[WANTED] A-833 Front Original Factory Snapring 3.07 Bearing

[eekvonzipper]

First: A Quote from @AJ/FormS
"Ok first off, the Snapring on the front bearing is not standard; you cannot use the one that comes on a new bearing, the retainer will not seal, and you may break it when you tighten the screws... So You Have to Use the Original Factory SnapRing."
Thanks Aj!
I have the Early 833 with the 3.09 1st Gear and the Ball & Trunnion Output
I need the Factory Front Outer Snapring (for a 3.07 Bearing with the 4.354 Retainer)

I have the New One that came with my bearing on there now...
Wondering what the difference is?

 

[AJ/FormS]

I have the New One that came with my bearing on there now...
Wondering what the difference is?

The supplied snapring is quite a bit thicker, and after installation IIRC is slightly too large in diameter to fit in the recess provided for it. Don't quote me on that last bit cuz it's been about 4 decades since I tried to put one together with the wrong snapring,lol.
But for sure, the one that is supplied with the new 307 bearing, is too thick. Lay it into the recess and check to see how proud the new snapring is, out of the recess. Your gasket has to be at least that thick. You might be able to stack gaskets, or cut your own thicker one, to make it work. Doing that is not otherwise a problem. If the retainer does not clamp the gasket securely, then the gasket will weep oil. I you make yur own gasket don't forget to provide a drainback

 

[TheGrateRonzini]

I’m confused. Wouldn’t brewers be supplying the correct one in their kits?

 

[AJ/FormS]

Ok let me rephrase;
I have no idea what Brewers is selling.
If you bought your front bearing at a bearing house, it will come with a too-thick snapring.
Furthermore, the bearings you buy at a bearing house come in two or three different speed ratings. Your bearing needs to be speed rated for your application. If you intend to shift at 5500 or 6000, then your bearing has to be designed to live up there. And your 307 bearing is above the oil level, and gets all it's oiling by splash. You have to remove both front and back metal seals and re-install the factory oil-flinger to keep debris out of it. Oil is the bearing's lube AND coolant. If you leave those metal seals in the bearings I have no idea how long the bearings will last, especially if you bought the cheap bearings with the nylon separators.

 

[eekvonzipper]

The supplied snapring is quite a bit thicker.

Mine Came from Brewers.
My Original parts were all very rusty.
Do you have an extra SnapRing I could use?

 

[AJ/FormS]

Have you checked the compatibility of yours?
A new thicker home-made gasket costs almost nothing. All you need is a knife and scissors. A small hole-punch would be a luxury. In a pinch, I've made gaskets from cereal boxes and such, whatever is the right thickness. But you can buy gasket paper by the roll now.

PS; yur gonna like that 3.09 low.


Posts edited for clarity, please press refresh and reread.

 

[AJ/FormS]

My Original parts were all very rusty.

Rust on these can be wire-wheeled or sanded off. Traces of iron -oxide will not affect anything.

 

[eekvonzipper]

Rust on these can be wire-wheeled or sanded off. Traces of iron -oxide will not affect anything.

True, I do that alot... but these things were salvaged from the Hull of the Titanic.

 

[eekvonzipper]

It's lookin' better now...

 

[AJ/FormS]

Whoa,yur pretty brave.......
I wouldda left that one in the swamp

 

[eekvonzipper]

Whoa,yur pretty brave.......
I woulda left that one in the swamp

I shoulda... It got an Electrolysis Bath and New Internals. It came with my Barracuda purchase so I'm gonna save it!

 

[chignikred]

I have factory spare snap rings. Brewers should also have them.
FYI the bearing issue on rpm and shields really gets down to know how to call out the bearing from a Bearing house. "open Bearing" call out is 6307 NR with no suffix for shielding. Also country of origin matters, with china being at bottom of choice list.