Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
I want to add a pass side E body LCA to my 63 dart for a camber increase (high banked dirt track, 9" drum brakes). Is this a bolt in? If not what needs machined? Thank you for your time. RR
A body/E body LCA difference Question
- Thread starter Rapid Robert
- Start date
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The B and E LCAs are actually about 1/2" shorter from pivot pin to lower ball joint.
This is an A LCA:
The A is about 12 5/8" center to center.
The B LCA:
The B is about 12 1/8" center to center and the locating pin is a larger diameter. The pin could be swapped to an A size but you're still dealing with heavy positive camber....the opposite of what you want.
You'd be better off using hardened washers between the ball joint and steering knuckle.
This gives approx 2 degrees when you use a 3/16" washer. Mancini Racing has them OR you can go to ACE hardware....
Finally, for me, the easiest way to differentiate a B/E LCA and an A version is....the B/E is curved along the bottom like so:
This is an A LCA:
The A is about 12 5/8" center to center.
The B LCA:
The B is about 12 1/8" center to center and the locating pin is a larger diameter. The pin could be swapped to an A size but you're still dealing with heavy positive camber....the opposite of what you want.
You'd be better off using hardened washers between the ball joint and steering knuckle.
This gives approx 2 degrees when you use a 3/16" washer. Mancini Racing has them OR you can go to ACE hardware....
Finally, for me, the easiest way to differentiate a B/E LCA and an A version is....the B/E is curved along the bottom like so:
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
Good stuff! Dog I owe ya
C-body perhaps? For longer lower?
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
Yes longer lower
I'm sure a C lower isn't a true bolt in. But, where there's a will......
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
The start for me would be to find the C body dimentions. I will check into that, thanks bro. RR
C body lower ball joint is too different. The strut rod and sway bar positioning is strange too. The lower control arm bushing wont accommodate the A body locating pin/shaft.
Stick with the A body LCA....You can stack washers between the knuckle/spindle and lower ball joint to get some crazy negative camber.
Stick with the A body LCA....You can stack washers between the knuckle/spindle and lower ball joint to get some crazy negative camber.
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Take 2 A body LCA. Cut each in the same place but however much longer you want the arm to be and weld them together. With reinforcement plates it will be good to go and probably be stronger than stock.
I like post #2 fix/ rig. I like easy peasy !
So do as indicated above.. washers/spacers to lengthen right side along with offset upper bushings if more is needed. on left side grind mounting pads on balljoint/spindle to gain some along with offset upper bushings .
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
dynamite info, I am impressed! this oughta be plenty to get me going. I didn't even think of the UCA bushings. thanks again guys! RR. PS any thoughts on toe out?
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
Alright! All noted & we should be kicking some chebby butt come next april. this 63 dart/360/904/7&1/4 (welded spiders) is going to come in way lighter than them. My buddy complained that it was pushing in the corners & your alignment specs will resolve that. Thank you! RR
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Buy a set of HDK small ball joint tubular UCAs with adjustable ends (poly or heims). Designed for the HDK coil over conversion but used on any A-body to improve / or add additional caster / camber without putting the UCA in a bind. Available in big and small ball joint applications....$298 complete (plus shipping)
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