74 scamp, no turn signals. All other lights work.

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Rusty nails

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This car has wiring gremlins. No hazard lights or turn signals. I have replaced the turn signal flasher but I'm having trouble locating a replacement hazard flasher. I still have the old one. I have also replaced the turn signal switch. 318, automatic car, column shift.. Any pics of what the harness should look like would be greatly appreciated. Thanks .
 
Welcome aboard! www.mymopar.com has the wiring schematics tho reportedly in some instances they might be missing a circuit here and there but I've been satisfied so far. Jumper the flasher on the bench & see if it operates. I'd start by going behind the kick panel on the dr side & jump fire to the large filaments rearward (they are the same for the turn signals and the flashers), the large filaments in the 1157 bulbs. that'd be a start. Have the flashers off when checking the turn signals. that'll get ya started
 
Thank you for the schematic!! It will come in handy, I need to remove the whole harness and retape it and clean it up. I have gotten them working since the post. They had no power to the fuse block, so I have put power to the fuse and they work. Now I gotta move on to the motor swap. So thank you again I appreciate it !
 
So I re taped all of the harness and that was it. I now have no power in the car. The only hot wire I have is the one for the alternator, the amp gauge doesn't move it all. It's all the way to the left I'm thinking it went haywire. Does that amp meter control power to the dash, lights, turn signals and stuff like that?
 
I answered in your other thread. It would be good to continue on here so things don't become confused

67Dart273 said:
The ammeter "all the way" is not good. Either you have a short, or the ammeter is stuck. You probably blew up the fuse link (Some later cars have more than one fuse link)

So some basics. WHAT ARE we workin on? Year make model?

Do you have the proper factory service manual?

If not, go to MyMopar and download one

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

While you are on that page, hit

"wiring electrical diagrams" and download one of the aftermarket diagrams posted. These are often not as complete as the service manual, but they are sometimes easier to follow
Click to expand...

Now that we know you have a 74, the latest shop manual over at MyMopar is the 73, "which will be close" It will NOT have the seat belt interlock wiring

Also I will tell you, that since there is no 74 manual to download (that we know of) you need to get "on the air" and buy one, either a used original, a paper reprint, or "on CD"
 
Well I'd figure out WHY the "whut ya got" now is AFU first. If the ammeter is stuck then deal with that. But get power back FIRST

Look out in the engine bay at the bulkhead connector and start relay. Identify the fuse links which almost always have a molded "tab" on them for ID. See if you have power at both ends

"Rig" a way to get up to the ammeter. See if you have power on both sides of the ammeter.

Get into the back of the fuse panel. One of the brass busses in there should be hot at all times, the other one hot with key on.

Disconnect the bulkhead connector and examine the terminals, for melt damage, damage, corrosion, looseness, etc.
 
I have power at the fuse link. I have power at the bulk head connector. And I have power to the ammeter. But no power anywhere else. That ammeter controls the power to the rest of the car correct?
 
Rusty nails said:
I have power at the fuse link. I have power at the bulk head connector. And I have power to the ammeter. But no power anywhere else. That ammeter controls the power to the rest of the car correct?
Click to expand...
As built, everything goes thru the Amp meter. Simple to bypass, just put both wires on the one side, or bolt them together, with a small stove bolt, and insulate it well.

EDIT: both wires on the amp meter. Tie them together. You might have other problems, like a dead short to ground. Have a Volt ohm meter?
 
But they will spark of I tie them together? I'm not following... Sorry electrical work is a weak point for me, might have to break it down Barney style.
 
Rusty nails said:
But they will spark of I tie them together? I'm not following... Sorry electrical work is a weak point for me, might have to break it down Barney style.
Click to expand...
If they spark when you tie them together, you have a problem. disconnect the positive battery cable, then tie the two wires at amp gauge together, then use volt ohm meter to check for continuity from the positive battery cable and ground. should be no continuity, if there is, no not connect battery cable till you find the short. otherwise, connect the positive batt. cable and see if problem is resolved. If a hard spark, do not connect, check for short. the amp. gauge does not have a positive and a ground connection, voltage/ amperage goes thru the gauge, and reads the amperage across the two connections.
 
There are 2 posts that stick out of the back of the volt meter gauge. The wires are held on with a 3/8 nut on each that's what sparks , is that what you are referring to when you say tie them together?
 
Rusty nails said:
I had power to everything and it worked properly before I took it out
Click to expand...

What is "it?"

The ammeter works like a piece of wire. The current goes through it, it is not grounded

The red and black wires are both hot, eventually, the black ends up at the alternator stud, and the red comes from the battery. The ammeter might be AFU. If you can't do anything else "for now" bolt the two (red and black) together and tape them up safely
 
Rusty nails said:
There are 2 posts that stick out of the back of the volt meter gauge. The wires are held on with a 3/8 nut on each that's what sparks , is that what you are referring to when you say tie them together?
Click to expand...
yes, if they spark you have a short to ground somewhere, you will need to find it. You said volt meter gauge. is it a volt meter gauge or a Amperage meter gauge? they ARE different.
 
THAT could have been an "enlightening" situation
 
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