8 3/4 is this correct
- Thread starter R4Sedan
- Start date
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That's why they have 5" of splines on the axles. 
James Camp
no mopar
He may have got the tape at HARBOR FRIGHT, i checked a Chinese tape from There against a U.S. made tape, on a 25 ft tape, there was a 1/4 inch difference , so he will be ok with the housing he has....lol
So you think the factory axles were somehow sized for individual housings?
Uh, no. They had tapered bearings, the axle housings weren’t all identical, and the axles still worked for 50 years.
And it’s just as likely the housing isn’t off by that much. It’s a tape measure, not a laser. If it’s sagging a little, at a slight angle, or if the end catch is a little loose there’s your extra.
No! No no no no!
This chart is horrible. It’s full of inaccurate information. There are 5 different width B-body housing. 5.
The A body 8 3/4 is wider than the A-body 7.25’s and 8.25’s by over an inch. That chart is just wrong, and yet people still post that garbage.
There’s a perfectly good list right on this site, stickied in the drivetrain section.
An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Rear Axle
Axle lengths 8 3/4
I'll post the whole 8 3/4" thing again for those who didn't get it the first time:
Mopar 8 3/4" Rear End Dimensions
........................................
........................................
8 3/4" axle shaft lengths measured from the tip of the splined end
to the outside of the flange:
A BODY
'66-'72= 27 11/16"
B BODY
'65-'67= 28 7/8"
'68-'70= 29 3/16"
'71-'74= 30 5/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"
C BODY
'65-'69= 30"
'70-'71= 30 5/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 31 21/64" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL (Large Bolt Pattern)
'65-'66= 30 1/8"
'67-'69= 30 5/16"
'70-'71= 29"
'72-'73= 31 7/16"
E BODY
'70-'74= 29 31/32"
A100
'65-'70= 30"
D100
'65-'71= 31 1/8"
'72-'74= 31 21/64
...........................................
...........................................
Housing widths, flange to flange
A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"
E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"
A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4"
D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"
.........................................
.........................................
Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:
A BODY
'66-'72= 57 1/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 59 1/2"
'68-'70= 60 1/8"
'71-'74= 63"
'71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"
C BODY
'65-'69= 61.75"
'70-'71= 63.0" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 64 3/8" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 61 15/16"
'67-'69= 62 5/16"
'70-'71= 59 3/4"
'72-'73= 64 9/16"
E BODY
'70-'74= 61 5/8"
A100
'65-'70= 61 3/4"
D100
'65-'71= 63 15/16"
'72-'74= 64 3/8"
........................................
........................................
Spring perch widths (center-to-center)
A BODY
'66-73= 43"
B BODY
'62-'70= 44"
'71-'74= 47.3"
C BODY
'65-'73= 46"
E BODY
'70-'74= 46"
Axle lengths 8 3/4
I'll post the whole 8 3/4" thing again for those who didn't get it the first time:
Mopar 8 3/4" Rear End Dimensions
........................................
........................................
8 3/4" axle shaft lengths measured from the tip of the splined end
to the outside of the flange:
A BODY
'66-'72= 27 11/16"
B BODY
'65-'67= 28 7/8"
'68-'70= 29 3/16"
'71-'74= 30 5/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"
C BODY
'65-'69= 30"
'70-'71= 30 5/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 31 21/64" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL (Large Bolt Pattern)
'65-'66= 30 1/8"
'67-'69= 30 5/16"
'70-'71= 29"
'72-'73= 31 7/16"
E BODY
'70-'74= 29 31/32"
A100
'65-'70= 30"
D100
'65-'71= 31 1/8"
'72-'74= 31 21/64
...........................................
...........................................
Housing widths, flange to flange
A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"
E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"
A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4"
D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"
.........................................
.........................................
Rear end widths, drum-to-drum:
A BODY
'66-'72= 57 1/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 58 1/2" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 60 7/8" (Exc.Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 59 1/2"
'68-'70= 60 1/8"
'71-'74= 63"
'71-'73 wagon= 64 3/8"
C BODY
'65-'69= 61.75"
'70-'71= 63.0" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 64 3/8" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 61 15/16"
'67-'69= 62 5/16"
'70-'71= 59 3/4"
'72-'73= 64 9/16"
E BODY
'70-'74= 61 5/8"
A100
'65-'70= 61 3/4"
D100
'65-'71= 63 15/16"
'72-'74= 64 3/8"
........................................
........................................
Spring perch widths (center-to-center)
A BODY
'66-73= 43"
B BODY
'62-'70= 44"
'71-'74= 47.3"
C BODY
'65-'73= 46"
E BODY
'70-'74= 46"
.
You must not understand how a green bearing works as compared to the OEM bearing. The green bearing is a fixed bearing, whereas you adjust the end play for the OEM due to the fact that they are tapered. You must adjust the end play on them.
Doesn't matter what your axle lengths are on an 8 3/4 if you're running OEM bearings you have an adjuster on the passenger side to set the end play be it an a body, b-body, C body or e body.
And the last thing you need is the end of the axle tube to be cocked or crooked if you've got that you got a problem.
Ok turbo, slow down. I know exactly how green bearing work, which is why I don't run them. I run OE style, tapered bearings with adjusters on all of my cars and have adjusted end play on all of them. I am plenty aware of what can and can't be done with the adjusters.
The axle housing in question is an ORIGINAL A-body 8 3/4. There's nothing to indicate it was anything other than a factory axle, and nothing else from the factory is even close to the A-body width. Which means, it's an A-body axle. You have to realize then that means it came from the factory with tapered bearings and adjusters right? And that it worked just fine for decades with that set up before you decided it wouldn't work with tapered bearings?
The axle length was measured with a tape measure, which is a heck of a lot less accurate than the jigs the factory used. It's just a factory axle that's more than likely well within the factory tolerances.
.
Pardon my ignorance. Until you said it was an original housing nowhere else in the thread was that stated. That is why I questioned if he had one axle slightly longer than the other . Especially with the nice grinding marks on the axle tubes it would be hard to determine that it was or was not a cut down housing.
Nowhere did I say he could not run tapered bearings. Don't know where you got that from.
Personally I prefer the tapered bearings over the roller. I know Ford used them for years blah blah blah.
All 8 3/4 use an adjuster on them with tapered bearings from the factory. So I guess you could say yes I understand that.
Thank you for your helping me to clarify what I said.
R4Sedan
Larry
Ok let me explain a few things. My friend got this rear on a trade. He told me it was an A-body rear. Him and I took it apart. It had the tapered axles and adjustable bearings. Fresh grind marks. Yes the guy was running it in a Chevy??? I asked and maybe I was being a little cautious, Sorry. The rear has never been Shortened! I grinded off all the funky mounting Chevy tabs. Anyhow, thanks Bryan. 72BlunBlu.
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