8 3/4 Question

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capac

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Picking up a rear end on Saturday. The seller sent me some pics and something looked strange to me (I've circled it in red). I believe this rear is from a 65-67 B body (59 1/2" wide, from drum to drum). I'm going to see if I can get by with using some backspacing...

I've never owned an 8 3/4 before, but I'm used to the shocks connecting to a plate in the leaf spring area. Is this some sort of modified suspension?

IMG_2348_LI.jpg
 
capac said:
Picking up a rear end on Saturday. The seller sent me some pics and something looked strange to me (I've circled it in red). I believe this rear is from a 65-67 B body (59 1/2" wide, from drum to drum). I'm going to see if I can get by with using some backspacing...

I've never owned an 8 3/4 before, but I'm used to the shocks connecting to a plate in the leaf spring area. Is this some sort of modified suspension?

View attachment 1715158698
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yeah, its been modified.
 
you sure hes not selling you the on behind it?
(the one thats laying upside down)
 
diymirage said:
you sure hes not selling you the on behind it?
(the one thats laying upside down)
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I am sure it's the one in front, based on some of the other photos. I could always just cut them off unless there would be some benefit to running that setup on a street car... :)
 
The B dody one is to large in length for a A body. You will have to cut it to work.
 
capac said:
I am sure it's the one in front, based on some of the other photos. I could always just cut them off unless there would be some benefit to running that setup on a street car... :)
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i dont see a reason to run ladders on the street
i would cut them off and clean it up
Steven190 said:
The B dody one is to large in length for a A body. You will have to cut it to work.
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debatable...that year B body is a little wider and the spring pads are off by a half an inch per spring
they "should" be cut and rewelded, but plenty of people run them as they are

this rear end is pretty popular because it brings the rear wheels a little further out (without cutting the tubes)
 
Steven190 said:
The B dody one is to large in length for a A body. You will have to cut it to work.
Click to expand...

I've heard that these early B body rear ends could work without any cutting, but would
diymirage said:
i dont see a reason to run ladders on the street
i would cut them off and clean it up

debatable...that year B body is a little wider and the spring pads are off by a half an inch per spring
they "should" be cut and rewelded, but plenty of people run them as they are

this rear end is pretty popular because it brings the rear wheels a little further out (without cutting the tubes)
Click to expand...

I was planning on moving the perches. I've seen many people talking about using this width rear in our A bodys and dialing in the tire location with rim offset. I'm really hoping I don't have to cut it, but will if need be!
 
what car is it going in?

looking at those bar mounts...the gearing might be a little steep for street use and it might have a spool in it
do you have any info on that?
 
diymirage said:
what car is it going in?

looking at those bar mounts...the gearing might be a little steep for street use and it might have a spool in it
do you have any info on that?
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I'm putting it in a 64 Valiant Signet Convertible. The seller said the carrier is a clutch-type and the gear is 3.91.
 
Keep a close eye on your back spacing and you should be good, those feelings have a lot less room for tires than my duster does

That's a pretty steep gear but not unheard of for a street car, the pending on your transmission that will probably do great, you'll love those clutch type sure grips
 
capac said:
I'm putting it in a 64 Valiant Signet Convertible. The seller said the carrier is a clutch-type and the gear is 3.91.
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Nope, I wouldn't recommend even trying on a early A.
 
capac said:
Wouldn't recommend what, that gear? I've ran a 3.91 on a street car before, although it was a B body. I'm not sure why it would matter though.
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The B Body rear is wide compared to a early A body rear. You will have to use specially made wheels.
 
Depending on what you paid and the condition of the center section, you might want to cut your losses and find an A-body housing, axles and backing plates. Just my 2 cents.

A good locking center section alone seems to go for 600 to 1500 dollars, a-body housings are in the 400-600 range, axles (pair) 100-150, backing plates 30-75 (pair).
 
Dana67Dart said:
Depending on what you paid and the condition of the center section, you might want to cut your losses and find an A-body housing, axles and backing plates. Just my 2 cents.

A good locking center section alone seems to go for 600 to 1500 dollars, a-body housings are in the 400-600 range, axles (pair) 100-150, backing plates 30-75 (pair).
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I'm picking this up for $850. I thought it was worth the risk.
 
capac said:
I'm picking this up for $850. I thought it was worth the risk.
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Yikes, that's a lot for something you'll have to modify. For reference, the spring perches on an A body are 43" center to center, and depending on what B body rear that actually is, you will have to move the perches in, or relocate your springs. 1 3/16" on each side is a lot, especially on an early A body! It's a tough fit for a Duster, an early A body is even narrower in the wheelhouse than any other A body! Much more research and measurements are needed if I were putting out $850 for something that wasn't bolt in ready!

There's also the bolt pattern difference to consider, just thought that needed to be mentioned!
 
If you have the tools and talent (I don't!) to remove the extra brackets, move the perches in 1/2 inch per side, narrow the rear and axles, straighten the housing, the cost to pay someone else will be greater than the cost to buy the correct parts. Not saying it can't be done. I'm the king of buying a "Deal" only to spend more overall to make it work.
 
I've been using a 65 B body with custom backspaced wheels and perches moved in a half inch on both sides. Just switched to a A body. So far I liked the B better.
 
capac said:
I'm picking this up for $850. I thought it was worth the risk.
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If the center section is in good shape you can sell the rest ~200 housing ~150 axles, ~50 backing plates and you did good at an all in price for the center section at ~450.00. (the reason I devalued the b-body parts to sell is they are more plentiful than A-body )
 
Not to mention, wheels with no dish, "flat" looking wheels, look out of place on vintage cars imo.
 
I run a e body width on a duster which is much more forgiving and nobody has ever noticed anything LOL
My advice is to run from this rear end fast! Someone didn't put ladder bars on it and take it out for Sunday drives to church. Unless they went to the Church of drag racing and beat the crap out of it with ladder bars?
My question to get out of the gate here is what motor is this going behind now and is there a potential for a bigger motor? Like if you have a slant 6 in there this is all a joke, but if you have plans for a stroker motor or something ??
 
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