A-833 shifting issue with hurst mechanism

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stingerdart1972

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Hey
Just started to have this funky issue with the way my 833 is shifting, and I'd like to solve this before the install of my new MRL stroker motor.

This tranny has been rebuilt a year ago and has maybe 500 miles on it...

Once in awhile I will shift it into 2nd gear and I'm not able to get it out.

It's also a brand new hurst set-up mounted to the tranny.. seems like a lot of slop in it also? Goes over to the left side to much like when you push over to go into reverse... but your shifting second not all the time ?

Thanks for the help
 
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Check the alignment. If it's not adjusted right then it'll bind and get stuck in gear or refuse to go into gear. Happened to me when I went from a 3 speed to a 4 speed. Took a while to get it shifting right.

There's an alignment hole on the shifter mechanism. Put a pin/bolt through it and adjust the slop out of the rods. Check where the tabs attach to the transmission too. You want ZERO play on the tabs or else they can come loose or damage where they attach to the trans.

But yeah, id check the alignment. It's probably off and is causing you problems. Mess around with it and see if it gets any better or worse.
 
Check the alignment. If it's not adjusted right then it'll bind and get stuck in gear or refuse to go into gear. Happened to me when I went from a 3 speed to a 4 speed. Took a while to get it shifting right.

There's an alignment hole on the shifter mechanism. Put a pin/bolt through it and adjust the slop out of the rods. Check where the tabs attach to the transmission too. You want ZERO play on the tabs or else they can come loose or damage where they attach to the trans.

But yeah, id check the alignment. It's probably off and is causing you problems. Mess around with it and see if it gets any better or worse.

Shifter rods are right on no slop

How would you check alignment ?

How much slop would you allow the hurst mechanism have ?
 
Shifter rods are right on no slop

How would you check alignment ?

How much slop would you allow the hurst mechanism have ?

If it gives you any idea, this was way too sloppy to work in the car:


I know it's not the best video but it's the only one I've got. Cheap shifter rods were a pain too. Took a lot of effort to get those to work right.

To check the alignment you'll need a bolt that fits tight through the alignment hole so that where the rods attach to the shifter won't move. You want a nice smooth movement as you move the shifter from side to side and no slop when you move it forward or back. As little slop as possible all around is ideal. Find the right rod for 1st and 2nd and try adjusting the threads one revolution at a time to see if that helps/hurts. You should be able to adjust out most of the slop and I bet that helps your issue. It's just something you're going to have to fiddle with until it works right.

I'm no 4 speed guru but I've had problems similar to yours and it was due to a sloppy adjustment. The more slop that went away, the better the shifting experience was. Still feels way different than a modern transmission though.
 
If it gives you any idea, this was way too sloppy to work in the car:


I know it's not the best video but it's the only one I've got. Cheap shifter rods were a pain too. Took a lot of effort to get those to work right.

To check the alignment you'll need a bolt that fits tight through the alignment hole so that where the rods attach to the shifter won't move. You want a nice smooth movement as you move the shifter from side to side and no slop when you move it forward or back. As little slop as possible all around is ideal. Find the right rod for 1st and 2nd and try adjusting the threads one revolution at a time to see if that helps/hurts. You should be able to adjust out most of the slop and I bet that helps your issue. It's just something you're going to have to fiddle with until it works right.

I'm no 4 speed guru but I've had problems similar to yours and it was due to a sloppy adjustment. The more slop that went away, the better the shifting experience was. Still feels way different than a modern transmission though.


I spent big bucks on the hurst set up and the pistol grip for my bench seat.

Wonder if the mech is faulty
 
The most common problem is the nuts on the external flat levers coming loose from the internal pins. I loctited the heck outta mine; but you have to be careful that the locking agent does not migrate up the tunnel/tube! This is very difficult to successfully do with the cover installed, but not impossible. I just continued with the shift rod install and setting of the neutral gate. And shifted the tranny a few times as the loctite cured.
Also make sure the adapter plate is secured to the trans. It also has a habit of working loose over time, especially if the oem "star" washers are missing. Then you have to loctite those three special fasteners too.
I use red on the lever-nuts, and blue on the adapter.
New spring-washers seem to work fine on the two shifter mounting bolts.

If you want to cure the shifting blues forever;
get you some 7/16" seamless tubing and make your own rods. That will or should cure the rubber-band feeling, and missed shifts will almost be a thing of the past.
Then get rid of that truck shifter-handle. Put a short lever on there and fold it over closer to your mid-thigh, where you can put some power on it, by pushing off with your back firmly planted in the seat-back.
If you have a bench seat, you are doomed.You will need to take your time, forever,lol.
 
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