A-Body Round #2- My '76 Scamp restore...
- Thread starter rich_mc
- Start date
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Thanks. Will do. My thoughts on the late model A's have certainly changed over the years... Way back when I had my 72 I thought that would be the latest year I'd ever want and hated the beak models... but now years later I've got a beakster and really like it!
I'd eventually like to modify the bumpers to get rid of the rubber behind them and tuck them in so they don't have the 5 mph look of the late models, but from what I'm reading that is a pretty big job and will require cutting/welding/rechroming... It'll be a while before that gets to the top of the list... Though I think I may pull the bumpers and at least paint the rubbers this year... The rubbers are in surprising solid condition, but are faded grey... at least darkening them up and getting them consistent would help.
Another nice thing about it being a late model and not quite as collectible is that I can do modifications that I like, without much concern for wanting to keep it original. The freedom is enjoyable.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Maybe I missed it, went back and looked. What size tires?
Tires are 225/45/18 in Continental DWS06.
Wheels are American Racing AR904 in 18x8. They're a 6.25" backspace but I got a 1" wheel adapter to go between them and the hub on the front based on a bunch of reading I did and I "think" they're going to clear ok, but won't know for sure until I get to lower it down to ground again. For now moving them in the air, it looks like they should clear.
On the rear, the 8.75 I got it out of a b-body so a couple inches longer, but I think that'll work in my favor on the rear - I'm expecting to probably use the same 1" spacers on the back like I did the front. I'll probably get around to bolting a tire on the rear in the next day or two once I get to get pick up some lug nuts.
I'd have loved to fill the rear wheelwells up a bit more and might eventually, but for now with the stock slant 6 at it's whopping 94 HP (or whatever low number it makes
) should be sufficient.
Pretty stoked... turns out the sway bar from the 7.25 must be a combo unit that also works with the 8.75... bolted right in and just had to leave out these little u-shaped spacers that fill the difference in OD between the two different housing tube diameters... saved $440 that way!
And more good news. Looks like the b-body rear with the 6.25 backspace wheels should work pretty much perfect without any wheel spacer. The pics below include a 1.25" thick wheel spacer temporarily (the wheels take a small body lug nut. I only have that style lug nut in metric to fit the wheel spacer. Got the 1/2-20 small body lug nuts ordered arriving tomorrow so then I'll be able to bolt the wheel directly to the axle).
Thankfully, I'm turning out to like the wheels well enough- I was a bit concerned a while back that they might be too modern... will be able to tell better once it's on the ground again.
Thankfully, I'm turning out to like the wheels well enough- I was a bit concerned a while back that they might be too modern... will be able to tell better once it's on the ground again.
Finally got the right lug nuts today and was able to get the rear tire mounted up without the spacer... looks good... actually have tons of room...
It's only temporary as I still have some stuff to do, but needed to load the suspension in order to measure for the driveshaft. Regardless, pretty exciting to be off the jack stands for the first time since July!
I got a better picture in the sunlight today. Also measured for the driveshaft so I can get that in process.
Even though the pre-bent exhaust I bought doesn't fit at all, I've at least got the headpipe on and fired it up so the PS pump would run and I could check tire clearance. The fronts with the 1.25" wheel spacer clear well... well enough that I think I'll lower the front a bit more before I would take it in for alignment.
Even though the pre-bent exhaust I bought doesn't fit at all, I've at least got the headpipe on and fired it up so the PS pump would run and I could check tire clearance. The fronts with the 1.25" wheel spacer clear well... well enough that I think I'll lower the front a bit more before I would take it in for alignment.
Got the new master cylinder bench bled and the short lines hooked from it to the proportional valve, so now all the brake lines are connected. Went ahead and installed the pads in the calipers. Put the gear oil and friction modifier in the rear end housing. Got the emergency brake cables connected. And got the caliper bolts all loctited and torqued to spec... its back on the jackstands with the front high and rear low since I'm gonna try the gravity bleed method to fill the lines. I've got more time than help available, so hopefully it works for filling the whole system.
Also got the new driveshaft ordered and it should ship early next week from these guys I found a recommendation for here on this forum. Driveshaft Specialist Home
This weekend will be trying to get fluid into the brake system and bled, and hopefully getting the hellwig sway bar mounted on the front... seems I'm getting dangerously close to being able to drive it again soon.
Also got the new driveshaft ordered and it should ship early next week from these guys I found a recommendation for here on this forum. Driveshaft Specialist Home
This weekend will be trying to get fluid into the brake system and bled, and hopefully getting the hellwig sway bar mounted on the front... seems I'm getting dangerously close to being able to drive it again soon.
Buy a vacuum bleeder, they work really good for pulling fluid thru the system.
I have a couple, the one I like best hooks up to an air compressor.
I have a couple, the one I like best hooks up to an air compressor.
Thanks. I had an irritating day on the car yesterday. The gravity method worked for filling most of the lines but wasn't seeming to get bubbles out. Ended up running to O'Reilly and getting one of the MityVac hand pumps...what a piece of junk it was... I'll either try a compressor driven one, or wait a few more days until my son gets back from his mom's and can help pumping the pedal.
Do not pump the pedal, do this instead.
Open the brake bleeder.
Have somebody slowly push down on the pedal, hold.
Close the bleeder.
Release the pedal.
It will push the air out, do it a couple times to each bleeder and its done.
Open the brake bleeder.
Have somebody slowly push down on the pedal, hold.
Close the bleeder.
Release the pedal.
It will push the air out, do it a couple times to each bleeder and its done.
Ended up giving it another try this morning. Didn't have anyone available to help so tried this method of hose in a bottle with fluid in bottom and leaving the bleeder open. Seemed to work well and I now have a firm pedal... may still do it again when I have a 2nd person available before the car is officially on the road again, but for now I'm happy with it.
Got the Hellwig mostly mounted on the front. Got one of the holes Drilled in a control arm to mount it and figured out I can't get a wrench inside the control arm since I did the boxing/stiffeners on the control arm. Instead, Got the local mobile welder lined up to come over on Tuesday night to stick the brackets to the arm instead. I have a flux core welder and am ok at tacking stuff, but for something that needs to actually stay connected, I'll hire the guy that knows what he is doing.
New driveshaft shipped and is due to be here tomorrow! Need to find someone to do alignment. I'm striking out with all the places in my region that I've called. Apparently the current style of alignment equipment slips over the tires and the skirted rear fenders keep that style of machine from working. I'm told I need to find a place with an older style of machine where it clamps onto the face of the wheel instead... I'm sure I'll find the right place once I keep looking long enough.
Brackets welded on and sway bar installed. It turned out to be an easier job than expected.
New driveshaft is in and installed. Adjusted the E-brake to where I think the tension is off at rest. Topped off the tranny fluid that leaked out while the shaft was out. Adjusted the length of the master cylinder pushrod so the brake light works and the pedal feels to be in the right spot. Needs a quick test drive, but I think it's ready to go in for alignment and exhaust install.
Seems phase 2 is coming to a close, so now I'll spend the summer contemplating phase 3, which will be what to do with this engine...
Seems phase 2 is coming to a close, so now I'll spend the summer contemplating phase 3, which will be what to do with this engine...
Drove it down to the cul-de-sac and back this morning. Goes in for alignment on Monday AM. Yay!
Alignment is done. Dropped it off after that at the exhaust shop. Hoping they can get the exhaust installed tomorrow. I bought the prebent TTI system for it, which doesn't fit at all... I saw some pics of TTI installed on some A's older than mine and they looked to fit well... thinking maybe some changes were made on the late models that didn't get caught in the system design... Anyway, the only part of the system I left installed from my attempt to put it on was the headpipe, which pretty much touches the Floorpan... just while loading the car on the trailer and in the lot at the alignment shop I've noticed a pretty bad rattle when the car is in reverse... it didn't make that sound when I started the project last July...I'm hoping the rattle turns out to be the headpipe hitting the floor and it goes away once the exhaust guys mod the prebent system to fit.
Just drove it home from the muffler shop! The rattle does appear to have been the headpipe which the exhaust guys fixed. Let it run in the driveway a little bit once home and noticed a little oil puddle below the filter, so may do an oil change this afternoon and then maybe go for a cruise this evening. Pretty stoked to have it back on the road after being on jackstands since July!
Got the oil changed this afternoon and a quick wash... then my son and I did the inaugural pizza run tonight. Drives excellent. Old guy that used old bubble level equipment for the alignment did a spectacular job; runs straight as an arrow... I'm really stoked about it.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Looks great!
Thanks!
I know you were asking about wheel/tire sizes before. I've got it sitting about 25.5" to top of fenderwell. So far, only rub I've noticed was on front drivers side when slightly turned and pulling a slight uphill into a parking lot. I'll have to evaluate further to determine if I'll adjust the height up a little or if I'll just learn to recognize when it rubs and avoid that.
I did that way and used a bottle with hose filled with fluid about halfway worked great. The hose you connect to the bleeder loose. I taped the top hose in hole cap it's a vacuum seems to be easy fix. Oh chocolate milk from 7 eleven or QT small 12 ounce worked great lol! Obviously drink the milk first clean it out hahaha. The bottle lets you bleed brakes solo.
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