'75 Duster rewiring - opinions on direction?

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SalC

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Hi all,

I have a '75 Duster which originally had a 318, the guy that owned it before me modified it quite a bit putting in a 426 wedge, manual shift automatic, big gear, etc. He moved pretty much all of the engine bay wiring and electrical components under the dash (coil, MSD box, starter relay, etc) and the battery to trunk. Problem is he wasn't very organized or astute electrically. Is was a rat's nest to say the least (see pics). Wire nutted everything and in some cases just taped the connections. Had no sense of wire colors (some hot's were white wires and even some grounds were white - Yikes!) Since it's a 1975 it did have crap I don't want or need anymore like seatbelt command module, etc.

So my objective is to rebuild it the right way. None of the dash panel gauges worked so I'm probably just going to install new aftermarket type gauges, I'm not looking to have a stock car. This is more of a street / drag car.

I've completed the "surgery" and need to rebuild it electrically. Some notables and questions are:
1) Since I'm not after a "stock" look should I start with a generic type harness rather than a replacement?
2) The key switch in the column doesn't work, he had a push button starter switch along with a kill switch. His setup was primitive but I'm cool with a start button panel with accessory switches.
3) Since it will be streetable I'll still need functional lights, tail lights, turn signals, etc.
4) Not concerned about a radio or wipers.
5) Adding a B&M ratchet shifter for drag strip so removing the old center console and associated stuff.
6) Want to keep the engine bay like it is, very little wiring (only distributor and alternator).
7) Want to keep the battery in the trunk. Has a battery kill switch already.

To me the most economical route is a generic type harness like EZ Wiring or Painless? I'm pretty good electrically so I'm pretty confident I'm not over my skis on this one.

Opinions?

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the painless kit took me about a weekend to do from front to back. I purchased a lot of new connectors to keep from using the old ones..so there was about another 50-100 on top of the kit for connectors, and not all wires are included in the kit.
 
Cheapest and easiest thing to do is plug in a factory harness to make all of your standard connections (lights, wipers, whatever factory gauges you intend to use, heater, etc) and then create a sub harness for all of the aftermarket stuff.
You'll be miles ahead when it comes to troubleshooting future problems.
I have a very nice 73 Harness, which is much simpler than the 74-up one, and can handle all of the cars stock systems.
$150 plus shipping if you're interested.
 
Hi SalC,
If you are looking to use relays, Coach Controls makes nice wiring kits that have relays for most circuits built into the fuse box. Here is a FABO thread on this.

Coach Controls Wiring Harness?

I bought one for my son and I's duster project, but aren't to the point yet where wiring can be done.

Travis
 
Not a surprise but this project has turned into a can of worms, not just electrically. The car had the key ignition switch bypassed, he used a push button and a kill switch because the key lock was stripped. I took the steering wheel off and removed the turn signal switch and ignition switch out, ordered new ones. Also bought a new key lock. So I'm going to rebuild it all and go back to original stock key switch to start the car.

While it's all apart I'm replacing all the gauges since they weren't functional and went with Speedhut gauges including GPS speedometer. Putting in a new ratchet shifter so I won't miss a gear when I run it at the dragstrip (manual shift reverse valve body). While it's all apart I'll soundproof the floor and install new carpet. I went with the EZ Wiring harness, it's inexpensive. I am impressed with the quality of the kit and the labeling of the wires :)

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Not a surprise but this project has turned into a can of worms, not just electrically. The car had the key ignition switch bypassed, he used a push button and a kill switch because the key lock was stripped. I took the steering wheel off and removed the turn signal switch and ignition switch out, ordered new ones. Also bought a new key lock. So I'm going to rebuild it all and go back to original stock key switch to start the car.

While it's all apart I'm replacing all the gauges since they weren't functional and went with Speedhut gauges including GPS speedometer. Putting in a new ratchet shifter so I won't miss a gear when I run it at the dragstrip (manual shift reverse valve body). While it's all apart I'll soundproof the floor and install new carpet. I went with the EZ Wiring harness, it's inexpensive. I am impressed with the quality of the kit and the labeling of the wires :)

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keep us updated - looking good!
 
Not a surprise but this project has turned into a can of worms, not just electrically. The car had the key ignition switch bypassed, he used a push button and a kill switch because the key lock was stripped. I took the steering wheel off and removed the turn signal switch and ignition switch out, ordered new ones. Also bought a new key lock. So I'm going to rebuild it all and go back to original stock key switch to start the car.

Oh how much fun..... Take a nice easy road and enjoy the work... Painless is an OK deal and with a Soldering Iron, some patience, you can make a great retro Wiring Harness.... The Instrument Panel looks nice and clean....

JW

While it's all apart I'm replacing all the gauges since they weren't functional and went with Speedhut gauges including GPS speedometer. Putting in a new ratchet shifter so I won't miss a gear when I run it at the dragstrip (manual shift reverse valve body). While it's all apart I'll soundproof the floor and install new carpet. I went with the EZ Wiring harness, it's inexpensive. I am impressed with the quality of the kit and the labeling of the wires :)

View attachment 1715007405 View attachment 1715007406 View attachment 1715007407 View attachment 1715007408
 
It's a lot of work, to be sure! I have to rewire my car. I just don't trust this old wiring so carefully removed ALL of it. I kept it because I knew some old connectors would have to be reused. Are you going to fix the floors?
 
Nice job. Had to do that also on my Scamp. Had one wire go bad, almost had a fire under the dash. I use a Painless harness. Glad I did it. No worries about bad wires or someones bad wiring.
 
I personally would put in new wire. Not a pre manufactured harness. but pull your own wires. I am the only one doing this but I would eliminate the bulkhead connectors and run everything to a junction box. you build it yourself.
I would love to take on this project and help you, but you are a couple thousand miles away.

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It's a lot of work, to be sure! I have to rewire my car. I just don't trust this old wiring so carefully removed ALL of it. I kept it because I knew some old connectors would have to be reused. Are you going to fix the floors?

Floors - If I were "restoring" it I would, but that would mean a full tear down and lots of metal work. The holes in the floor were actually minor, the previous owner just patched it with sheet metal. It's pretty solid. This will mainly be a strip / street car, just to have a little racing fun with.
 
This can sure has a ton of worms in it. Trying to put the steering column back together but it literally fell apart at the gearbox. I pulled the column out and found there was a pin missing to hold the coupler box on the steering box. Seals are all old and moldy and the bearing should be replaced. Ordered all new stuff.

On the wiring side I ended up buying all new bulb sockets, turn signal switch, start switch & key lock. So far the front is all put back together and wired up - all new. Working on the rear now. A lot of work but will be well worth when I'm done. Shooting for a spring drag strip visit...

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Is that Gauge Bezel from Classic Dash and did you need adapters for the Speed Hut 4.5" gauges to fit the holes?

Nice Work. Looking Good!

Thanks. Looks like the same one. I bought mine from Classic Ind.

The openings for the large gauges are 3 3/8", small gauges are 2 1/16" - all fit perfectly without adapters :)
 
You need to reinforce the dash at the Headlight Switch and the Wiper Switch holes
 
You need to reinforce the dash at the Headlight Switch and the Wiper Switch holes

Yes, you're right. Planning on fender washers in front and back of the headlight switch (it's a big heavy switch). No wipers on this car...
 
Getting very close to testing phase and startup, hopefully this weekend. Just a few wires to finish up. Everything is wrapped neatly, just have to tie wrap it all up out of the way once I'm sure all the testing goes well.

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I like what your doing. Hope to do the same on mine soon! Please let me know how you like the Speedhut gauges.
 
I like what your doing. Hope to do the same on mine soon! Please let me know how you like the Speedhut gauges.
I would consider Whitepunkonitro's harness to get it all up & running/wired then you can cut circuits not needed & plumb in new ones a needed. I have dealt with him & he is a straight up guy (a part got lost in transit/never showed up & he sent me out another one). I did a bare bones 65 dart from scratch & it was a ton of work.
 
I've dealt with him before. I agree he is great to deal with. I don't want a factory harness. Mine works fine. I just know that it is 40 years old and I want to update it.
 
Getting very close to testing phase and startup, hopefully this weekend. Just a few wires to finish up. Everything is wrapped neatly, just have to tie wrap it all up out of the way once I'm sure all the testing goes well.

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Looking good SalC. I have a question for you. Using the EZ Wire harness I see you mounted it close to stock location, do you think there would be enough wire to mount the fuse panel in a custom center console?
Thanks Mike
 
Looking good SalC. I have a question for you. Using the EZ Wire harness I see you mounted it close to stock location, do you think there would be enough wire to mount the fuse panel in a custom center console?
Thanks Mike

Mike,
I was surprised at the length of the wiring in this kit. At the outset I was just planning to splice into the front and rear light harnesses but there was plenty of wire to reach everything. I'm happy to say this 1975 vehicle has no old wiring in it anymore :). To answer your question that would depend on where you mount it. You should have plenty if you mount it forward. Keep in mind the shorter wires in this kit are for anything going into the steering wheel and the dashboard. Regardless you could easily add longer wire wherever you need it.

I give this harness a clear thumbs up, well worth the $185 price. I'm glad I went this route rather than more than double the price of competitors.

Hope this helps...
Sal
 
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