86 Black Roller 318, swap/interchange into 72 318

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volaredon said:
WHERE IS THAT RED X??????
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did you not read the rest of the post?

i loves me some 318, i have one in my car. i've built numerous mild to hot 318's.

if your goal is 400hp from a small block, a 360 does that all day everyday without breaking the bank OR a sweat.

if OP had said i'm looking to bust down 300~350 on a 318 on a beer budget it's an entirely different conversation.
 
340 Forged cranks are balanced for heavy forged pistons. If you use one with 318 pistons especially hypers, it's gonna cost heavy dollars to balance that up.
IIRC those 340 pistons were around 719grams versus like 550 on the stock 318s.
Hypers would likely be less.
Save some cash, use the 318 crank.

FYI
My 367 has been running a FTH 230/237/110 cam, with lifts of 549/571, ever since 2004. Thus
the roller cam is not high on my wish list. Not sure I would use a Magnum bottom end even if I had one. Actually, as I think about it, no, if I already had a complete LA, I wouldn't bother with anything off a Magnum. Jus saying.
and
besides all that, a 360 LA falls together at about 10.7Scr with KB107s and 63cc Alloy heads. No funny machining required no endless calculations; Just balance the bottom end and screw it together. and the good news is that, with a proper quench, it will run up to 195psi (the highest I have tried) still on 87E10.. This would allow you to run any cam with an Ica between; 52* (the stock 360 2bbl cam), to 64* (the stock 340 cam), to about 68* before the bottom end starts to get soft; all of this runs on 87E10;
and if you deck it right, to get about 11.2 Scr, you can run up to a 72* Ica, all of it on a modest convertor and whatever rear gear (depending on cam selected), that you heart desires to run.
The savings of NOT having to buy/install a convertor and/or gears will more than pay for the 360 core and the decking. So yur into the project for the price of the heads, which are half paid for by not buying a roller cam; and they will be fully paid for in the following months by running the 87E10 over hi-test.

And now you have the freedom to make as many mistakes on cam-selection, as usually happens, cuz guys almost always choose too-big the first time.
The hi pressure 360 allows you plenty of freedom to make mistakes, that you don't have to come out a loser over..
I mean, for me, the decision was a no-brainer.
and the punchline is, that I was never sorry that I picked it out of my pile of cores.
Had I stuck with a 318, I'd still be kicking myazz, over 20 years later.

Listen; I'm not a 318 hater;
I'm a realist, in the long run, power for power, the 360 just costs less.
Look, you don't even have to set the cam-timing, just dot to dot it, and verify it's in at least close by laying a straightedge over the lifter tops; thus you'll save another hundred or more, and the 360 will have more power than your A-body chassis can handle, even if the cam-timing is out by up to 8* advanced to 4* retarded, who really cares. Heck you can even run log manifolds and make well over 300 crank-horsepower, and save another bundle by not buying headers. This 360 is practically begging you to build it. For another buncha money saved, just put the 2bbl set-up back on; you'll still make 300hp even on a bad day! Heck, put the 360 2bbl cam back in too! At 10.7 Scr you'll have so much torque, you can burn the tires off with 2.76 gears. Heck, those will get you to 60mph still in first gear, so you don't even have to shift!! lol.
Ok wait, I already did that;
except with a 340 bottom
and a 318 top and cam, lol.
In a 65 Valiant wagon. Sweetest combo I ever built.
Until my current combo that is................
 
AJ/FormS said:
What's wrong with using the 318 crank that is already in the engine? Even if it's cast, How many broken 318 street-cranks have you ever seen? or heard of?
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LMAO! That’s a 100% correct statement from the 318 hater.
:poke:

Seriously folks, a 318 crank will work great.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Don't you have work to do?
I'm retired.
what's your excuse, lol
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I’m retired but have considered working again, though my posting won’t slow down any.

Did you miss my stick poking emoji trying to transfer the idea that I’m just kidding?

Crap! Backed you up there after!
 
AJ/FormS said:
What's wrong with using the 318 crank that is already in the engine? Even if it's cast, How many broken 318 street-cranks have you ever seen? or heard of?
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I was just on the phone BSing with a life long friend and he just brought up a time when he broke a cast crank in a Pontiac Grand Prix way back when.

He is notorious for pounding cars into the grave early.
It’s also one of the reasons he got into and stayed with MoPar.
He used to pound on cars like no tomorrow, but the MoPar kept up with him. (Save the - 383 he had in a ‘69 Road Runner. But that wasn’t a crank issue.)
 
AJ/FormS said:
What's wrong with using the 318 crank that is already in the engine? Even if it's cast, How many broken 318 street-cranks have you ever seen? or heard of?
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I bought a 72 Barracuda from an old girl friend many moons ago. I got it real cheap, 318-broken crank. that is the only one I have ever seen.
 
You can't use the 72 heads on the 86 block if you are using the factory style roller cam. The roller cam heads have a .660 diameter pushrod hole while the flat tappet blocks had a .500 diameter pushrod hole. The roller lifters are longer, requiring shorter pushrods which puts them at more of an angle. I think all aluminum heads have oval or the larger pushrod holes. So beware!
 
AJ/FormS said:
What's wrong with using the 318 crank that is already in the engine? Even if it's cast, How many broken 318 street-cranks have you ever seen? or heard of?
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two. one in a absolute beat to death, ragged out work truck that was probably run low on oil more times than i've gotten laid. the other in some johnny hot **** motor that had a crank turned .050 with some ungodly amount of compression, stall and gears.

to clarify, and absolve myself, i was not the owner, care taker or behind the wheel at the time of these events.
 
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