorensen
- CE24 (Pulsemaker) (4-pin)

SOSMetal
- 122101 (4-pin)

Standard Motor Products, Elextron
- LX100 (5-pin)
- LX101 (4-pin)
- LX101T (4-pin)

Switches (Kidde, Federal Mogul)
- 400020 (5-pin)
- 400040 (4-pin)

TMR
- IG-C411 (4-pin)

Transpo
- CM850 (4-pin)
- CM900 (5-pin, dummy fifth pin)

Tridon (Australia)
- TIM024 (5-pin)

Trust
- PT315 (4-pin)

Tru-Tech (Standard Motor Products)
- LX-101T (4-pin)

United Motor Products
- M411 (4-pin)

WAIglobal
- CM850 (4-pin)
- ICM101 (4-pin)

Wells
- CR100 (5-pin)
- CR1100 (5-pin, carded)
- CR109 (4-pin)
- CR1109 (4-pin, carded)
- CR114 (4-pin, with a dummy fifth pin)
- 551562 or 55-1562 (4-pin)
- 551563 or 55-1563 (4-pin)
- 551564 or 55-1564 (4-pin)

White Motor Company (OEM user)
- 31-2759157 (5-pin)

WVE (Wells Vehicle Electronics)
- 6H1062 (4-pin)
- 6H1063 (4-pin)
- 6H1064 (4-pin, possibly with dummy fifth pin)

 
Last edited:
Looks like the knowledgeable ignition folks are on the scene helping you out!

Regardless what car problems one encounters on a 50+yr old car, unless you’ve had the car since new and always did the work on it, it’s best not to say it’s “all original”. A lot can happen in 50 years regardless if you are the first, second or 11th owner of the car. Plus it may lead the folks trying to help you out down a dead end based on the (incorrect) context provided.
 
Vaanth said:
The electronic control unit (ECU) originally equipped in 1974 was Chrysler number 3755550. A 1975-1976 original ECU was Chrysler number 3874020, which was used through 1979. Both of these ECUs are 5-pin units, and do require the four terminal ballast resistor (part number 3656199 or 3874767) and associated wiring.

As mentioned, a 4-pin ECU can be used as a replacement without changing the wiring or ballast resistor. In 1980, Chrysler revised the 5-pin ECUs to remove the external auxiliary resistor connected to the fifth pin of the ECU. The external resistor function is included internally in the revised internal circuitry. In the case of replacing a 5-pin ECU with a 4-pin ECU, the auxiliary half of the dual resistor that was previously connected to the fifth pin (pin #3 in the following diagram) is now unused.

Connecting an ohmmeter between pin #5 of the ECU and ground as shown in the following diagram is a valid test of the ground integrity of the ECU, but is not a full functionality test. The test results should be near zero ohms for the connected pin and ground, accounting for test leads resistance. Up to a couple of ohms as measured is okay. If greater than this, check the resistance from the pin to the actual ECU case. Pierce the paint on the ECU to get good metal contact. If still greater than a couple of ohms, the ECU internal ground integrity is in question. If the readings are an open circuit, the ECU is definitely bad. For a measured 100 ohms, and it has been verified that the test connections to the pin and case are solid, then the ECU is likely questionable. It might still work in some cases, but 100 ohms is too high, albeit not an open circuit.

View attachment 1716426704

The aftermarket ECU number CR114 was originally a Wells number. Wells is now Wells Vehicle Electronics and advertise different numbering. CR114 is also an Autozone Duralast number (likely made by Wells). ECUs are available at numerous sources, so it is not necessary to purchase from a restoration parts distributor such as Classic Industries.

I still have original 70s ECUs in service, and have NOS units as spares if needed. Modern ECUs can be problematic as they are no longer constructed correctly, but that may be your only recourse. Shopping for NOS, or good used original units is a possibility.

Following is a listing of Chrysler original production ECUs, followed by a listing of many aftermarket ECUs for your information. The aftermarket ECUs are partially identified as specific 5-pin or 4-pin. Note that some 4-pin ECUs may actually have five external pins, but the fifth pin is a "dummy". In the early 1980s, customers were confused by the 4-pin replacement ECUs, so some manufacturers added the dummy pin to avoid it. Now, some do, some don't.

Summary of Chrysler Production ECUs​


​
Part NumberUsagePinsNotes
34388501971-197251971 - 340 manual transmission only.
365612719725400 & 440 HP manual transmission, engine speed limited.
365612819725340 manual transmission, engine speed limited.
365690019735Improved cold starting.
375555019745Radio suppression capacitor.
38740201974 - 19795Voltage spike protection.
41118501980 - 19914Four pins, two terminal external ballast resistor.



Aftermarket ECUs​

AC Delco
- C1900 (5-pin)
- C1900B (5-pin)
- C1900Z (5-pin)
- C1907
- C1908 (4-pin)
- C1908B (4-pin)
- 1972454 (5-pin)
- 12309038
- 12327406
- 12334603
- 12334872 (5-pin)

Airtex
- 6H1062 (4-pin)
- 6H1063 (4-pin)
- 6H1064 (4-pin, possibly with dummy fifth pin)

Atlas
- AL401 (4-pin)

Autopart International
- 250634603
- 34603
- 98523

Auto Tune
- E310/E315 (4-pin) (visual pack)
- PT315 (4-pin)

Autozone (GP Sorensen)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Big A (See Echlin)

Borg Warner, BWD
- CBE5 (5-pin)
- CBE5P (5-pin)
- CBE14 (4-pin)
- CBE14P (4-pin)
- CBE14Z (4-pin)

Bosch
- 9290010655 (5-pin) (Mexico, may have different case configuration)

CarQuest
- 55-1562 (4-pin) (Wells)
- 55-1563 (4-pin) (Wells)
- 55-1564 (4-pin) (Wells)
- LX101 (4-pin) (SMP)
- 7037
- CBE1016 (4-pin)
- CBE1027 (4-pin)

Cartek
- 7037
- 7096

CDI Electronics
- E11-0001 (marine)

COBRALINE
- EL110V

Delco
- See AC Delco

DelcoRibo
- IGM1037 (4-pin)
- IGM1038 (5 pin, dummy fifth pin)

Delphi
- DS10067

Duralast
- ICMB10075
- ICMB10134
- CR100 (5-pin)
- CR109 (4-pin)
- CR114 (4-pin)

Dura-Life (E-Tron)
- A411HT (4-pin)
- A850HT (5-pin)

Echlin/NAPA
- TP50 (5-pin)
- TP51 (4-pin)

ELVAC
- E165 5 (5-pin) (Mexico, may have different case configuration)

E-Tron
- A411 (4-pin)
- A850 (5-pin)
- CEB (5-pin)

FCI (Factory Connections Int)
- MD-801 (4-pin)

Federated Ignition
- CBE14SB

Filko
- CH-300 (5-pin)
- CH-300X (5-pin)
- CH-301 (4-pin)

Finline
- 99719

Forecast
- 7096 (5-pin, later units might be 4-pin)

Formula Auto Parts
- IGM12 (4-pin)
- IGM16 (5-pin)

General Motors
- 12334603

Goss Vehicle Mechatronics (Australia)
- IM136 (5-pin)

GP Sorensen
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

Guaranteed Parts (GP)
- EL101 (5-pin)
- EL110 (4-pin)

High-Tech
- E100 (HT-100) (4-pin)

HiRev 7500
- 40805 (4-pin)

Jegs
- 555-40800, 40800 “Orange box” (4-pin)
- 555-40805, 40805 “Blue box”, HiRev 7500 (4-pin)

Kem, KemParts
- E100 (5-pin)
- E106 (4-pin)
- E106X (4-pin)
- IM-100 (4-pin, May have dummy fifth pin)

Lucas
- DAB591

Mancini Racing
- MRE4120505 (4-pin) (Pseudo-copy of Mopar P4120505)
- MREP4120505-BLK (4-pin) (MRE4120505 black case)

Marelli
- 940038516

MasterPro
- 2-7037 or 27037

Mighty
- 2-3000 (5-pin)
- 2-3000A (4-pin)

Mileage Plus Ignition (MPI)
- TP50SB (5-pin)
- TP51SB (4-pin)

MobileTron
- IG-C411 (4-pin, may have dummy fifth pin)
- IG-C850 (4-pin)

Motorcraft
- DYC-162 (5-pin)

Motorola
- 6-60 (5-pin)

NAPA (See Echlin)

Niehoff
- AL401 (5-pin)
- AL403 (4-pin)
- AL403CS (4-pin)

Original Equipment Management
- 7037
- 7096 (4-pin)

Preferred Parts
- M-2020 (4-pin)

Premier Auto Trade (PAT) (Australia)
- MOD-066 (5-pin)

ProForm
- 440-424 “Orange box” (4-pin) (includes wiring harness)
- 440-425 “Blue box” (4-pin) (includes wiring harness)

P&D
- C-1 (5-pin) (Less RPM Limiter)

Regitar
- C411 (4-pin, may have dummy fifth pin)
- C850 (4-pin)

The R/T Garage
- REV-N-NATOR (4-pin) (Adjustable rev limiter)

Sierra Marine
- CR109 (4-pin)

Sierra Supply
- 18-5105 (5 pin) (replaces 3874020)

Sorensen
- CE24 (Pulsemaker) (4-pin)

SOSMetal
- 122101 (4-pin)

Standard Motor Products, Elextron
- LX100 (5-pin)
- LX101 (4-pin)
- LX101T (4-pin)

Switches (Kidde, Federal Mogul)
- 400020 (5-pin)
- 400040 (4-pin)

TMR
- IG-C411 (4-pin)

Transpo
- CM850 (4-pin)
- CM900 (5-pin, dummy fifth pin)

Tridon (Australia)
- TIM024 (5-pin)

Trust
- PT315 (4-pin)

Tru-Tech (Standard Motor Products)
- LX-101T (4-pin)

United Motor Products
- M411 (4-pin)

WAIglobal
- CM850 (4-pin)
- ICM101 (4-pin)

Wells
- CR100 (5-pin)
- CR1100 (5-pin, carded)
- CR109 (4-pin)
- CR1109 (4-pin, carded)
- CR114 (4-pin, with a dummy fifth pin)
- 551562 or 55-1562 (4-pin)
- 551563 or 55-1563 (4-pin)
- 551564 or 55-1564 (4-pin)

White Motor Company (OEM user)
- 31-2759157 (5-pin)

WVE (Wells Vehicle Electronics)
- 6H1062 (4-pin)
- 6H1063 (4-pin)
- 6H1064 (4-pin, possibly with dummy fifth pin)

Click to expand...
1972

Engine Speed Limited

Where all the factory Chrysler part # ECUs Engine Speed Limited ?

Was always curious on those RPM limitations that we all seem to talk about

4111850 when they went to a 4 - Pin to replace or superceded everything previous and RPMs
 
bee1971 said:
1972

Engine Speed Limited

Where all the factory Chrysler part # ECUs Engine Speed Limited ?

Was always curious on those RPM limitations that we all seem to talk about

4111850 when they went to a 4 - Pin to replace or superceded everything previous and RPMs
Click to expand...

Only two ECUs in the 1972 model year as shown in the table were intentionally speed limited.

The red heat sink unit, part number 3656127 limits RPM to 5000-5200 and was used on 400 and 440 high performance manual transmission applications.

The blue heat sink unit, part number 3656128 limits RPM to 5300-5500 and was used on 340 manual transmission applications.

The intentional limits were dropped in 1973. However, all ECUs are limited based on the electronic component parameters used, similar to point ignition contact points float or bounce limitations when the RPM exceeds those parameters.

Chrysler generally, and potentially conservatively in some cases, rated other production ECUs, including 4111850, as good to 5500 RPM or 6000 RPM depending on the coil and ballast resistor used, as well as the application itself.
 
Last edited:
Pick up a few modules, so this way there is a chance you won't need the extras. Lol, that's how luck is sometimes.
 
Vaanth said:
Thank you too. The items I have posted are excerpts from a document I am building that I will eventually fully post alongside my Thermo-Quad information, plus other documents. Finding time for writing it comprehensively is an issue, so the progress is slow.




A few spares of NOS well made parts, or even known good used, old well made parts is not a bad idea. I've actually had only a few original Chrysler electronic ignition parts really fail over the last 50 years, as well as few well made old aftermarket electronic ignition parts. Most Chrysler electronic ignition issues have been connection corrosion, the old potting compound breakdown, or previous "mechanics". I do have a few spares though for possible replacement if needed, or module tuning (NOS or good used pulled from junk cars):
View attachment 1716430718

The potting compound issue is often fixable, but messy and tedious to remove and clean up the old potting compound from the module and where it might have leaked.
View attachment 1716430730


The ECU in the following images has been in use for 40 years. I converted a 1977 Lean Burn car to regular electronic ignition in 1986 with used parts and wiring, before Chrysler documented how to do it. The original Lean Burn was still working fine, but I didn't want it. I wired the system back then for the dual ballast resistor to be able to use either type module. The 4111850 module I used has been losing its potting compound for a while, but still works fine. I'm refurbishing the car now, so it will finally get cleaned up.
View attachment 1716430719
View attachment 1716430720
Click to expand...
I would imagine corrosion or extreme heat cycles is what might kill most modules, and not just the Mopar stuff.
 
Back in the Stone Age , I am sure that potting material was about as good as

Now I would just clean them up

Non - Conductive Spray Dielectric and call it a day
 
bee1971 said:
Some great information in this thread that I have not read before


Thank You !!!
Click to expand...
Except most of it is no longer applicable. THERE ARE NO current production old school modules, and the ones you might find have aged components and such, and may just not act like they "should."

Frankly if you need the last bit of performance out of a system, I'd go with something more modern, and believe me, I am not a guy who likes spending money on such. I have no plans, AKA, to buy an MSD
 
Frankly what someone needs to do is pick "the best" old school module, FIND a couple and do a destructive autopsy, and then "remake" them with modern components. Then possible leave a removable cover so they can be repaired/ components replaced
 
67Dart273 said:
Frankly what someone needs to do is pick "the best" old school module, FIND a couple and do a destructive autopsy, and then "remake" them with modern components. Then possible leave a removable cover so they can be repaired/ components replaced
Click to expand...
It's on my to-do list, after single field voltage regulators.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

lordoffrisco
Swing me! A 1969 Dart Swinger 340 4speed in Austria, Europe
Replies
15
Views
3K
KosmicKuda
KosmicKuda
girl friday
74 Dart Swing How to install backseat seat belts?
Replies
0
Views
469
girl friday
girl friday
M
[FOR SALE] 1963-64 Dodge Dart Deck Lid
Replies
1
Views
71
JDMopar
JDMopar
6
[WANTED] 1963 Dart Sheetmetal
Replies
6
Views
105
M.Kocan
M
F
[FOR SALE] 1972 Dodge Demon/Dart Plymouth Duster Used 3 Speed Wiper Motor 3431532
Replies
0
Views
82
fk5bird
F
Back
Top Bottom