76 Dodge dart wont start

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Ok, first off I have a 1976 Dodge Dart with a 318 that does not get driven very often and will sit for long periods of time. I moved my dart the other day, then a day later tried to fire it up and now it wont start. It acts like its not getting spark but I do see spark when I pull a plug wire. I checked my grounds especially at the ecu they all look good.

I do have a tester and I have tested the ecu, dist and coil all seem to be working according to the instruction sheet that came with the tester.

Should I try replacing the ballast resistor first and then go from there? What are the odds that my gas went bad from sitting for an extended period of time and fouled my plugs? I pulled one and it didnt look horrible, maybe I should replace them anyways. It is a car that does not get driven very often.
 
are you getting gas ? do you see an immediate pump shot down the carb?

bad gas will still burn just not very good
 
73AbodEE said:
are you getting gas ? do you see an immediate pump shot down the carb?

bad gas will still burn just not very good
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Yes I've had my father crank it and pump fuel while I watch it and it is definitely getting gas.
 
What kind of spark do you see, yellow, blue somewhere in between?

Have you looked inside you dist. cap for corrosion?
 
Badsport said:
What kind of spark do you see, yellow, blue somewhere in between?

Have you looked inside you dist. cap for corrosion?
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The spark is blue with some white, I have checked the rotor and under the cap I didnt see any corrosion. The contact points look fairly even and clean.
 
You have gas and good spark, most curious. For grins have you tried dribbling a little gas directly into the carb.

If the plugs aren't fouled it should at least fire.
 
Badsport said:
You have gas and good spark, most curious. For grins have you tried dribbling a little gas directly into the carb.

If the plugs aren't fouled it should at least fire.
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Yes I've tried that also, It acted like it wanted to start once. Then after that it has not tried to start as a matter of fact it acts like its not getting spark(just turns over), which it is getting spark.....
 
If your sure you have spark, and fuel it has to start unless it jumped time. Try holding wide open while cranking for about 5 seconds.
 
Does is seem like its turning over faster than usual? The worst case scenario is the timing chain could have jumped.
 
Problem solved, updated to HEI ignition. It runs great now and fires right up.... I had a early gm module lying around got brave and spliced it in, will add pictures later.
 
Great. Sounds like you used the 4-pin HEI module. I put the 8-pin HEI in my Valiant with the GM coil. For the future, get an in-line spark tester ~$5 at HF. If spark and no fire, I spray starter fluid in the intake. On newer cars, the culprit is often the electric fuel pump in the tank.
 
BillGrissom said:
Great. Sounds like you used the 4-pin HEI module. I put the 8-pin HEI in my Valiant with the GM coil. For the future, get an in-line spark tester ~$5 at HF. If spark and no fire, I spray starter fluid in the intake. On newer cars, the culprit is often the electric fuel pump in the tank.
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I'm not exactly sure what was going on I had spark but no fire, I tried starter fluid and putting gas in the bowls no fire. However the minute I put the 4 pin HEI in there got rid of the Mopar Ignition box it fired right up.

I am 100% sure it wasn't the ballast resistor I used my ohm meter and it tested within range. On the ignition box the grounds looked good but I regrounded it anyways and none of the pins or connectors had corrosion on them. Anyone else had this problem with the ignition box?
 
Yes, I read of many intermittent problems with the Mopar ignition module. Some people claim no problems ever, but most owners keep a spare in the glovebox. Of course, the problem is often not the module, but the wiring and connectors, especially the bulkhead connector.

As you found, intermittent problems are the hardest to resolve. You saw a spark with a plug off, but seemed like no spark later. That is why I recommend an in-line spark tester. My Newport died suddenly last spring, with my wife and daughter in the car, so under pressure. It has a Crane XR700 ignition. Put an in-line tester ($3 Harbor Freight) and no flashes from the neon bulb. Swapped another Crane box I had in the trunk, good flashes and engine fired. I left the tester in-line and drove home.

You changed to an HEI module and it fired right away. Was it actually the module or just from wiggling the wires? If a bulkhead connector problem it will be back. Regardless, keep backup parts and diagnostic tools in the trunk and your life will be simpler.
 
I second this! I also own a 76 dodge dart. I replaced the alternator, starter relay and still my car won't start. i'm thinking maybe my battery juice is out but I keep on charging it and about an hour later it won't turn back on....what else should I look at?
 
olyoung said:
I second this! I also own a 76 dodge dart. I replaced the alternator, starter relay and still my car won't start. i'm thinking maybe my battery juice is out but I keep on charging it and about an hour later it won't turn back on....what else should I look at?
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Have you checked to see if you have fuel going to the carb? just found on my 76 that the rubber line from the tank to the hard line was bad and giving it issues starting.
 
olyoung said:
I second this! I also own a 76 dodge dart. I replaced the alternator, starter relay and still my car won't start. i'm thinking maybe my battery juice is out but I keep on charging it and about an hour later it won't turn back on....what else should I look at?
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olyoung,
You need to describe symptoms better. What does "it won't turn back on" mean? You haven't told us if the engine is turning over and not firing or not even turning over. If the later, do your hear a clunk from the stater solenoid? Does your dome light dim while trying to crank? You may need a multimeter ($6 or free).
 
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