8 3/4 Question

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Lelo Dart said:
I've been using a 65 B body with custom backspaced wheels and perches moved in a half inch on both sides. Just switched to a A body. So far I liked the B better.
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In which body? This member is attempting to put this rear into the extremely cozy confines of a 64 A body!! The wheelhouses, wheel lips and other restrictions make this an especially difficult fit! Of course, anything can be modified to fit, but at $850, he's already starting out at a huge disadvantage! And, no mention of it even being a Suregrip center!!
 
Steven190 said:
The B dody one is to large in length for a A body. You will have to cut it to work.
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cosgig said:
In which body? This member is attempting to put this rear into the extremely cozy confines of a 64 A body!! The wheelhouses, wheel lips and other restrictions make this an especially difficult fit! Of course, anything can be modified to fit, but at $850, he's already starting out at a huge disadvantage! And, no mention of it even being a Suregrip center!!
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The difference is a little more than a inch a side. With some careful measuring the correct backspacing on the wheels is all that is needed. Not saying he should buy that rear end, I think he should buy mine instead and save himself some trouble. :)
 
Oh yeah and my personal $0.02 after having a 7 in 1/4 and 8 and 1/4, blowing up an 8 and 3/4 the only thing I will spend my money on now is a Dana 60. Through all the crap, it actually was cheaper than building the 8 and 3/4. AND, I'll never have to do it again. Slant 6 to Hemi.
 
j par said:
I run a e body width on a duster which is much more forgiving and nobody has ever noticed anything LOL
My advice is to run from this rear end fast! Someone didn't put ladder bars on it and take it out for Sunday drives to church. Unless they went to the Church of drag racing and beat the crap out of it with ladder bars?
My question to get out of the gate here is what motor is this going behind now and is there a potential for a bigger motor? Like if you have a slant 6 in there this is all a joke, but if you have plans for a stroker motor or something ??
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I was also a little concerned about the whole ladder bar thing. Something could be tweaked or cracked and I won't be able to see it... :(

I built a stroked 318 (390) that should be just over 500HP at the flywheel.
 
I should also mention that the valiant is mini-tubbed and the spring relocation kit has already been ordered from uscartool. This should give me a little extra room to play with. I'm hoping to use a 275mm wide tire...
 
capac said:
I should also mention that the valiant is mini-tubbed and the spring relocation kit has already been ordered from uscartool. This should give me a little extra room to play with. I'm hoping to use a 275mm wide tire...
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The plot thickens!!!
 
capac said:
I should also mention that the valiant is mini-tubbed and the spring relocation kit has already been ordered from uscartool. This should give me a little extra room to play with. I'm hoping to use a 275mm wide tire...
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I don't know if your reasoning is correct there, now, if you were looking at a narrower rear end, it would work this way, but the tubbing gives room for more backspacing, and the wider rear end demands more of the same, in order to fit the wheels, so I don't know if the two work together
 
capac said:
Are my hopes too high to fit a 275 in there??
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go 295s:lol:

Since you tubbed the car and plan to relocate the perches then cut the crap out of the rear you bought, narrow it and the axles appropriately so you can fit the correct wheel with a reasonable back spacing in there. Everything you are pointing to screams narrower than stock and you are trying to go with wider than stock flange to flange rear.

just my 2 cents
 
Dana67Dart said:
go 295s:lol:

Since you tubbed the car and plan to relocate the perches then cut the crap out of the rear you bought, narrow it and the axles appropriately so you can fit the correct wheel with a reasonable back spacing in there. Everything you are pointing to screams narrower than stock and you are trying to go with wider than stock flange to flange rear.

just my 2 cents
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Noted. I actually haven't bought the rear end yet, so I can still back out. I just thought it was a descent deal for a sure grip carrier, with the gears I wanted, and he said the brakes are in really good condition. I've looked all over the place for a rear end that is factory A body width and it will cost a small fortune :(
 
capac said:
Noted. I actually haven't bought the rear end yet, so I can still back out. I just thought it was a descent deal for a sure grip carrier, with the gears I wanted, and he said the brakes are in really good condition. I've looked all over the place for a rear end that is factory A body width and it will cost a small fortune :(
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If you could get the rear end for say $500, that might be a decent deal! You would have a clutch center section, and be able to narrow the rear and move the perches for about $250, unless you can do it yourself! Then you would need custom length axles at about $400, making your total cash outlay $1150, and you could use all of the brake stuff! At $850, you're paying full retail plus, and it doesn't seem worth it. That would be Dana money!! Hope it all works out!!
 
I don't want to go through the cheap Dana build again because I have wrote a thread on it and all that crazy stuff. But here we go and this is voice command so I'm not even going to try and correct it. I found a Dana 60 on Craigslist with good 410 gears for $160. I sold all the crap that I didn't need for $40 like the brand new brakes and axles. So now a hundred $20 for the Dana at housing and 410 gears. Doctor diff will sell the carrier bearings the spool I should say the carrier bearings were $50 is full was 125 and any axles you want for any rear end at any custom size with green bearings are always $300 from dr. different. Anyways blah blah blah I have it cut to your size get the axles that fit it and be into it less than $1,200 for a rear end you'll never have to deal with again. The same amount I had into the eight and three-quarter that I blew up.
 
That looks like a lot of brake power,How are you planning to handle brake proportioning?
With that much power, I doubt you can make any street tire hook, so maybe the ladder bars want to stay? 275/15s would be a joke, period. Without some type of traction-aid, so will 295/15s be. You're gonna need to figure out a good way to put that power into the chassis so it doesn't twist it up. But Ima thinking, you've already thought of that, just haven't mentioned it yet.
Happy Hotrodding
 
capac said:
I actually haven't bought the rear end yet, so I can still back out.
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I thought you already bought it.

For reference this is what I have right now.

OE A-Body housing $500.00 Housing, $68 Shipping, $16.77 Fee
Snubber $36.95 (including shipping)
A-body SBP axles $50.00 pair (local)
10x1.75 loaded breaks $105.00 (I could have used my OE brakes but chose to replace to keep OE rear intact)
axle bearings ~75.00

Total so far $851

Center section...

200-300 non locking
600-1500 locking

All in total

best case
Open diff $1051
locking diff $1451

worst case
Open diff $1151
locking diff $2351

So if you can get a good condition locking rear for sub $1000 that won't need modification your doing very well.

some people here on FABO say you can get a rear for $300.00 -$600.00, but in 6 months of searching I never found one.

Good luck to you, I'm rooting for you.
 
It really gets to be in the price of the housing. How you modify it or if you modify it. Generally axles and bearings brand new are $300 no matter what configuration you get them in.
You can start out with an a-body housing which you don't need or you probably want something shorter since your wells are tubbed?
Here's the end result---
Basically within serious reason all the internal parts are relatively the same price between a Dana 60 in a Mopar 8 3/4. It just boils down to the housing. To get a stock housing for an eight and three quarter or to have it modified to the correct length you want it cost $500 just to get started because they're so LOL valuable LOL. Now when you take any Dana out of a Ford or Mopar or whatever and cut it down to the size you want and put the $75 Mopar ends on it that's being able to use all your brakes and basically everything that you normally would stock.
So in essence if you get one of these rear ends on your local Craigslist for under $200 and it cost maybe $300 or so to modify it by cutting the ends off and Welding regular Mopar ends on your back to the original $500 but now you have a Dana 60! And many many times those Dana 60s are in trucks and they come with nice 410 gears or something like mine did for $160. Of course people instantly go to thinking that they weigh so much more? Well heck yeah if it's got all that truck axles and truck stuff all over it. But when it's cut down and hollowed out it ain't that much more heavy. Besides any extra weight directly over your rear tires is probably just going to get you better traction.
 
Again I've done all of the the rear ends once! Lol I'm trying to just save one Soul if I can LOL I paid for all of them to learn that I should have just built the one to begin with!
 
j par said:
Again I've done all of the the rear ends once! Lol I'm trying to just save one Soul if I can LOL I paid for all of them to learn that I should have just built the one to begin with!
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Sorta like me and:
cams; I shoulda just put the smaller cam in, in the first place,or
4-speed powertrains; I shoulda just got the 65 trans and the 1350 joints in the first place,or
overdrives; I shoulda just got the GVOD in the first place

The only things I think I did get right in the first place were:
the 11/1 Scr and aluminum heads, and
the oiling mods musta worked,cuz the oem rods are still in this engine.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Thank you for the kind words
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Don't even try it, I was raised by the queen of The Guilt Trip?
I know your skin is much much thicker than that! Or I wouldn't even have dried it. Well yes I would have but I wouldn't have cared as much...
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions guys, I really appreciate this community. It's likely that I'll just end up cutting the housing myself. I just need to decide whether or not I'm buying the one mentioned earlier or not.
 
Sometimes you luck into stuff, but it takes time and patience to score a good deal! I'm of the "buy it when you see it, not when you need it" crowd! So far I've got about $600 into my latest 8 3/4" build! I got the housing under a parts car I bought, I found a fresh Dr. Diff 3:73 center section for $400 on my local CL, and almost new Yukon LBP axles on Chicago CL for $150 that a member brought to me. All I need are some brakes, which my brother has on an 8 3/4" truck housing he has, a couple seals later and boom LBP 8 3/4" A body SG rear end for $700
 
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