8 3/4 axels???

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tyler_s18

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i need some 8 3/4 axels. there are some mosers on epay that are at 91 and they end in 30 min lol. anyone have a better deal? they need to be a body length. these need bearings so i will probably go green lol
 
i need some 8 3/4 axels. there are some mosers on epay that are at 91 and they end in 30 min lol. anyone have a better deal? they need to be a body length. these need bearings so i will probably go green lol


those are factory axles redrilled by moser.
 
Tyler with the horsepower you're puttin down spend the money and get a good quality set of aftermarket axles like Moser, Strange or maybe Yukon. You can buy them with the bearings already installed. An axle breaking on launch usually does not end well. Your parts will ship tomorrow, thanks.
 
i lost on those. those yukons look good but more money. good price but still more. i will get a housing first then go from there
 
Tyler research any axles you find real good to make sure they'll work without modifications. I recently went through this and found almost all aftermarket axles won't just bolt right in without some modification(s).
 
Green bearings suck for a street car. They don't handle sideload very well.Less drag for racing, but on a street car they will not last long.
 
well i lost out on the axels and housing so im back to square one it sucks. if someone has a housing please let me know
 
any housing wider then a A body will work, you can have it narrowed.

and some new axles, and you'll be set

BTW moser will narrow the housing too
 
not to steal the thread but i have a slant in my 68 dart (street,strip) thats at 200hp soon to be more like 300hp, also redoing the stock 904 with 4200 stall and manual valve body. so i have an 8.75 741 case 3.91 gear set up, just need axles and 742 case. so my questions are
what axles/bearing do i need for my hp and conditions
also do the posi's swap from a 741 to a 742,489??

thx guys
 
any housing wider then a A body will work, you can have it narrowed.

and some new axles, and you'll be set

BTW moser will narrow the housing too

ya its just more expensive lol. i am looking for a stock setup perferably. i have access to a 3.23 sure grip chunk so im good there and have the brakes from my 8 1/4 or could get a housing with brakes
 
ya its just more expensive lol. i am looking for a stock setup perferably. i have access to a 3.23 sure grip chunk so im good there and have the brakes from my 8 1/4 or could get a housing with brakes


somethings are not going to be cheap.


although, my Valiant had a B body rear in it, when I bought it :D

*hint hint*
 
ya lol that is what i am really looking for lol i think i will make a few calls tommorow and see what i can find
 
you'll have to play with back spacing to get it to fit right, and move the perches.

I won't tell you what they did to get it in my car, but it pulled to the right when she broke loose.
 
i have looked at it some at least. i am not trying to fit monsters under it yet so i will get whatever i can then go from there lol. i actualy have a 8 3/4 but its to wide so if i blow up this rear before i get another then i might just shorten that one
 
i believe you are right. after tapered axels and before the 70s i think. thats what i was told at least lol. i dont think tapered axels would matter personaly
 
what are tapered axels? i just figured they were the ones you couldnt respline so if the length works then they should work to??? or is it something else lol
 
Valiant422 doesn't it need to be like a 66-67 or 68 B-body to work? I thought they got wider sometime in the late late 60's or 70.

perches up till 70 were only a inch further apart. 71 and later 8.75's in B's are hard to find and wouldn't work.

from 70 back the over all length changed, and if I remember right the B rear that was in my V100 was from a 66 B body.

OP if the shaft is tapered, or "necked" down, when you go to shorten the axle, there isn't enough "meat" in the shaft to make the splines.

Trucks, and wagons are the safest bet, but it is still a bet.
 
:toothy10: OK Tyler, I guess I should cloud the issue with more confusing information.
First: What case do you really have? A 741, 742, or 489? Read the last three numbers located along the bottom of the chunk on the passenger side.
Second: If you have a 741, don't worry. If you are not going to shock it with slicks, a trans brake or stick shift or a bunch of horsepower, properly set up, it should do the job. The tallest gear "off the shelf" is a 3.91. Precision Gear would cut a taller number on request.
Third: If you buy a used housing, have it checked for straightness. Have used axles checked too. Now, that said, for what people are asking for OEM axles and housings, it's hard to beat a new setup from people like Moser, Yukon or Strange. Moser even had an actual Mopar owner working the phone!
Fourth: All 8 3/4 posi units will interchange
Last: I'll keep an eye on those "nasty" green bearings. Mine have been in my street rod for only ten years........................:cheers: RICK
 
I have 4 (four) used, 5-on 4" A-body axles, two of which were pulled out of an A-Body in a junkyard. The other 2 are from my personal car. They all have the OEM bearings still pressed on them. I think these are all 1970 vintage...

I can't guarantee the quality of the bearings, but they all feel smooth when rotated with some pressure against them... and, mine were quiet when I replaced them with Moser units. ($500.00-a-pair)

Can somebody tell me what they are worth? I don't buy and sell much... have no clue....

Any information will be appreciated.

Thanks...8)
 
not to steal the thread but i have a slant in my 68 dart (street,strip) thats at 200hp soon to be more like 300hp, also redoing the stock 904 with 4200 stall and manual valve body. so i have an 8.75 741 case 3.91 gear set up, just need axles and 742 case. so my questions are
what axles/bearing do i need for my hp and conditions
also do the posi's swap from a 741 to a 742,489??

thx guys

very unlikely you,ll break that 741 with 300 horse unless youre launching off a transbrake with big slicks
 
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