8.75 housing / axle help please

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drive48

drive48

MILK MAN
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i recently purchased a 8.75 rear housing off a member and was sold as a a-body rear but in fact is a b/e cut down.
my question is that if a standard housing is 52 3/4" flange to flange if i'm correct?

this housing is 52 1/2 length. the drivers side tube (flange to edge of chunk mount opening) is 21 3/4" pass side is correct 22" compared to my factory a body housing which both side measure 22".

will my factory 8.75 axles work with this or will that 1/4" on one side screw anything up?
i don't want to make a stink about this if it won't affect anything. thanks for the input.

picture of dark housing is factory
light pic is recent purchase.
 

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I would think if you are running factory timken style bearing with adjuster you should be alright. I don't know about green bearings.
 
moparclown said:
I think you'll be fine because with the green bearings you would remove the buttons in the suregrip carrier.
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thx bro, i know its only a 1/4" but its a 1/4"
i don't want to fuss to the seller if i can make it work.
 
crackedback said:
52 5/8" is std A body, so it's 1/8" short...
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thx rob,
looked like 52 5/8 - 3/4 but maybe i had a little rust or somethingon the original rear
i was just worried the tube being shorter versus the opposite site by 1/4" was a concern.
 
The tubes should be the same length. So one side is 1/4" short/long than the other

Greens and the spacer out should be good. I've had to trim the ends off an axle before to get them to fit.
 
waggin said:
i have heard to trim the end of the axel also
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You only need to trim the axle, if you use green bearings, and leave the "block" in the rear. According to Randys, each axle needs to be trimmed 3/16 inch.
Just spoke to them about this last week. I'm using a borrowed Pig, with a SG and the block, but had axles with different bearings to choose from.
 
crackedback said:
The tubes should be the same length. So one side is 1/4" short/long than the other

Greens and the spacer out should be good. I've had to trim the ends off an axle before to get them to fit.
Click to expand...
thx rob i will go that route i know its minimal but wanted to make sure the one shorter tube by 1/4" wasn't gonna screw me.

Charrlie_S said:
You only need to trim the axle, if you use green bearings, and leave the "block" in the rear. According to Randys, each axle needs to be trimmed 3/16 inch.
Just spoke to them about this last week. I'm using a borrowed Pig, with a SG and the block, but had axles with different bearings to choose from.
Click to expand...
gonna trim axle if needed with green bearings. explain block? haven't heard the term. you mean the axle buttons?
 
drive48 said:
thx rob i will go that route i know its minimal but wanted to make sure the one shorter tube by 1/4" wasn't gonna screw me.


gonna trim axle if needed with green bearings. explain block? haven't heard the term. you mean the axle buttons?
Click to expand...

Yup, thrust buttons in the suregrip if it's clutch and thrust block if it's a cone type. One is easier to remove than the other.
 
Yep, that's what I meant. I like the idea of leaving the block installed, and shorting the axles, if using the green bearings. That way if for some reason I have to swap axles, they will work even if they have the tapered roller bearings.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Yep, that's what I meant. I like the idea of leaving the block installed, and shorting the axles, if using the green bearings. That way if for some reason I have to swap axles, they will work even if they have the tapered roller bearings.[/QUOTEthanks guys for all the input. at least i can get this rear under the cuda this weekend.
Click to expand...
 
What suregrip do you have? If it's the clutch type the buttons come out pretty easy. If it's the cone type you need to take the unit apart to get the block out.
 
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