833 tranny

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1973dusterkid

1973dusterkid

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Ok so I so I am looking to put a 4 speed in when I do my motor swap. I was looking would a 833 4 speed work in a 73 duster the guy says its for a smallblock but its a early model longtail
 
"Long tailShaft" won't work..You need a short tailshaft 4-speed for an A-body in a Duster. I have a couple if looking. Also have an OD Cast iron case as well. Have a set of pedals I think as well as most of the linkages.

I think I MIGHT even have a small block 10.5 Bellhousing.
 
Dukeboy said:
"Long tailShaft" won't work..You need a short tailshaft 4-speed for an A-body in a Duster. I have a couple if looking. Also have an OD Cast iron case as well. Have a set of pedals I think as well as most of the linkages.

I think I MIGHT even have a small block 10.5 Bellhousing.
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Whats the reason it wont work
 
some one will correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe the position of the shifter mounting pad is different, but i've seen people make there own bracket to correct for that. long tailshaft also means you'll need a shorter driveshaft, also doable.
 
bigtooth said:
some one will correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe the position of the shifter mounting pad is different, but i've seen people make there own bracket to correct for that. long tailshaft also means you'll need a shorter driveshaft, also doable.
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Well drive shaft is nothing theres a driveline compney right down the road but the shifter might be the problem how far is it out of were it should be
 
oh yeah, and if its early enough to be the ball and trunion type your slip yoke wont work with it.
 
Dukeboy said:
"Long tailShaft" won't work..You need a short tailshaft 4-speed for an A-body in a Duster. I have a couple if looking. Also have an OD Cast iron case as well. Have a set of pedals I think as well as most of the linkages.

I think I MIGHT even have a small block 10.5 Bellhousing.
Click to expand...

Actually if the long tail shaft has two shifter mounts you can use it in an A-body if you don't mind a little fabrication. You will need to fabricate a adapter that bolts to the rear position on the tailshaft and positions the shifter forward to the normal a-body position (the front mount is partially under the torsion bar cross member). The second thing is the drive shaft will need to be shortened. Bigblockdart.com has a drawing for the adapter.

I put a long tail shaft A833OD tranny in my 68 Barracuda back in 2000 and now 70k miles latter I am still rowing the gears.
 
dgc333 said:
Actually if the long tail shaft has two shifter mounts you can use it in an A-body if you don't mind a little fabrication. You will need to fabricate a adapter that bolts to the rear position on the tailshaft and positions the shifter forward to the normal a-body position (the front mount is partially under the torsion bar cross member). The second thing is the drive shaft will need to be shortened. Bigblockdart.com has a drawing for the adapter.

I put a long tail shaft A833OD tranny in my 68 Barracuda back in 2000 and now 70k miles latter I am still rowing the gears.
Click to expand...


Heres the plate you need to switch the shifter position


abconvadapt4.jpg
abconvlink1.jpg
With a little custom fabrication and a nice B/E body 4 speed you can stick it into your A body Hot Rod! Duster 413 gives us the info to do just that.​


abconvshiftadapter.jpg
The above template will provide you with the adapter needed to pull this off. Below are a few pics of the adapter.​


abconvshiftadapt001.jpg
abconvshiftadapt004.jpg


abconvpl2.jpg
abconvmods.jpg


There are a few other mods required to use this adapter. The B-body mounting lugs must be ground down to keep the lugs from hitting the trans support rail (Or you can notch the support rail.) (Green arrow.) Also, you will have to give the trans tunnel a couple of dimples with a ball peen so that the adapter attaching bolts don't jam against the tunnel. (Yellow Arrow.)​
 
jtkaaa07 said:
Heres the plate you need to switch the shifter position



With a little custom fabrication and a nice B/E body 4 speed you can stick it into your A body Hot Rod! Duster 413 gives us the info to do just that.​




The above template will provide you with the adapter needed to pull this off. Below are a few pics of the adapter.​




​




​



There are a few other mods required to use this adapter. The B-body mounting lugs must be ground down to keep the lugs from hitting the trans support rail (Or you can notch the support rail.) (Green arrow.) Also, you will have to give the trans tunnel a couple of dimples with a ball peen so that the adapter attaching bolts don't jam against the tunnel. (Yellow Arrow.)​
Click to expand...












Not that bad
 
:violent2:That's alot of fab work just to say you did something. The $$ one saves will be spent fabbing up fifty different parts. You better hope you found a 1970 and LATER B/E-body 4-speed, or that REAR shifter pattern won't be there.
 
Considering you can get A833ODs from pickups and vans for less than $100, fab the adapter in an hour or two from scrap plate and it cost me $75 to have the drive shaft cut and balanced, that is quite a savings from the typical $400-$500 for an A-body A833.

BTW, There is only one part that needs to be fabricated and one modified. Clearancing the tunnel is car specific (I didn't need to) and is only a couple of whacks with a hammer. There is only one boss on the front mount that is close to the torsion bar cross member. On my car it didn't touch statically but would when turning. I wound up nipping the corner off the boss; it still had enough flat to be used as a boss.

FWIW, I got my tranny, bell housing, flywheel, clutch, slip yoke and shifter from an 81 D100 pickup for $75. So it cost me a total of $220 (tranny, drive shaft, a-body shifter rods and hump) to go from a 3 spd manual to 4spd. That was my motivation.
 
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