904 removal

[DQ81]

As I've stated previously my 904 is shot.

The interesting sounds it made to be heard here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldq0IaRWm28
If you feel so inclined please tell me what you think the noises are, I plan to rebuild the trans if necessary once pulled, though I suspect more and more it's the torque converter playing up.

My theory now is that the TC was dying and not building up sufficient pressure.

The transmissions current behaviour is to do nothing in all gears, lol.

I can get the car rolling, start in N put quickly in D or R and hey presto gear engages slowly, to much throttle and it slips out of gear. It was enough to get me home. Sometimes I can 'trick' it by giving the accelerator a quick jab and then it will slip back into gear. Doesn't shift out of 1st though!

Anyway, I've gotten a working and tested (by me) 904 w/ TC and flexplate out of a donor vehicle, however the PO pulled it.

This guy is not a friend of mine so I got to test it and 2 days later picked it up. No chit chat.

I don't have a garage and will be renting lift space to do the swap so I want to be prepared and have to get it done right in one go. Could somebody be so kind as to give me a play by play of the 904 pull/replacement process, what to look out for, be carefull of etc. I'll be using the converter that comes with the replacement trans but want to refresh it's fluid. Drain and then refill with a quart? I'm replacing the fluid even though it's nice and pink, the filter and gasket too. Also a new trans mount is going in.

So far I figure I've got to:

Pull the starter
Disconnect/remove driveshaft
Disconnect trans fluid lines
Disconnect kickdown linkage (anyone got a DIY kickdown cable how to?)
Remove exhaust at headers
Remove belhousing bolt to motor
Remove tailshaft area trans mount

What am I missing? What are the possible pitfalls of this job?

Thanks in advance

David

 

[Max340]

Remove the dust shield from the front of the bellhousing, and remove the converter bolts. Converter comes out with the trans. Before replacing the trans, check and be sure the two converters are identical, no extra weights etc. Also, the flexplate only bolts up one way, as one bolt hole is off just a bit. You may want to match the new converter to the flexplate before installation. A quick spot of spray paint will mark the converter and flexplate so installation goes quickly.

 

[6pk2goDemon]

While the tranny is out...check the freeze plugs in the back of the block.

If they're steel, I would change them to brass.

 

[DQ81]

How much of a PITA would it be to do the work in the driveway, or in my case off-street parking?

I'm having a hard time getting a hold of a lift I can use and am thinking if I use 2 jack stands to prop up the front end of the car and a third to support the engine while I pull the trans..?

To those who have done this swap before, is that feasable? It's mighty cold but I wan't this thing fixed.

how much clearance from the ground do I minimally need?

tia

 

[mopar head]

Usually high as some jackstands go, that way u can roll it out and in. instead of dragging it around. I would use 4 stands and blocks of wood, and a bottle jack for engine, finer adj. flat and level! dangerous $hit. good luck.:-D

 

[6pk2goDemon]

Just had to pull the 904 in the Demon a couple of months ago on the floor. The machinist forgot to install the freeze plugs :error:, that's why I mentioned changing those if needed.

You'll need close to 2 feet of clearance to get the tranny out. A tranny jack borrowed or rented would be a big plus....:help:

Use a piece of wood between the center link and the oil pan to support the motor as it drops.

If a small block....disconnect the distributor cap or it will get crushed as the motor is lowered.

Hope this helps.....:cheers:

 

[C130 Chief]

As stated before, you'll need to elevate the whole car, level is better. You'll also need to put a jack under the engine BEFORE you remove the rear crossmember. You'll want about half a meter of clear space under the car. Bear in mind the transmission is heavy and very capable of killing you if you drop it on your face. You should have at least a safety observer if not a helper when doing this.

A factory service manual will have very explicit instructions for the removal and installation procedures. I would strongly discourage you from undertaking such a task without a manual.

The factory kickdown (throttle pressure) linkage works well, why change it? There are a few aftermarket cable type setups out there (Lokar) but they aren't cheap. Search this forum to see what grief and hassle others have endured to fit these before you decide the factory stuff is junk.

Make sure you flush the cooler and cooler lines. You don't want trash from your failed transmission to enter the new one.

 

[65barracudadude]

Couldn't have said it any better 6pk2goDemon. I had my distributor cap get munched the first time I did a swap. Definately use 4 jack stands with 4 blocks. Chunks of 4x4 will work. Make sure your on the most level surface you can get it too if doing it on the side of the road. It will be in your best interest. Get a trans. jack. Or a big floor jack will work. Be carefull not to dump fluid out the tail shaft. I use a plug that is made for the job. You can get at auto parts store. It's actually very easy if done that way.

 

[6pk2goDemon]

You can also use a baggie with a rubberband to contain the fluid off the tailshaft.

Good luck.....you can do it. :toothy10:

 

[BWDart]

Pulling tranny by yourself -- 8 hours
Time on the heating pad for the next three days -- 24 hours
Satisfaction of doing the job (and no $$$$) -- priceless