Kathleen massar
Active Member
Hi, I don't know cars so please go easy on me. My husband's 74 duster needs a "tune up" as he keeps saying. I want to get the things he needs but have literally no clue what they are, please help!
74 dart tune up
- Thread starter Kathleen massar
- Start date
-
OK usually a basic is plugs, cap and rotor, PCV valve and a fuel filter. Also a oil change I do if it is due. Thats a mininum. Really depends on what it needs COULD be wires etc.
Kathleen massar
Active Member
I'm sorry, can you dumb this down for me, can I just go in auto parts store and ask for these things. Thank you
Call me fast I will message you my phome number.
Hoppy will get you fixed up Kathleen. He is tops.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Since these girls are so old, I would endeaver to do a thorough diagnostic and tuneup to "look" for potential problems.
1...I don't usually recommend them, but if you are somewhat of a beginner, a Chiltons or other manual might be helpful. You will likely have to scare one up on ebay or online, as I doubt the parts stores carry them "that old." These manuals have info in them more for DIY that the service manuals don't, although the service manuals are far more in depth technically
2...I would CERTAINLY get a factory service manual if you don't have. I have one in digital, but it's too large to email. If you want to send me a return mailer with a USB stick I can send you a copy. They are many MB in pdf
3...I would run a compression check. Normally, Oh'Reallys Auto and others have a loan/ rent program for popular tools such as compression tester if you don't have
4....You will need a timing light if you don't have
5....Generally, run compression or leak down check to see what the condition of the engine is. If you drive/ have driven it much, "some idea" of oil smoking, or oil consumption will help give you an idea
6..,..I would give the engine a good once over, inspecting all hoses for condition, etc. Personally, I would do an ignition tune up and "keep in mind" that you may very well need to clean the carb which you can do later. Inspect the air filter and if any question, replace. If the PCV valve has not been replaced, that is a good idea, and they are not expensive. It plugs into a grommet in the top of the valve cover connected with a hose.
7....Ignition I would plan on a very thorough inspection. it might be the distributor is worn or has ingressed moisture and rusted. Inspect the shaft for wobble. If at all possible, try to inspect (with timing light) to see if the mechanical (centrifugal) advance in the dist. is working. Attempt to determine if the vacuum advance is working.
If the plug wires age and condtion are in any question, I would just replace them. You can check them with an ohmeter for continuity, but this does not test for high voltage leakage from the inner wire through the outside insulation. Inspect dist. cap and rotor for dirt, moisture, grease, wear, etc. Since "the slant" dist is so low, it is subject to road splash, etc. So if it is quite dirty "baked on" or caked on dirt and grim, just replace it.
Spark plus yeh, just either pull one and if they look normal, ask for same type or ask for by application at the store. It might be well to look them up by application online.
I would NOT necessarily set timing "by the" sticker under the hood. That is for smog settings, and I would advance it at least 5 degrees. You don't want to go too far, as of course it can over-advance.
The carb is a whole nother matter. Again, I would go through the above, get it running as well as possible, and then worry whether the carb seems to need work. But after getting the ignition system in shape, you at least need to warm it up, and try to set idle mixture. This is where the service manual helps as there are drawings and photos that help. The "quick" adjustments are idle speed and idle mixture. Generally, these run "too lean" so if you are not in a "smog certify" area of your state, I would certainly back the mixture screw out and try to obtain a smoother idle. You want to do this when fully warm, idling, and adjust CCW for highest RPM or vacuum, and then CW just a touch so it "does not quite slow down" in RPM. This is an "Acquired" taste LOL The "peak" on a smogger engine is usually not as pronounced as the older cars, so you need to do this a couple times to "feel" for where you are.
1...I don't usually recommend them, but if you are somewhat of a beginner, a Chiltons or other manual might be helpful. You will likely have to scare one up on ebay or online, as I doubt the parts stores carry them "that old." These manuals have info in them more for DIY that the service manuals don't, although the service manuals are far more in depth technically
2...I would CERTAINLY get a factory service manual if you don't have. I have one in digital, but it's too large to email. If you want to send me a return mailer with a USB stick I can send you a copy. They are many MB in pdf
3...I would run a compression check. Normally, Oh'Reallys Auto and others have a loan/ rent program for popular tools such as compression tester if you don't have
4....You will need a timing light if you don't have
5....Generally, run compression or leak down check to see what the condition of the engine is. If you drive/ have driven it much, "some idea" of oil smoking, or oil consumption will help give you an idea
6..,..I would give the engine a good once over, inspecting all hoses for condition, etc. Personally, I would do an ignition tune up and "keep in mind" that you may very well need to clean the carb which you can do later. Inspect the air filter and if any question, replace. If the PCV valve has not been replaced, that is a good idea, and they are not expensive. It plugs into a grommet in the top of the valve cover connected with a hose.
7....Ignition I would plan on a very thorough inspection. it might be the distributor is worn or has ingressed moisture and rusted. Inspect the shaft for wobble. If at all possible, try to inspect (with timing light) to see if the mechanical (centrifugal) advance in the dist. is working. Attempt to determine if the vacuum advance is working.
If the plug wires age and condtion are in any question, I would just replace them. You can check them with an ohmeter for continuity, but this does not test for high voltage leakage from the inner wire through the outside insulation. Inspect dist. cap and rotor for dirt, moisture, grease, wear, etc. Since "the slant" dist is so low, it is subject to road splash, etc. So if it is quite dirty "baked on" or caked on dirt and grim, just replace it.
Spark plus yeh, just either pull one and if they look normal, ask for same type or ask for by application at the store. It might be well to look them up by application online.
I would NOT necessarily set timing "by the" sticker under the hood. That is for smog settings, and I would advance it at least 5 degrees. You don't want to go too far, as of course it can over-advance.
The carb is a whole nother matter. Again, I would go through the above, get it running as well as possible, and then worry whether the carb seems to need work. But after getting the ignition system in shape, you at least need to warm it up, and try to set idle mixture. This is where the service manual helps as there are drawings and photos that help. The "quick" adjustments are idle speed and idle mixture. Generally, these run "too lean" so if you are not in a "smog certify" area of your state, I would certainly back the mixture screw out and try to obtain a smoother idle. You want to do this when fully warm, idling, and adjust CCW for highest RPM or vacuum, and then CW just a touch so it "does not quite slow down" in RPM. This is an "Acquired" taste LOL The "peak" on a smogger engine is usually not as pronounced as the older cars, so you need to do this a couple times to "feel" for where you are.
-
