82 or 83 Dodge truck

[1930]

I picked this up not really knowing what I would do with it, I was/am looking for another mid eighties slant 4 wheel drive but tough to come by.

I picked this up fairly cheap I guess so now I need to make up my mind.

Id like to use it as a test bed, Id like to see if I can get it running, supposedly it ran last in 1996 maybe.

Previous owner had electrical problems though and couldnt fix them and gave up. Thats his story, I do not know if any of that is true.

I plan on gutting the interior and getting the wet carpet out of the cab and see what I have there. Underneath the truck ( except for one small area in the middle of drivers floorboard ) is spotless.

Cab does have a few small issues though I am aware of such as drip rail edge ( common ).

Came with another whole front end and it is the 86 style which I much rather prefer, not fond of this earlier style.

I am going to get the dash put back, I plan to just get another harness from salvage yard, all of this will not be an issue for me, just a bit of time.

Can someone tell me what these seats may have come from ? They are on the shitcan list as of now but I am curious.

At this point I want to spend as little money as is possible to get it running (if that is even going to be possible )

If/when I get it running than Id be more inclined to spend some dollars to make a driver out of it.

What do you guys think, what do you guys suggest as far as what first to do to get it running other than change the oil first.

 

[1930]

Hopefully these pics are a bit clearer

 

[nm9stheham]

Besides the electrical.....
- Pull valve cover and check for sludge. How much engine cleaning depends on this.
- Plan on a full flush of the cooling system as well as trannine change and sucking ouot rear axle juice and renewing.
- Full brake bleed at a minimum and if a lot of rust comes out, then evetually all nw cylinders (master and wheel) and calipers, etc.

 

[1930]

Besides the electrical.....
- Pull valve cover and check for sludge. How much engine cleaning depends on this.
- Plan on a full flush of the cooling system as well as trannine change and sucking ouot rear axle juice and renewing.
- Full brake bleed at a minimum and if a lot of rust comes out, then evetually all nw cylinders (master and wheel) and calipers, etc.

Yes, all good suggestions but at this point I would just like to see if it will even run, I havent even tried turning it over yet so much with a wrench.

Could have any # of issues so Id like to hear it run before I worry about other items.

I will pull valve cover, and will run some water through it. Thanks

 

[cuda65vpt]

LMC trucks just came out with parts for these trucks. I just got the new catalog, you can order one at the link. They have wiring harnesses and any patch panel parts you might need.

Looks like a nice body. As for those seats, I'm with your opinion they gotta go.

 

[1930]

This A.M I decided to try and turn it over, starter needed help so I put another in it, not frozen but very hard to turn over, I pulled all the plugs and the valve cover. ( mind you I have not even changed the oil yet )

Rocker shaft ect on # 1 cylinder a bit crusty, nothing hard core, mainly surface rust cause I can wipe away some of it with my finger but its still there.

Turned it back over with my remote starter.

Spun very easy with plugs out

Compression check is as follows. Mind you I am using a good screw in compression gauge, not the rubber tipped deal

#1 nuthin/notta, needle does not even budge

#2 same as above

#3 by the time I got to # 3 I got a VERY heavy stream of oil ( and fuel, forgot to disconnect that fuel line ) out of some places on the rocker shaft, not quite sure if I have oil at the # 1 cylinder yet though.

#3 showed 90, then went down to 60 then back up to 90......I stopped with this cylinder at this point, Im assuming that when it went back down to 60 thats when the valves was sticking open. AT this point a valve is stuck open, not sure if it is intake or exhaust, it is the one I am pointing too.

A this point it will not even close with the pressure of the valve spring trying to force it closed.

#4 110 pds but again not right away, it would pump up and then leak down very quickly then go right back up and eventually stayed up to the given reading.

#5 140 pds went right to 140

#6 120 pds If memory serves me this valve fluctuated a bit up and down as well. Not certain. My memory is getting worst with age

I dont know whats up with cylinder # 1 and 2

I would guess that maybe these valves are stuck open just a bit, maybe there is crud under the valves that needs to be removed. I can see all of the valves open and close when I turn over the engine ( with the exception now of the valve that I am pointing to which is stuck open but maybe I just am not able to see that they are open just a tad.

What would you guys do? Would you bother to change the oil yet? Its black and nasty ( and old, just dont want to piss away the money on an oil change for an engine that has broken rings or something else major thats why I decided to take the route I am taking.

It is a sign when the valves stick like this that the valve guides are shot, seems to me that if a valve is able to hang up that chances are it means its cokeyed in the guide which of course prob. wouldnt be an ideal situation.

Just guessing, I am only trying to learn an so forgive my stupid questions.

BTW I wish that my brand new re-0build slant in my truck built up oil pressure this quickly. That was a joke trying to get oil to the top end.
Thanks for any advice.

 

[daliant]

Mid to late 70's trucks were notorious for having bad ammeters in 'em, causes the whole truck to go dead electrically. Could be the source of your electrical problem. I don't know when they redesigned the instrument cluster in the 80's but the fix is either to bypass the ammeter completely or replace the studs in the back of the gauge with brass ones.

 

[dartnabout]

The seats look like E body seats. Not real sure but if they are you could sell them. Nice find.