66CudaJeff
Member
I've got my 3rd member apart and found wear on the end of the yoke. Should I file this down and use the yoke or buy a new one?
8 3/4 diff yoke
- Thread starter 66CudaJeff
- Start date
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A little file work on the teeth ends if you want. I’d hit the outside diameter (that the seal rides on) with some Emory cloth at the least. What do the u-joint saddles look like is more important. Run a thread cleaner/restorer in the u-joint strap bolt holes and flush out. That’s what I’d do.
Nothing wrong with what you have there. In my opinion
Nothing wrong with what you have there. In my opinion
66CudaJeff
Member
The joint saddles look fine. Thanks for the advise! Maybe I can save some money after all!!
Are you replacing the pinion gear. That wear is most likely from the bearing race. If the pinion was spinning inside the race. What does the pinion look like?
66CudaJeff
Member
Everything looks ok to me. When I took it apart I found the preload shims were broken. Everything else looks fine to me. This car is new to me since last summer. I drove it once before I bought it but the 3rd member was leaking bad so I removed it to reseal it.
Is it 471, 472 or 489 case
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Sorry, don't mean to insult. You mean, is it a 741, 742, or 489 case.
489 uses a crush sleeve. Op said the shims broke, (and its coarse thread) so likely a 741/742 case.
Edit: I'd clean it up, and reuse it too.
My guess as well.
As long as it is square to the CL of the yoke there should not be any issues.
66CudaJeff
Member
It's a 742 case
If it was me, I would have the end machined flat and square.
Or replace it.
It presses on the bearing/shim and if not flat and square creats pressure points, might be what broke the shims on the first place????
Or replace it.
It presses on the bearing/shim and if not flat and square creats pressure points, might be what broke the shims on the first place????
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