8 3/4 Axle leaking

-

AxeMan

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
17
Reaction score
2
Location
Victoria,BC Canada
I noticed gear oil on my breaks,so I took it apart and replaced the seal.When putting it back together I got the end play correct,but there is an 8th of an inch gap!
I have a 489 case,the Thrust block I could was still there, and moving side to side like it's supposed to .Could it be the bearing collar is not close enough to the tapered bearing?

I'm afraid to drive it and ruin another set of break shoes! Any ides??

Cheers

20230727_155634.jpg
 
Stock or aftermarket axles? For the 1/8" gap, where are you seeing this, around the seal to the axle surface? Did you replace the inner seal and backing plate/axle plate seals too?
 
Looks just like a stock taper bearing axle I have

PXL_20230730_171029864.jpg


Funny I have a leak right now but it is coming out between the housing flange and the backing plate outside of the brake area. Just runs down the outside of the backing plate and gets on the tire.
 
Last edited:
Stock or aftermarket axles? For the 1/8" gap, where are you seeing this, around the seal to the axle surface? Did you replace the inner seal and backing plate/axle plate seals too?
Stock axles,the 1/8th gap you can see in the pic.....is that normal? Replaced the inner seal and foam gasket.
 
if this is what you are talking about.

1690740599154.png



looks just like an axle I have.

1690740652586.png


I would say its normal. the axle should not be touching the keeper
 
There are 2 seals. One in the housing for the differential fluid and one on the outside of the bearing for the bearing grease seal.
You also need to make sure the axle housing vent is not plugged. This will cause pressure to build up also causing a seal leak.
 

Attachments

  • 8.75_bearing-seal_diagram.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 64
There are 2 seals. One in the housing for the differential fluid and one on the outside of the bearing for the bearing grease seal.
You also need to make sure the axle housing vent is not plugged. This will cause pressure to build up also causing a seal leak.
All good
 
One of the axels, on a project I recently bought and been going through was leaking. Today I was taking it out to investigate only to find there was no seal, the other side although not leaking was missing the seal as well.
Looking on the bright side, I don't have to mess with getting the bad seals out.
 
Last edited:
There seems to be a misconception about inner seals being needed.

My 8 3/4 was rebuilt by a reputable shop and they did not put inner seals in
 
What would you consider normal? To have the axle grinding up against the bearing retainer?
 
My 8 3/4 was rebuilt by a reputable shop and they did not put inner seals in
I guess if you never drive the car, never park or drive anywhere with a significant slant or drive around corners at speed, that might work...
 
Come to think of it I don't recall and inner seal on the Mopar axels that I've been exposed to that includes 8.25, 8.75 and 9.25., thats not to say they are not supposed to be there, i just dont recall seeing them when recently working on my 2001 van and 70 Duster with the 9.25/8.25. Fast forward to fixing the leaky axel on this 74 Duster with the 8.75.
It has been some time now that I have have replaced the seals and tapered bearings on the 8.75s in a few B bodies that I've owned, I just don't recall seeing or replacing an inner seal and wondered what holds the grease in the bearings...the inner seal.
A quick Google search and a visit to Doctor points me to the tapered bearing kit or the Green bearing kit which I thought maybe I'll upgrade to that, when I took it apart it already has the Green bearings, which are sealed and looking at the parts included in the kit after reading Dana's post, none is required. The bearing is sealed and aside from a little skinny O ring at the outer edge and the foam gasket not much seems to hold the errant differential oil from sloshing out under spirited driving as in Rusty's post.
Long story I know...so is the seal on the bearing which is hard to see as under the pressed on retainer, the outer O ring or the foam gasket which didn't seem to be in good shape when I took it apart. It does look pretty gunky in there, so maybe a good cleaning, a little RTV and new foam gasket, which has always seemed useless to me, so maybe just some RTV under the outer retainer might do the trick?

16920999355968693343473467621203.jpg
 
The shop that assembled my 8 3/4 used Right stuff rather than gaskets.

And it still leaked without the inner seals.

If it was me I would use inner gaskets even if I was using green bearings
 
Cleaned up remenents of paper, foam and silicone. New inner seals, metal gaskets between the housing and backing plates. Foam gasket under the axel retainer plate. All good until torquing the nuts to spec 35 ft lbs...made 9 and the last stud broke
 
That stud must have been almost broken to shear at 35 lbs.

Do not pull the stud in. Press it in from the back side.

It makes me cringe when I see people pull studs in.

It takes maybe 150 ft lbs to pull a stud in that is only rated for 35 to 55. By the time you have pulled it in you have stretched it and it's only a matter of time till failure
 
-
Back
Top