to add to Omaha, There is also a Book by Carl H Munroe. Very good read I hear. I Just did one, it was very simple. Its like a big carburetor rebuild. Lay everything out the way it comes and reverse the procedure. Use a exploded diagram if you get lost, tighten up the clutch packs, input and gear train end plays as close to minimum factory spec as you can (their in the ATSG manual), it will add to longevity. Take your time, and do it once.
Oh, this is the most complete quality kit I've found. Transtar. Little over $100 to your door, you can rebuild with just this.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=9099
I got my extras goodies from here: (selective size clutch pack retaining rings, completed the bushings set, end play selective size thrust washers.)
https://www.wittrans.com/Default.aspx?
A word on the bushings...
The front pump, direct drum and tailshaft bushings go out the most. I replaced them all for piece of mind. I found that I can seat the direct drum bushing by setting the large end of the front pump on it then give it a whack on the small end, you'll see what i mean when you get there.
You can install them yourself. Hacksaw them lengthwise, then take a small awl or screwdriver and pound them out. Clean the hard parts with gentle detergent. Stick the bushings in the freezer, the hard parts in the oven at 200F, oil the bushing and wall where your going to install. then hammer the bushings in with a piece of wood or rubber between the hammer and the bushing, if you need to seat them, use a socket that is
slightly larger than the outside diameter of the bushing. BAP.
If your feeling froggy add a TF-2 Shift kit. :yawinkle: It will firm up the shift, and cut down the 2-3 overlap, among other things.
If that's not enough to make your head spin, There are plenty of posts on this subject if you search the site, and google it.
