8 3/4 axels???
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racerbob
Well-Known Member
A 741 case sure grip can live behind a 300 hp setup pretty well .
I have a 741 case with 3.91 gears that started out life in an early sixties A-100 van behind a 6 cylinder three speed. Then after 100,000 + miles is was rescued from the scrap yard had a sure grip from another scrap yard victim (72 challenger I think?) installed in it. We then put it behind a 1970 RT charger with a built 440 hp engine. Afetr a year or so of driving and street racing it was removed and installed in a 383 poered 1966 Coronet, two years and many miles later the third member was removed and sat on a bench until I bought it a put it in my 1967 barracuda with a 340 engine. It saw about 6 months (10,000 miles) of use in my cuda, then was removed and sat on the bench for several years. It was installed in my 1973 dart sport 340 , which is used as a race car and raced every weekend from march through november (about 150-170 runs per year in a low 12 second car). After two seasons of that I have replaced it with a 742 case 4.10 chunk.
The point I am trying to convey here is: a 8.75" 741 case maybe weaker than a 742 or 489, but it is much stronger than most rears (including anything that came in chevy ). Only rears that came in muscle cars that are stronger are a Dana 60 or a Ford 9". That third member should hold well behind a 300 hp engine!!
Bob
racerbob
Well-Known Member
To answer the other questions
All of the posi units interchange, the one in my 741 case came from a 489 case housing.
You can use stock axles up to a 400 hp car with no problem. I like the green bearings , use them on a my race car and will probably use them on my street car (and hope I get to drive enough to wear them out!!).
Bob
All of the posi units interchange, the one in my 741 case came from a 489 case housing.
You can use stock axles up to a 400 hp car with no problem. I like the green bearings , use them on a my race car and will probably use them on my street car (and hope I get to drive enough to wear them out!!).
Bob
stroked 340
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sweet thank youi would but they are expensive lol
Do yourself and your car a favor and buy good/quality axles and components for your rear it'll be well worth the money spent..don't be cheap it cost money to go fast...Moser axles are worth every penny:-D:-D
Tyler, call Cass aka DrDiff, he can get you a pair of aftermarket axles with bearings and studs for $300. Those axles on e-bay don't have bearings and that stuff will add up. Whether you spend 200 or 500 on axles, they don't make a difference at your performance level. The axles Cass sells have had 600+ through them on slicks and transbrakes.
741 cases get a bad wrap because somebody chose to write a column in that fashion. Run it and you'll be fine. If you are running an OD trans, that will likely go first when killing it of the line.
Look for a 66-67 B as your first choice, then 68-70 B rear as a replacement that doesn't need to be narrowed. More wheel backspace would be required as they are about 1-1.5" longer on each side.
If you are ever down this way and have a nice 8.75 housing/rear to trade, I'd trade you straight up for a 68-70 rear. I don't care what your axle assembly is out of, I'd shorten it anyways. Crusty rusty stuff, I'm not fond of... that's the only caveat.
I believe that Fords run around on the green style bearings and have for many years. It's another of those things that a certain person spouts in a magazine atrticle, like you can't run FMJ spindles on A's, that becomes urban legend. Like anything, they wear with use. I've had the standard tapered bearings eat themself, doesn't make me shy away from them.
741 cases get a bad wrap because somebody chose to write a column in that fashion. Run it and you'll be fine. If you are running an OD trans, that will likely go first when killing it of the line.
Look for a 66-67 B as your first choice, then 68-70 B rear as a replacement that doesn't need to be narrowed. More wheel backspace would be required as they are about 1-1.5" longer on each side.
If you are ever down this way and have a nice 8.75 housing/rear to trade, I'd trade you straight up for a 68-70 rear. I don't care what your axle assembly is out of, I'd shorten it anyways. Crusty rusty stuff, I'm not fond of... that's the only caveat.
I believe that Fords run around on the green style bearings and have for many years. It's another of those things that a certain person spouts in a magazine atrticle, like you can't run FMJ spindles on A's, that becomes urban legend. Like anything, they wear with use. I've had the standard tapered bearings eat themself, doesn't make me shy away from them.
furz4
Well-Known Member
You can use axles from a big C body and have them shortened and resplined. Would be alot safter then re-drilled if you are putting down alot of power. Also don't forget about your brakes. The offset on the axle flange is different from stansdard A body 8 3/4 to allow for those narrow brakes. I think you can get aftermarket done both ways. I am using C body axles shortend and resplined along with the brakes.
needsaresto
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needsaresto
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Yes,as long as the axles are from an 8 3/4. The more common 91/4 axles wont work.
Im saving up my beans for the good stuff.You should too if your dealing with more than 600 h.p
tyler_s18
k-member
let me see about a housing first. youra are a body length? and bbp? if so i will probably take them
Valiant422
Banned
you know this first hand? or you read it somewhere?
combined 100K and over 12 years on 2 cars.
I don't believe much of what I read,but I know bearings very well. I have been working with them for over 20 years.If you read the technical data and failure rates of tapered and ball bearings you will find that in this application the tapered bearing is far more durable.I have discused this with my driveline guy, who has been a Mopar driveline specialist for many years, and he agrees with me. It seems I have offended some and that was not my intention. I do not wish to debate this nor do I wish to dispute the success others have had with with the green bearings. I apologize and will choose my words more carefully in the future.
No reason to apologize.
No doubt the tapered bearings are more durable. E-booger has mentioned the same thing re: durability. Yet, there are lots of greens running around, including fords, and I don't see them dead all over the place on the road with smoking rear axles from bearing failure.
If I was building a road course or roundy-round I'd run the tapered if they were right.
It all a choice we make to make our cars run.
HEMIRAM
Well-Known Member
The axles are small bolt pattern. I have a housing too but it would be expensive to ship I would sell it all for $250.00 plus shipping.
8.75 housings are cheap to ship because they don't really weigh much. Might be $50 to send it via fedex ground and even less using greyhound. Housing and axles probably weigh in at about 75-80 lbs. Not a big deal to ship that
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
Look for an earlier b body housing, It will measure 59 1/2" from wheel flange to wheel flange(where the wheel bolts on) then move the spring perches in 1/2" on both sides,it will measure 44 inches to center before you move the perches and 43" when you are done. then just get 8" wheel's with 5" backspacing and it will fit right under your car,Redhot just did this swap to his 67 dart gt and I have done it to my duster.I paid 100$ off of e bay for my rear and it was complete with 2:94 new wheel cylinders brake shoes and hardware installed!!!
tyler_s18
k-member
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=&sspagename=STRK:MEBIDX:IT#ht_500wt_1182
why is this goin so cheap and no one is bidding lol? the round part on the back looks different then most 8 3/4s but idk if that would matter. i could make a new of that part if i need to but will this work lol?
why is this goin so cheap and no one is bidding lol? the round part on the back looks different then most 8 3/4s but idk if that would matter. i could make a new of that part if i need to but will this work lol?
varlo
Joe- Long Island, Oakdale
Im guessing thats what he charges to narrow them? I dont know i dont mean to jack threads or anything but this is weird that me and you (tyler) both have 75 scamps are about to do the same things to them. I have a 8.75 a body housing with a 741 suregrip and 391's but need brakes and axels. I am considering going through doctor diff but still debating with all these ideas and opinions flying around on this thread.
scuba0331
Well-Known Member
I saw this guy on Ebay a few times as well. Seems almost to good to be true!
I bought a 1966 B-Body housing a year ago. So I am doing exactly as was recommended by Wagon. My rearend came with a 3:23 suregrip. I am going install green bearings and seals (I bought the Maxi Kit from Dr. Diff for $85), move the perches in, clean,prime and paint. I should be good to go!
Maybe that is the approach you may want to consider as well.
Good Luck.
tyler_s18
k-member
well you are more then welcome to ask away on here chances are i will use the knowledge to lol yours looks a lil better then mine lol
ya it seems pretty good. if i win and its just to shorten them i will talk to him cuz that is not what is represented. i will also email him and see. i would like to get a b body rear but i cant find them on ebay and even being more common they are not very common around here
yours looks a lil better then mine lolya it seems pretty good. if i win and its just to shorten them i will talk to him cuz that is not what is represented. i will also email him and see. i would like to get a b body rear but i cant find them on ebay and even being more common they are not very common around here
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
The axle housing pictured on the E-bay auction is a Ford 9" not a Mopar 8-3/4. Maybe he just uses a generic picture?? As far as the price to get a housing narrowed it ranges from $175 to 300 depending on where you are. Also make sure you don't have to supply a housing core. If no core is required then $200 for a housing is a great deal. But remember that's just a housing. You still need axles, brakes, 3rd member, etc.
I haven't tried it but I hear the brake backing plates are the same bolt pattern on a 8-1/4 as a 8-3/4 and Dana so the backing plates will bolt to any housing. The only thing I question is will the drums work also? If the axles on the 8-3/4 stick out more or less or the register size is different it would be a problem using the drums.
I see there is a bid on it now for $170. Alot of guys don't bid until the last minute in an effort to get it cheaper.
I haven't tried it but I hear the brake backing plates are the same bolt pattern on a 8-1/4 as a 8-3/4 and Dana so the backing plates will bolt to any housing. The only thing I question is will the drums work also? If the axles on the 8-3/4 stick out more or less or the register size is different it would be a problem using the drums.
I see there is a bid on it now for $170. Alot of guys don't bid until the last minute in an effort to get it cheaper.
As long as it's a 5 x 4.5 pattern, the brakes swap from rear to rear, no issue.
8.25, 8.75, 9.25, Dana 60 They all interchange and the drum are specific to the backing plates, so keep them as a unit. Sometimes you have to drill a 5th hole in the backing plate where it mounts to the flange.
8.25, 8.75, 9.25, Dana 60 They all interchange and the drum are specific to the backing plates, so keep them as a unit. Sometimes you have to drill a 5th hole in the backing plate where it mounts to the flange.
tyler_s18
k-member
sweet thank you
so after i get a housing i will need axels, bearings, and a third member complete with yoke and all and that should be it right?- Status
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