8 3/4 axles 8.75 left and right differences

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duster-z

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I recently bought a 8 3/4 rear end from a challenger that had been rolled at a junk yard and some one took out the center section and one of the axles were gone. i think the one i have is the left one because it does not have the adjuster on it. i also got another axle from some one but it looks like another left one since it does not have the adjuster either. I was wondering is it possible to get a adjuster and put it on one of the axles or do i need to get a different axle that already has the lock plate on it.

Also is there a place to get the lock metal peice that holds the adjuster in place that adjusts the end play.
 
Axles are the same length side to side so yes you can use your other axle if it's the right length (e-body length) by swapping on an adjuster plate. As for where to buy one, used is all I know. They haven't made them for yrs. I have seen a few NOS ones pop up but generally people want a fortune for them so it's cheaper to switch to green bearings. Not sure what you mean by an "adjuster with the lock plate on it"? There's just the adjuster plate and the lock.

BTW: you don't plan on trying to use that E-body rear in your Duster do you? If so their way too wide and the spring perches are farther apart.
 
do you still need the adjuster and lock to bring the axles together with the green bearings?
and the e body rear ends are shoter than b body rear ends and people put them under dusters all the time, and i have some one that is going to move the spring perches in for me.
 
the people i saw using the b body 8 3/4 rear end were using a 71 and it is bigger than the rear end i have and they had pictures of it fitting just fine.
 
You can make a lock by just bendin up a piece of sheet metal, but 10 bucks for an OEM is worth it.
 
E-Body rear is narrower than a B-Body rear. I have a few E-Body sized ones available
 
71-74 B are the only b rears that are longer than an 8.75 e body rear. EVERY other 8.75 B rear is shorter than any 8.75 E rear.

You can use whatever you like, just need to size wheels appropriately.
 
E-Body rear is narrower than a B-Body rear. I have a few E-Body sized ones available

It all depends on what year B-body rearend your talking about like Rob said below. The older B-body rears are narrower than an E-bod rear. Those are the ones most people use in an A-body.

71-74 B are the only b rears that are longer than an 8.75 e body rear. EVERY other 8.75 B rear is shorter than any 8.75 E rear.

You can use whatever you like, just need to size wheels appropriately.
 
do you still need the adjuster and lock to bring the axles together with the green bearings?
and the e body rear ends are shoter than b body rear ends and people put them under dusters all the time, and i have some one that is going to move the spring perches in for me.

No. Using the green bearings eliminates the need for the adjuster/lock setup. That's why a lot of guys like green bearings. If you switch to green bearings you also need to remove the thrust pins (clutch type sure grip), or axle spacer (cone type sure grip) from your sure grip unit.

the people i saw using the b body 8 3/4 rear end were using a 71 and it is bigger than the rear end i have and they had pictures of it fitting just fine.

They must have been using wheels with a bunch of offset cause a E-body rear is 5-5/8" wider than an A-body rear. Your E-bod rear is about 4" wider than a stock a-bod rear so it's do-able if you change your wheels and reposition the perches.
 
I have a bearing adjuster plate and lock tab if you plan on using the stock tapered axle bearings.
Thanks, Mark
 
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