8.8 swap

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What about a fox body rear end will they fir into a Duster or Demon
 
You guys need to remember that the Dana 60 rears are offset as well. It is only like 1 3/8" though. The centering or offsetting is not that big of a deal. Not centered is actually better to rotate the needle bearings in the U-joints.
 
cuda guy said:
What about a fox body rear end will they fir into a Duster or Demon
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There's a little more work to put a Fox body into an A-body, most go with a explorer due to their 31 spline axles and the fact that they just about mount in with only some slight mods without having to cut down.

Mustang and Rangers only have the 28 spline and the rangers only have drums unless you can get a 2010 or newer model cheap. Also be aware that you either have to have a U-joint adapter or a driveline from a crown Vic to cut down (plus their aluminum). At the end of it all...it just comes down to choice and the amount of work you're willing to do.
 
thx guys
I will stick with my b body rear and just work on the backspacing
 
cuda guy said:
thx guys
I will stick with my b body rear and just work on the backspacing
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I heard about b body rear fitting an a body. What's up with that? My 60 is out of a 3/4 ton dodge truck with small tubes. Got a 4:10 in it and a 3:54 also. So I gotta rework it anyway. Tryin to save money.
 
You have to move the spring perches and get rims with less off set
 
Kick *** thread! Thanks Jake and everybody for the great info. Got my Exploder 8.8 yesterday. Still plentiful. $150 and I got everything! 3.73 TL disc brakes. Pads and rotors still look new. Think I'll buy another for the short axle and spares.
Looked at ^10 different trucks, vast majority had 3.73's. About half had TL. Couple 4.10 TL. No 3.27 or 3.55 TL. Oh well 3.73 it is!
Here we go!
What's your best tips or lessons learned?
 
Anybody know the horsepower limits of the 8.8? Thinkin about putting it behind a 440.
 
Tsully said:
Here’s 2 links that will help quite a bit when determining what you’re after when you got to the bone yard! One is for door codes the other is the rear end tag in case the either the door or rear end is not original to the Xploder!

Hope this helps!!!


Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes

Ford Rear Axle Assembly Identification - Page 13 - FORDification.com
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Yep. was armed with that at the yard. Taught them a guys alot about explorer rear ends! Like looking at the tag. They didn't know it was on the door............
 
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The best thing to do when you go to junk yard is pull a short axle out of another rear and pull the long one out of yours and slide the short one in no point in buying an axle you don’t need. If you are going to shorten long tube.
 
FYI since Harbor Freight doesn't sell the number 3 pipe cutter anymore I looked on eBay. Picked up a number two and number three for $11. They look old but are supposed to be in good shape. We shall see.
 
moparmandan said:
FYI since Harbor Freight doesn't sell the number 3 pipe cutter anymore I looked on eBay. Picked up a number two and number three for $11. They look old but are supposed to be in good shape. We shall see.
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I know I keep scrounging local pawn shops and eBay for one myself so it will cut that perfect V notch for welding it back together!!!!
 
Well git'er done! Took me all the five minutes to find mine. Found one that was described as used but good shape. From a well respected seller. but if it ain't For $11 I'll put a new blade in it and double my investment. Haha.
 
So two rangers in my back yard tells me i need to pull the diffs before they go to scrap.....
93’s. Im not planning big power, just to drive it,and my mrs really liked driving the dart.Its her car on paper so i better do what dhe says....
 
Check the rears in a Ranger first so you don't waste your time. Usually Rangers are a 7.5" rears unless you have a special edition (like the FX4, Splash, etc.)
 
Tsully said:
I know I keep scrounging local pawn shops and eBay for one myself so it will cut that perfect V notch for welding it back together!!!!
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It will not give you a V notch you should still grind the ends for a V groove the housing is still pretty thick. But it will be straight.
 
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loganscuda said:
It will not give you a V notch you should still grind the ends for a V groove the housing is still pretty thick. But it will be straight.
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I will admit it will not give you a deep V that most people say is required but at least you don’t have to worry about being out of tolerance when using a pipe cutter. Then when you do clean up the cut you can open the V more without compromising your measurements.
 
Yes that is correct I just didn’t want someone to think they could just cut it and weld it without prepping it. With just a straight cut you will not be able to get good penetration through all of the material.
 
Do you actually need to narrow the axle or is offsetting in and reselling on the spring perches enough to fit an A body?
 
I tried to install it but my driveshaft angle was too far off for my liking and the perches definitely didn’t line up. I have a 67 Barracuda with the 5.7 and 545rfe trans. So my drive shaft is definitely shorter than the original which my be the reason for the shaft angle. My thoughts are to try it before you cut it.
 
loganscuda said:
I tried to install it but my driveshaft angle was too far off for my liking and the perches definitely didn’t line up. I have a 67 Barracuda with the 5.7 and 545rfe trans. So my drive shaft is definitely shorter than the original which my be the reason for the shaft angle. My thoughts are to try it before you cut it.
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Ok, l have a 67 cuda as well. Bet you had to build a new floor for that 545rfe tranny. I'm thinkin gear vendors and 727 for me.
 
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