8 3/4 build questions

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Jamakin

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If you were building one from scratch what would be your dream build. Best of the best. Gear ratios excluded of course.

Thinking about building one for my duster and already have a bare housing. Just wondering what parts would be the best to use to make the most solid rear possible.
 
742 (better new gear selection and AL housings available) clutch S/G and green bearings. 3.55 all around driving ratio.

gears not withstanding....489 w/green (or Timkens if you are autocrossing) and aftermarket axles.
 
pishta said:
742 (better new gear selection and AL housings available) clutch S/G and green bearings. 3.55 all around driving ratio.

gears not withstanding....489 w/green (or Timkens if you are autocrossing) and aftermarket axles.
Click to expand...

Make sure you use a solid sleeve if you go with the 489 housing.
 
I'd get rid of the factory housing and get a new Moser unit with their high strength axles with 3" studs and factory style bearings and retainers, billet side adjusters, Detroit Locker sure grip, Richmond gears, aluminum 489 center section due to it's larger pinion, 1350 billet pinion yoke. Just for starters.
 
I guess the real question does it make more sense to just buy something that is already built and brand new? Looking at sites like Dr. Diff and Strange some of the ready to go units don't look like that bad of a deal
 
I guess the other option is also to just gather parts and put it together and then I can upgrade later or once if i blow it up
 
All depends what the car was going to see but.

I would use the AL center like i have in a few SS cars, mikronite the gears, truetrac, ceramic bearings and strange axles, and this is also in a 2 SS cars
 
Assuming this is a street car - whatever center you have. Tru-Trac limited slip. Timken bearings. Whatever gear ratio works for your use. Dr. Diff axles w/large bolt pattern. Green axle bearings.
That will (and has) cover any street, road racing, or mixed duty drag race car up until you get into serious track times.
 
moper said:
Assuming this is a street car - whatever center you have. Tru-Trac limited slip. Timken bearings. Whatever gear ratio works for your use. Dr. Diff axles w/large bolt pattern. Green axle bearings.
That will (and has) cover any street, road racing, or mixed duty drag race car up until you get into serious track times.
Click to expand...


This will mostly be a street car with a couple trips to the track mixed in a year. It will only have a 318 for awhile but I have a 440 that I will be rebuilding and putting in when I save up the cash.

I would like to keep it a 4speed unless I run into problems down the road with the 440.

I would just like to do the best I can with the rearend now so I don't end up wasting money
 
I have gathered the parts for my dream 8.75, and paid dear $$ along the way:

-Original-style housing (not the weird moser 875 "thing" as I call it)
-Eaton tru-trac
-Iron 489 case
-Solid sleeve "crush-sleeve eliminator"
-Brand new gears (NOS 3.23's from 1971)
-Moser alloy race axles w/ green bearinngs
-11x2 B/C-body drums (possibly going to add 91 dakota 13/16" wheel cyl.)

The tru-trac is the one piece I couldn't live without, followed by the 489 solid, then the Moser axles.

The case hasn't been assembled so I'm stuck with 741 open 3.55's at the moment. Really looking forward to the piece of mind of the 489 for the rest of the car's life.

I have always felt that the differential isn't a place to skimp if you beat your car like us Washington Savage's do, but my friends have the luxury of a never-ending amount of 10-bolt chevy's in existence. Good-used-cheap 8.75 cases are getting hard to come by; if they're cheap they're usually toast around here... might as well build a righteous 489 and be done.
 
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