I usually pull the drum part way out & push back, and the outers fall in your hand. For the inners, you first pry the grease seal out with a screwdriver. Place newspaper underneath all around and have plenty of new paper and change it often. I clean all old grease off the spindle and inside the hub with paper towels, then gasoline. I clean bearings by running them over a freebie newspaper magazine and turning the page often. I would leave the races alone if they look pristine, but if any pits, replace them. You can knock them out with a flat screwdriver, but a brass drift is better. There are two small notches on the step shoulder to set the drift, and keep changing sides so you don't **** the race. Start the new race with a hammer or socket, but be sure to not let it **** in the bore. If you have an exact size socket, use that or tap around the outside slowly. Don't rest a socket on the center of the race (don't mar it). Keep tapping until you seat it fully. Don't use any lubricant, indeed best to clean to "squeaky metal" with gasoline. WD-40 might be OK. You don't want the race ever spinning in the hub. Pack the new bearings fully with grease, jamming it in all around under the retainer with your finger until it oozes out the other side. Don't just sissy-coat the surface. I prefer black moly grease. Tap the grease seal until just flush, not too deep. Pack grease inside the hub too. When you tighten the spindle nut take extra care, spinning the hub and just slightly tighten with a Crescent wrench, then (not spinning) back off and tighten finger tight, then back up to the next hole that fits the cotter pin. There should be maybe the slightest perceptible play in the hub. If you over-tighten, it will fail in maybe 10 miles (read a recent post). I recall the manual covers most of this, but works for all cars I have owned.
