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Mouse action

Mouse action

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I have a 64 valiant with a 273 ,what motors will fit without changing any thing I got now
Like trans,exhaust,motor mounts,rad.etc.?…
Thanks.
 
Mouse action said:
I have a 64 valiant with a 273 ,what motors will fit without changing any thing I got now
Like trans,exhaust,motor mounts,rad.etc.?…
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that your early 273 has a smaller snout on the converter. Starting in '66, I believe, 273, 318, 340 & 360 engines had a bigger register in the crank and corresponding bigger snout on their converters. Unfortunately, it's not a simple converter swap because the input shaft splines are different between the small and big snout converters, so you'll need a later trans also. (Unless you get yours rebuilt by a knowledgeable Torqueflite mechanic who knows what has to be changed out/modified so you can keep everything else as-is.)

When looking at later transmissions, late '70's started using lock-up converters. Those converters don't interchange with earlier versions as well because of the splines and lock up features that extend to the valve body also.

Your trans is a 904.

With a bigger engine, it might be worth considering upgrading your brakes, for when you might want to "enjoy" the extra HP!
 
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Mouse action said:
I have a 64 valiant with a 273 ,what motors will fit without changing any thing I got now
Like trans,exhaust,motor mounts,rad.etc.?…
Thanks.
Click to expand...

273 or 318. Use an adapter to adapt the larger torque converter hub on a 1968 up crank. A 273 will work great in a 64 Valiant with some easy upgrades.
 
Mouse action said:
I have a 64 valiant with a 273 ,what motors will fit without changing any thing I got now
Like trans,exhaust,motor mounts,rad.etc.?…
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Without changing anything? Another 273 2bbl. Minor mods.... most 318 long blocks before '75 will swap right in if you use your 273 parts, you'll just need a crank bushing for your '64 904 trans converter, or a later Magnum pilot bearing for a manual trans. A 340 would require engine mount mods, and major exhaust work to make it work properly with the 340 heads. With a 360, you need the same mods as the 340 along with" a 360 car oil pan that will fit the '62-6 K-member, remark the 360 balancer for the passenger side timing indicator or you will have a hard time seeing the driver's side one to set the timing, conversion flex plate or weighed converter, or, a custom balanced flywheel for a stock manual trans setup. If you go with a 4bbl on any of the swaps involving an auto trans, you'll also need to get a 4bbl kickdown assembly, or, a Lokar cable kit to convert from a 2bbl. A 4bbl air cleaner too.
 
Depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you want more horsepower a 318 is probably the best bang for the buck. It's also easier and cheaper to get pistons for. If you find a cracked head on your '64 (assuming it's stock and has the 315 casting heads) finding another one is getting a bit hard to find these days. Going with the later heads is an option, but, it would require a later intake to match. Everything else internally is pretty much the same between a 273 and 318 interchangewise. If you're looking for max MPG, stick with the 273.
 
Mouse action said:
So,,,as it is my best bet is to build my 273 and keep it simple ?…
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Probably since I know the surrounding area junkyards are void of any old MoPar stuff and an older local 318 is a gamble. If you can find that old of a 318 to begin with.

All the parts for your rebuild are on the shelf except pistons and rings & valves for the head should not be to hard to find. A place like Hughes engines or other shop or piston manufacturer should be able to get you new slugs easy enough, but probably only in a cast piston.
 
66fs said:
Yes, what are do you want out of your 64 Valiant?
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Not looking to build a race car .it has a 4bbl dual exhaust and I was told 318 heads ?.. Right now it just sounds like a car with loud exhaust.
 
273/318 heads are the same exact thing. Now later year 318 heads have minor changes in them with the biggest being the 302 & then into the Magnum heads… ops, sorry, different horse….
 
  • Best info I have.
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There's not another engine AT ALL that will work 100% without changing SOMETHING.
 
Mouse action said:
Not looking to build a race car .it has a 4bbl dual exhaust and I was told 318 heads ?.. Right now it just sounds like a car with loud exhaust.
Click to expand...

318 heads are a power loss, but not worth changing. At least you can now run regular gas. Do you know how to use a timing light? It might be worth pulling a valve cover and checking what head castings you have and see if you still have the mechanical valve rockers. Probably the best bang for the buck now is a cam, valve springs to match, and a double roller timing chain. You can tune it to the max anytime.
 
Mouse action said:
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Sorry brother, I’d take most of that info and throw it in the burning fire place and smile. 2 inch exhaust and Flowmaster 40’s? Oh dear heaven!
Best flowing turbo mufflers;
DynoMax turbo or Summits turbo (Headthrob)
Best chamber muffler Hooker Aero Chamber
Use a 2-1/4 pipe for the 273.
Dual exhaust would be very good to do if that isn’t already the plan. Use an H or X pipe.

What rear end do you have in the car now. IF! It is a 7-1/4, then the upgrade to the Ford or a Chrysler 8-1/4 could be understood if the car is going to see a good bit of “Spirted Driving” exercises. If your just out putting around town, I would not worry.
 
If he's using the stock 273 exhaust manifolds, even 1 7/8" exhaust would be big enough....might even improve low end torque and exhaust scavaging.
 
cudamark said:
If he's using the stock 273 exhaust manifolds, even 1 7/8" exhaust would be big enough....might even improve low end torque and exhaust scavaging.
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For a 2bbl. Hwy mileage master….. maybe…..
Doubt IT! and would lay out a 4 digit bet of cash I’ll out torque you by 20% on that single 1-7/8.
 
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