8.8 swap

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Driveshaft depends on what rear you had before. I had the same driveshaft in my duster with 8 1/4, 8 3/4, and 8.8.
For the 8.8 I had the stock mopar end cut off and the for end welded to my driveshaft and balanced. The length stayed the same. So you should just be able to use a conversion joint.
At the time I didn't know they had one for that, and the junkyard sawzalled the exploder driveshaft, so I had the end of it.
I think the exploder uses 1330 joint. Bigger than stock mopar joints.
 
Put the rest of it up on craigslist as a part out, or for sale complete. Salvage yard will usually only give you scrap weight for it. $50-$75. Might as well mine that nugget for all its worth. If you get $300-$400 out of whats left, then scrap whats left for $50-$75. If i could get a whole xploder for $100, i would do that.
 
so if i get that slip yoke from spicer for a 1330 driveshaft, can't i shorten the explorer driveshaft and use it and just eliminate the mopar shaft? then i don't need a combination u joint
 
scrap weight should be a lot more than $50-75 the last time i scrapped a car it was $10 per hundred pounds and i got about $300.

i would part it out but i can't have it sitting at my house especially with no rear axle underneath it
 
actually i just checked, place by my house is $6.75 per 100. so a 3,500 lb car is a little over $200, which i what i was expecting. as long as i make back my 100 i'm fine
 
Last dismembered vehicle I scrapped was a durango and I got 25$. Would have been nice to part it out but I don't have the time or room for that. I got my engine and trans and off it went.
You would have to check the length on the explorer driveshaft.
 
I think most people have their mopar driveshaft shortened and the new ford end put on at the same time. If you are rebuilding the rear end and using a new crush sleeve, don't forget you'll need an in-lb beam style torque wrench to measure the pinion preload. You'll also need some gear marking compound. Another tip: try to salvage the old inner pinion bearing if possible. Then sand it out a little on the inside and you can use it for mocking up your pinion depth. If you can't save it when you remove it I can loan you mine.

When you put on the actual bearing you don't have to take it to a shop or use a press, just throw the bearing in the oven on 200 degrees and the pinion in the freezer for a few hours, it should slide on but you gotta be sure about your shims before you do it. Also I would use a brand new pinion nut, cheap and available at local stores. Finally if you don't have a brass hammer or a brass pin or rod, get one. When you remove the pinion you'll have to hit the nut side to drive it out. You don't want to beat on those threads so just loosen the nut to the point where it's flush with the end of the threads and hit it with brass. I found it helps to have the whole rear end on jack stands so you can spin it when needed. Loctite your cross-pin bolt, and a new cover with a drain plug and magnet is a good investment. Sorry, you may know all this already lol
 
oh i'm not worried about all that stuff haha. i've done most of it before. plus the guy i have helping me is the best mechanic i know. there's nothing with wheels that he can't work on and hot rod. he just finished a beautiful 454 chevelle and he did every nut and bolt himself.

he's got a lift and press and everything in his own garage. plus he's been a ford tech forever so he can build and improve these 8.8s in his sleep. if i could choose anyone i've ever met to help me build one of these it would be him. of course he was trying to talk me into a 9 inch, which would be my first choice anyway, but thats not in the budget. for some reason 9 inches and mopar 8 3/4s are like gold anymore. as if ford didnt put the 9 inch in EVERYTHING for 30 years ha

i called 2 junkyards near me and one is 6.50 per 100 lbs and the closest one is 6 per 100. where are you guys scrapping these cars? are they complete? are you taking them or are you having them picked up?

i've scrapped a few cars and every time they just put it on a scale and weigh it and give you money based on the scrap metal rates. if they're cool they throw in extra for aluminum wheels haha

the reason i was asking about just using the ford driveshaft is that slip yoke goes into the tranny, it has the ford size u joint on the other end. plus you can use the normal u joint on the back end. doesn't it make more sense to get the aluminum driveshaft under there instead of using the 50 year old small mopar one?
 
The ones I got the 8.8s from didn't have an aluminum driveshaft. They had steel driveshafts, that's how i was able to put the Ford end on my driveshaft.
The durango was not complete. Body was rotted out like I've never seen, I pulled the engine exhaust trans transfer case and wiring harness.
 
yeah that may be why, i know at least one of the yards here specifically says "complete car" i believe with oem cats even. not sure why that matters other than the fact that they resell them. maybe that makes it more cost effective for the yard. or they get some sort of epa bonus for recycling them, who knows.

i called the one and even asked if it was ok to bring it in on a trailer with no rear axle under it and they said its fine, so i'm feeling fine about it. at this point even if the axle didnt work out for me i'll still be making money off it haha

to be honest i didn't even look far enough under it to see if the shaft was aluminum, i only assumed. i was thinking it was pretty common under fords by that time. but it really doesn't matter to me. as long as i get a driveshaft under there that's sturdy enough to beat on a little bit i'll be happy.

i'm eventually doing a 440 swap into it. i've had the engine for quite a while and it's a mild build, nothing fire breathing. but regardless of the build level, the car needs an upgraded rear and the 3 i would like the most, 9 inch, dana 60, and 8 3/4 are out of the budget. especially because i feel like for what the 8 3/4 costs, its not that much stronger than the 8.8, if at all. the 8.8 is a fine axle except for the dumb c clips. a friend of mine has a supercharged mustang and his is still holding together.

the new ford trac lok unit has a beefy housing, new spider gears and carbon fiber clutch packs. and it's rebuildable if something does break or wear out.

i really wish i could afford the 9 inch. maybe that's something i can collect pieces for way down the road. but if i one day in the future manage to build an engine and a car that actually requires that over the 8.8, i've clearly come into some money that i don't see on the horizon right now LOL
 
if i do the leaf spring relocation, does it not interfere with the gas tank?

i was looking at the kits that move them to the framerails and looking under my car and it doesn't look like there's enough room to me
 
Leaf relocation lines up the springs directly under the framerails. There should still be room for the tank. Your shackles at the back go through the framerail with this mod. Theres holes in the framerail at this location. You put tubing thru these holes and weld it to the framerail, then install your shackle bushings and shackles making the framerails your shackle mounts at the back.
 
I finished my swap last month had drums in back disk in front just added adjustable proportioning valve. Got drilled and slotted rotors from rock auto for 80.00. Had drive shaft shortened used u joint to go from mopar to ford from autozone. Spring perches from 4 wheel parts can do online or at store. Offset shackles from Mancini racing. I replaced only axle bearings. For $240.00 I would find the carrier with limited slip when you are there just find another Explorer pull the passenger axle and throw the drivers side on the the ground and stick the short one in so you aren't paying for extra axle. No interference with exhaust or gas tank
 
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well the one i bought is an open carrier, but i knew that before i bought it. ultimately its going to put me a little over the budget i planned, but its ok.

the ford performance trac lok carrier is beefy, has carbon fiber clutch packs, plus i'm getting new spider gears and carrier, and it's a little over $200. the rebuild kit for it with the carbon fiber clutches costs around $75.

so its a bit more expensive but not killer. and it will be all new guts, and i like that peace of mind
 
Finally disc brakes out back. That's what you'll be saying and have money left over for mopar parts you can't replace with other oem
 
loganscuda said:
I finished my swap last month had drums in back disk in front just added adjustable proportioning valve. Got drilled and slotted rotors from rock auto for 80.00. Had drive shaft shortened used u joint to go from mopar to ford from autozone. Spring perches from 4 wheel parts can do online or at store. Offset shackles from Mancini racing. I replaced only axle bearings. For $240.00 I would find the carrier with limited slip when you are there just find another Explorer pull the passenger axle and throw the drivers side on the the ground and stick the short one in so you aren't paying for extra axle. No interference with exhaust or gas tank
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and what did you wind up doing for the driveshaft?
 
I bought a trans yoke from junk yard I have a 2005 5.7 hemi and tranny in my barracuda. So i got one made. at local drive shaft shop. Which I have had shortened twice because o different rears I have tried. It looked to me you can use the exporer driveshaft have them cut it down I think mine cost $400 then 100 every time I had it shortened. What transmission are you using. I can ask these guys where they get the yokes from and get you a price for what you need. They are very helpful and will not sell what you do not need.
 
For you guys who have moved your rear back, how close is it to the gas tank? I'm in the process of finishing up my swap, and with it mounted in the center of the perch, I have 1-1/2" from the diff cover to the gas tank. If I were to move it back 1-3/8" it isn't going to leave me much room. Too I have to replace the gas tank, I'm sure that there is or could be some variances from the original tank vs a new one and I'm sure that knowing my luck it wont be for the good either. Too, shock angle, any issues? Thanks in advance for any help!
 
I moved mine back to center the wheels in the wheel well. I have about 1/2 inch clearance from the gas tank have been driving about a year no issue with it touching.
 
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