A/C blowing cool not cold...

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ljayp44

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I have a '73 Dart Swinger, 318 2bbl all stock, stock A/C RV2 compressor. I bought the car two years ago and never really use the A/C. The other day it was hot and turned it on. Compressor kicked on and got cool air, definitely not cold, but cooler than on vent. I looked through the records that I got with when purchased and the system was flushed and filled in 2007 with R-12 and was noted in working order on shop receipt. Also noted in the sight glass some bubbles. I have an R-12 can and was wondering if all it may need is a charge. Also if I charge it on the schraeder valve on the head of the compressor itself.... any help would be greatly appreciated, Thank You in advance....:thumleft:
 
Some minor bubbles are ok. If it kinda looks like foam or like a beer head flowing past the sight glass it's low on charge. The proper way to check it & charge it is by putting a set of gauges on it & checking the pressures. If you don't have gauges & are going to charge it from a can, make sure it's R-12 & hasn't been retrofitted with something else. You have to charge it through the Low pressure or Suction side of the system with cans. This is the fatter line coming out of the firewall(evaporator) & going back to the compressor. You must not charge into the Hi side(Liquid line) with a can. The Hi side would be the line running from the compressor to the front out to the condenser in front of the radiator. You don't want that one! Just charge it enough so the bubbles go away. Once you see the bubbles stop STOP Charging. Over charging the system is just as bad or worse than an under-charged system.
I hope this helps. PM me if you have any more questions. Good luck! Be cool!
 
I had a hunch it was that, but wanted to double check with fellow owners with more knowledge on here and that was a great explaination....Mucho Gracias, LoneWolf!
 
If the Freon charge is low enough the low pressure switch would cycle the compumper off and on repeatedly.
The first thing I would check is the water shut off valve. It's mounted on right inner fender. Has heater hoses and a vacuum hose attached.
 
I just checked, found that valve online for short money and looks easy enough to check/replace....Thanks RedFish!
 
Also just found this cool series of original master tech videos on YouTube
[ame]http://youtu.be/I1gYGsL7iaY[/ame]
 
If you add R12 through the service port on the compressor cylinder head make to add it as a gas only, inverting the can will cause the R12 to go in as a liquid and compressors don't like compressing liquids. In the case of the RV Compressor you damage the reed valves which results in little of no cooling.
 
Here's a quick trick to check the Heater (water) control valve: Snap a pair of needle nose vice grips over the heater hose in front of the valve (pinching down on the hose thus closing it off) If the ac gets a whole lot colder, then you should replace the valve (Although I have driven half a summer with the vice grips on the hose)
 
Uh, ?? what's wrong with feeling the heater hoses and see if they are hot?
 
A/C on the Swinger was recharged succesfully with R-12. I actually checked the water valve also before I charged it. I ended up using a vaccuum gauge to make sure that the valve was getting a vaccuum from the dash end and it was then I took a vaccuum brake bleeder with the engine off and applied a vaccuum to the water valve and could hear it opening and closing. After the recharge, hoses are cool and A/C is cold!... Thanks again everyone for your help!
 
Uh, ?? what's wrong with feeling the heater hoses and see if they are hot?

Nothing, but it doesn't give you much info. Shutting down the flow can tell you if the ac system is working well without any additional hot water in the system.

In the time it takes you to touch the hose, I can completely eliminate the question of water leakage through the valve with a pair of vice grips. It's an old AC shop trick. And if I'm stuck out on the road with a bad heater valve, I can drive home nice and cool.
 
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