8 3/4 Donor

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BriansDart

BriansDart

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Hey all. I need an 8 3/4 rear for a 1970 Dart Swinger that currently has a 318/904/7 1/4. Been having trouble finding an A-Body 8 3/4 that is not across the country. My question is what options do I have? What are some donor vehicles that I can keep an eye out for? And can B/E body 8 3/4's be modified to fit? If so, does anyone know where? I am in South Jersey. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
BriansDart said:
Hey all. I need an 8 3/4 rear for a 1970 Dart Swinger that currently has a 318/904/7 1/4. Been having trouble finding an A-Body 8 3/4 that is not across the country. My question is what options do I have? What are some donor vehicles that I can keep an eye out for? And can B/E body 8 3/4's be modified to fit? If so, does anyone know where? I am in South Jersey. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Does your car have disc. up front?If not maybe look for a Donar car and do the disc. swap(spindles.uca,proportioning valve) an 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 rear also tranny,engine,rad and wheels.That,s what I did to a 73 Swinger 318 auto.($500)

73 dart special 004.jpg


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No disc brakes, yet. A friend just GAVE me a complete 383 and 727 that has changed my plans. I intended to pull the 318 and replace it with a 360 but you can't beat free. Every 8 3/4 I find for sale is across the country and shipping is outrageous. I wasn't sure if the 8 1/4 would be sufficient. Pretty new at this so I am going to need help.
 
An 8 3/4 can be shipped by UPS if its broke down into 3 boxes, center section, axles and housing. Still will run 120-200 to ship it. Another option is to just build your own 8 3/4, if you get one out of a truck, van, or big C body you can have the axles shortened and re-splined and the housing narrowed. Moser will do this reasonable. Just had one done it was 110 to narrow and 55 to install new spring perches. You can have it done any width you like which allows you to use the larger brakes without giving up tire clearance. Good way to get the large bolt pattern on the rear too if your thiking about converting.
 
That's what I was wondering about. I had heard you could get them shortened but I wasn't positive. I found one listed today from a B-body minus the pumpkin for sale at a reasonable price. With the mods it will work?

I did not know, however, that you can take them from a truck and get it modified to fit. Thanks for the advice.
 
Housings can be shipped really reasonable. Pumpkins and axles are the high priced shipping due to weight.

Greyhound can take a rear and axles pretty inexpensively.

You can shorten any 8.75 to a body width. You'll still need to spend money on axles which will drive the cost up a bit more. By the time you get done buying, shortening, and getting axles for the new rear, you'll be in as much as buying an "A" housing.

I have an A 8.75 rear, axles, backing plates, SG and open pumpkins available. Of course, I'm in California.
 
You can pretty much narrow any housing, if your going to shorten and re-sline axles they have to be straight not the tapered ones. A big C body or truck or van are the best donors for the axles to shorten. You can also buy new axles whatever length you want. Best low buck way would be get a complete unit with the gear ratio you want that also has suitable axles, and that has all the brake hardware and drums intact. I got one out of a new yorker wagon for mine. I am not sure it will be an cheaper when all is said and done but I will end up with what I want. Mine is a 73 so I needed 4.5 bolt pattern, and wanted the bigger brakes. Also I didn't want to give up any tire clearance. If you use a regular A body housing and update the brakes and change the axles you will loose 3/4" tire clearance per side.
 
One option you have is to find a 65-67 b-body rearend. They are a little wider then a stock a-body (like one inch) rear and you get the bigger brakes and the larger bolt pattern. I did have the spring perches moved in 1/2 on both sides (60 dollars). I have a 8 3/4 rear housing for a a-body but I saved a lot of money buying the b-body rear because I wanted the bigger brakes and larger bolt pattern. I bought a complete rear out of a b-body for $150.
 
I agree with crackedback. If you are going to stay with small bolt pattern get a standard A rear. If you are thinking bigger brakes and bolt pattern then I would do the build. You can also re-drill axles and drums to big bolt if needed. Lots of ways to do this. But none are exactly cheap.
 
I am replacing the 318/904 with a 383/727 so a brake upgrade is planned. I would like the big bolt. I am by no means rich but am more concerned with doing things right. I plan on giving this car to my son someday. Around here all the kids like the rice burners and most of the people with old cars drive the C word. I may not be the most mechanically inclined person but at least I am trying to raise my son right.
 
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