833 trans, OD

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1olddmf

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I have std 833 in my A body, found a 833 OD, but with long tail shaft, ( pick up truck?)
can I swap out the tail shaft from my 833 , into the OD trans?
I have 340 in my A body with 8 3/4,
it is NOT a race car, never been, or plan to go to the track,
I've read thay aren't that strong, not debating they are or aren't,
just looking for rpm drop on the hiway, currently has 391 gears,

thanks
 
Hope you got the bellhousing with it, as your current bellhousing has a 4.354" opening for the front bearing retainer, the OD trans has a 5.125" bearing retainer.
If you have the truck bellhousing with it, it uses a ball/stud clutch fork that isn't going to work with your A body clutch linkage.
Shift levers are different on the OD (3-4 lever is upside down), take that into account when setting up your shift linkage, if you don't have the original OD linkage.
The mainshafts are different.
Yes, you could make a long tail trans. fit your A body with some work, but then you'll need a different (shorter) driveshaft, which MAY also necessitate a change in your rear pinion angle. You'll most likely need a longer speedo cable to fit the longer tailshaft.
Personally, I'd wait until a complete A/F body OD tranny setup presents itself.
 
I know the 3.91 is fun, I would find a complete 3.23 set up and swap gears.
I used to swap 3.91 in after work on Friday and on Sunday morning swap the 3.23 in.
If you are smart you can extend the brake lines, so you just pull the axles out a few inches, unbolt the center and rear u-joint.
With a drain plug on the housing, rear end swap is under an hr swap.

The gear ratios really suck in an OD 833, I have ran that trans, and prefer the std 833.
I have an A body OD 833 but shipping to AZ would cost as much as the trans is worth.
 
the biggest obstacle to the swap is the diameter of the input retainer. so you either need a F body bell with the bigger OD or to enlarge the register in yours.

you can make a bracket that mounts between the long shaft mounts and then place your shifter in the correct position. naturally, you'll need to shorten the driveshaft.
 
was thinking it was NOT major issue, LOL
I ran accross a truck 833 OD, with bell housing,
from a 6 cyl,
oh well, thanks for your help!
 
just looking for rpm drop on the hiway, currently has 391 gears,
The 340 with a manual trans, really needs the 3.91s to get off the line, especially if it is down on cylinder pressure. And even more so if the trans is a T/A ratio.
The 3.91s also help it blast thru the gears.
The od trans solves getting off the line, and solves the cruise rpm. Unfortunately, it kills Second gear.
When analyzing why this is, you have to look at the "overall gearing" which I call road gears, which is nothing more than the rear gear times the trans gears.
Supposing that you have a 70Up A833, the trans gears are
2.47-1.77-1.34-1.00 and with 3.91s, the Road-gears are
9.66-6.92-5.24-3.91, and 65=3165, with 27" tires
This is a great set-up, except for the cruiser, and 6.92 is a great Second gear, if a lil high..
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The od gear ratios are;
3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od. with the 3.91s,
the Roadgears would be
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85, and 65=2300. compare this to your current
-9.66-6.92-5.24-3.91,
But that 12.08, while fun for a while, is gonna get old fairly soon. and
third gear is a lil far away from Second. Too far for my driving style.
>The bottom line is this, if your 340 has a "bit of a cam" in it, the pressure is likely gonna be down some, which softens the power at low-rpm. If that is true, then she may not like the Rpm drops between gears.
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Forget running 3.23s with the od box; the Roadgears are
9.98-5.39-3.23-2.36
First is nice now, but Second sucks quite a bit, and the cammed-up 340 is not gonna like 65=1910 rpm, nor will the low rpm save any fuel , unless you install an Ignition Timing Computer.
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If I had a manual trans 340, it would get a 5-Speed, with gears something like
3.09-1.92-1.40-100-.78od, and with 3.55s the Roadgears would be
10.97-6.82-4.97-3.55-2.77, and 65=2240
Compare this to your combo;
>9.66-6.92-5.24-3.91, and 65=3165, with 27" tires. Notice the first three gears are very similar to what you now have, except First is a little lower. This helps take-off and parading
This 2240 is about as low a cruise rpm as you can run, and still get a decent cruise timing. This combination of gears does not require a lot of horsepower to have fun with. The stock 340 with/or without headers is all you need.
------------------------------------
but I gotta tell you, cylinder pressure is worth gear multiplication.
From my years of experience as a streeter, I'm gonna guess that every 20psi is worth at least 8% gear. So going from 120psi to 160, is 40psi is worth say 16% gear, so 3.91s less 16% is 3.28s, rounds to 3.23s .
if you already have 150psi then you'll need 190psi to drop down to 3.23s and you cannot run that with iron heads.............. but you can with alloys.
With 3.23s and 27s, 65=2600 and
2600 is a heckuva lot better than 3165.
However,
3.23s will make your take-off suck! and introduces a new condition, namely, a lack of acceleration thru the gears because of the additional time spent spent in each gear, due to the loss of Torque-multiplication.. ....... but you said you were not driving it that way nor racing it.
The new Roadgears with 3.23s and the T/A trans, would be
7.99-5.72-4.33-3.23 compared to the current
-9.66-6.92-5.24-3.91
And that is why my 340 would get a 5-speed.
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But if your 340 is of the hi-compression variety, and it no longer has the factory pressure-plunging 114Lsa cam in it, well then, the pressure is likely to be up, which is good for the bottom-end, and so will do well with 3.55s and would only be a lil sucky with the 3.23s.
And if it has the older 2.66 low trans in it, then the roadgears would be
8.59-6.20-4.52-3.23, and you are back in action. If you can find a Commando-Box which has the 3.09 in it, then the Roadgears with 3.23s are
9.98-6.20-4.52-3.23, and problem solved. Compare this to yours
9.66-6.92-5.24-3.91, Badaboom!
Happy HotRodding.
 
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Based on the article in the thread I linked to, looks like a small spline 3.09 gear A833 wouldn't need a new mainshaft and avoids needing to find the big bearing retainer bellhousing.
 
Based on the article in the thread I linked to, looks like a small spline 3.09 gear A833 wouldn't need a new mainshaft and avoids needing to find the big bearing retainer bellhousing.
Not true. It can take the same gearset as any regular A-833. 4th gear is always 1:1. The O/D 3rd gear uses a smaller diameter on the mainshaft. It is the last gear on the mainshaft. Just before the 3/4 synchro assy. The 3.09 input shafts are the same as some O/D boxes but that is the 1:1 gear 4th in a regular A-833 and 3rd in an O/D box.
 
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Not true. It can take the same gearset as any regular A-833. 4th gear is always 1:1. The O/D 3rd gear uses a smaller diameter on the mainshaft. It is the last gear on the mainshaft. Just before the 3/4 synchro assy.

Don't know, just relaying what the article said. Maybe I am misunderstanding you though.

Based on the article, sounds like most A833 boxes need a different main and input shaft to run the OD gears, but a small spline 3.09 box can use reuse the main and input shaft. My assumption is that if a standard 3.09 box is used, it would also mean that the smaller input bearing and retainer could also be used (article says you can reuse the original bearing), thus sidestepping the step of finding a large bearing retainer bellhousing.

But I'm no A833 expert, only tripped over the article years ago and shared it.
 
I've swapped O/D gears into standard boxes. I personally like the O/D gear sets, but I swap the O/D gears and mainshaft into a standard small bearing, 307, A-833 main case to get away from the loose countershaft and larger 308 input bearing. That way I can also swap The O/D into a standard A-Body bellhousing. I just happens that the input shaft from an early or late 3.09 gear set is the same as one of the two O/D gear sets. The input shaft is combined with the 4th gear on a standard A-833 or 3rd gear of an O/D gear set since the O/D gear is on the O/D main shaft. All standard A-833 main shafts, including the 3.09 main shaft, will take any gear set, except the two O/D gear sets. If you want to run the O/D gear sets, the only main shaft that will work is an O/D main shaft. Reread the article.
 
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I've swapped O/D gears into standard boxes. I personally like the O/D boxes, but I swap the O/D gears and mainshaft into a standard small bearing, 307, A-833 main case to get away from the loose countershaft and larger 308 input bearing. That way I can also swap The O/D into a standard A-Body bellhousing. I just happens that the input shaft from an early or late 3.09 gear set is the same as one of the two O/D gear sets. The input shaft is combined with the 4th gear on a standard A-833 or 3rd gear of an O/D gear set since the O/D gear is on the O/D main shaft. All standard A-833 main shafts, including the 3.09 main shaft, will take any gear set, except the two O/D gear sets. If you want to run the O/D gear sets, the only main shaft that will work is an O/D main shaft. Reread the article.

Gotcha. I was reading "main shaft" into the text and it isn't there. Only the input shaft is useable.

My comment that a 3.09 box could be used to avoid tracking down a bellhousing still applies, but the main shaft does not transfer over like I was thinking.

Thanks.
 
Gotcha. I was reading "main shaft" into the text and it isn't there. Only the input shaft is useable.

My comment that a 3.09 box could be used to avoid tracking down a bellhousing still applies, but the main shaft does not transfer over like I was thinking.

Thanks.

Oh yes, for sure. Much better to use your original bellhousing. Then all you really need is the O/D 3-4 shifter linkage rod and arm and you are good to go.
 
The problem with running the small imput brg is the deflection at the imput/output coupling.
The 3/4 shift collar locks the shafts together creating strength in normal operation, - but with overdrive the collar doesn't lock the shafts, so the output shaft can spin faster.
The bigger input bearing helps take the deflection, where the weakness seems to be, and helps take load off the tiny rollers between imput/output shafts, now spinning all the time, as never before .
The case hardening usually fails on the output shaft .
 
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The problem with running the small imput brg is the deflection at the imput/output coupling.
The 3/4 shift collar locks the shafts together creating strength in normal operation, - but with overdrive the collar doesn't lock the shafts, so the output shaft can spin faster.
The bigger input bearing helps take the deflection, where the weakness seems to be, and helps take load off the tiny rollers between imput/output shafts, now spinning all the time, as never before .
The case hardening usually fails on the output shaft .

Interesting.
 
The problem with running the small imput brg is the deflection at the imput/output coupling.
The 3/4 shift collar locks the shafts together creating strength in normal operation, - but with overdrive the collar doesn't lock the shafts, so the output shaft can spin faster.
The bigger input bearing helps take the deflection, where the weakness seems to be, and helps take load off the tiny rollers between imput/output shafts, now spinning all the time, as never before .
The case hardening usually fails on the output shaft .
Never had that happen yet, but I don't use the O/D main housing.
 
The problem with running the small imput brg is the deflection at the imput/output coupling.
The 3/4 shift collar locks the shafts together creating strength in normal operation, - but with overdrive the collar doesn't lock the shafts, so the output shaft can spin faster.
The bigger input bearing helps take the deflection, where the weakness seems to be, and helps take load off the tiny rollers between imput/output shafts, now spinning all the time, as never before .
The case hardening usually fails on the output shaft .


Many years ago, I was a transmission Rebuilder working for BigDeal company in Winnipeg. For them, I have rebuilt many transmissions with the pilot rubbed right off the front of the Mainshaft. I always wondered how that could happen.
My boss figured out how to repair that, good as new, and a lot of transmissions went out with the fix. In 6 years we never had a warranty.
 
I have std 833 in my A body, found a 833 OD, but with long tail shaft, ( pick up truck?)
can I swap out the tail shaft from my 833 , into the OD trans?
I have 340 in my A body with 8 3/4,
it is NOT a race car, never been, or plan to go to the track,
I've read thay aren't that strong, not debating they are or aren't,
just looking for rpm drop on the hiway, currently has 391 gears,

thanks

If you do this and decide you’d like to sell the longer mainshaft, I may be interested.
 
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