A few questions about to do an engine swap...

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LivewireBlanco

LivewireBlanco

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Ok I'm about to swap a 318 I in place of the 225 and I have a few questions. First a little history. I've never had this car running and its new to me. There is a lot of wiring that looks like it's been spliced and/or chewed up. Also there looks to be any extra ballast resister in the center of the firewall. Also this is a 71 dart and I have that complicated fuel tank. How should i best go about removing the slant 6 and hooking up the 318? I've never taken on anything like this before and I'm going to have plenty of questions. One final question, what is the black circular canister on the back passenger side of the engine bay and do I need it with the 318? Thank you!

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One thing I can tell you is that back canister is a vaciumreservoir that comes on all A.C. equipped cars. It holds enough vacuum to operate the A.C. controls at all times.
As far as wiring, I got a factory service manual and chased each wire back one by one till I had a good original harness again. It' not near as hard as it sounds.
I think the simplest way to go from 6 cyl. to v8 would be the conversion mounts that use the 6 cyl k frame.
Good luck with your project. Are you keeping the A.C.?
Cley
 
You do realize that the 318 will not bolt up to the slant transmission so you will need a LA904 or 727. i’d Probably use a load lever and pull the engine and transmission as a unit. If you’re going to use the original wiring harness, the coil and oil pressure wiring will need to be shortened - loop it back and secure it to the harness. If you’re planning on keeping the AC, bear in mind that you will need the compressor V8 mounting brackets- slant brackets won’t work.
 
I already have a 904 for a V8, just needing a torque converter for it at the moment. As for the AC, I'm not sure if I want it or not. I know the blower motor works but I have no idea if the AC works. This is going to be a fun car and not a daily driver so I'm not too concerned about AC, however if all I need is the V8 bracket and it lines up with the pulley's then I'll keep it. My other problem is finding everything to work with the power steering. The 318 I have is actually a 318-3 and I've swapped the manifold with a performer, added a Holley 600 and put a new cam, lifters, springs, and timing chain. This has been a HUGE learning experience so far.
 
There is tons of red on FABO about swaps. I would download or buy a FSM for your car. I would check out the wiring with good battery, and get the slant running if you are to do a swap, especially if you want to sell/give slant away. That way you can be checking out wiring problems while you get the V8. Your OEM slant harness can be made to work but if it is 40 years old, you might consider a new repop one for v8.
Like mentioned, going to a V8 from slant requires, conversion engine brackets or change out K member for v8 one, radiator, transmission, you will eventually change out rear end/driveshaft, maybe better brakes.....
 
barbee6043 said:
There is tons of red on FABO about swaps. I would download or buy a FSM for your car. I would check out the wiring with good battery, and get the slant running if you are to do a swap, especially if you want to sell/give slant away. That way you can be checking out wiring problems while you get the V8. Your OEM slant harness can be made to work but if it is 40 years old, you might consider a new repop one for v8.
Like mentioned, going to a V8 from slant requires, conversion engine brackets or change out K member for v8 one, radiator, transmission, you will eventually change out rear end/driveshaft, maybe better brakes.....
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I've been doing my homework for a while. The V8 is built, the transmission is ready, the conversion mounts are on the 318, I'm now pretty much down to pulling the slant 6. A new wiring harness may not be a bad idea considering the condition of this one. I'm still trying to figure out why there are 2 ballast resistors...
 
The only two ballast resisters I see in your pictures are one on the drivers side which would be for your ignition and one on your 2 speed wiper motor for your wiper motor. if there is another, I don't see it.
 
The center "ballast resistor" is for dropping the voltage to the wiper motor to give the low speed of the wipers.
It just lowers the voltage to the wiper motor so it runs slower.
 
Kernel Sanders said:
The only two ballast resisters I see in your pictures are one on the drivers side which would be for your ignition and one on your 2 speed wiper motor for your wiper motor. if there is another, I don't see it.
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Thank you! This is all new to me and I didn't know the wipers needed one. I'm coming from a 2012 Dodge Charger so this old school stuff is all new to me!
 
I did this swap in my Valiant, used the Schumacher adapter mounts, /6 out and 318 in in one afternoon. We reused the wiring, just label everything as you take it off the 6 and it shouldn't be hard to reconnect. It looks like you could probably use the /6 radiator, but the way the hoses line up with the radiator inlet isn't great. Also, if you change the length on the trans cooler lines, make sure to flare the ends of your connection, or else you'll throw atf all over your engine bay...
 
68Valiant225 said:
I did this swap in my Valiant, used the Schumacher adapter mounts, /6 out and 318 in in one afternoon. We reused the wiring, just label everything as you take it off the 6 and it shouldn't be hard to reconnect. It looks like you could probably use the /6 radiator, but the way the hoses line up with the radiator inlet isn't great. Also, if you change the length on the trans cooler lines, make sure to flare the ends of your connection, or else you'll throw atf all over your engine bay...
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The wiring I'm not too worried about, it's the vacuum hoses and pulleys I'm starting to be concerned about.
 
LivewireBlanco said:
The wiring I'm not too worried about, it's the vacuum hoses and pulleys I'm starting to be concerned about.
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Without power brakes, it's a bit simpler on the vacuum, although I don't know anything about that ac stuff. Definitely make sure you a plug on the intake manifold of the 318 that would normally provide vacuum to the brake booster, if the 318 came off a power brakes car. If that leaks, you'll get really frustrated at your car running rough.
 
Coming from a 2012 Charger eh?

That's abit unusual but you will love it!

The self satisfaction you gain will make you feel like a million bucks!

Good Luck, go slow and have fun!
 
Mopar Al said:
Do yourself a BIG favor and take the engine, trans out from the bottom.
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I know a lot of people say this, but unless you are planning on redoing a front end anyways i dont see the advantage of disconnecting the entire front suspension and steering and dropping a k frame. It's pretty simple to go in from above.

Headers are a pain maybe, normal exhaust is pretty simple.
 
Got the slant pulled. Went from the top with the rear end jacked up. Thanks guys! I'll be posting in the V8 section soon!

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If you were closer I would take the 225 and tranny off your hands. Looking for a runner right now.
 
Verify that the steering linkage will work w/ the V-8. Looks like ~1971 model. In early A's (1964-66), the V-8 needs a cross-link which drops ~1" lower than the slant PN. I haven't heard that for 1967+ cars, but research. Insure the snout on the torque converter matches the hole on your crankshaft end. The size changed ~1968. You need an adapter bushing to match a later engine to an early transmission. Also, I think the crank hole differed in manual transmission cars to fit the pilot bearing. Usually, all underhood wiring is old and friable, so best to change it all, unless you like to deal with constant problems and perhaps engine bay fires.
 
The 6-cylinder (shallow-drop) vs. V8 (deep-drop) centre link was '64-only. Prior to '64, the A-bodies were all 6-cylinder cars and all had shallow-drop centre links. In '64 that continued for the Sixes, while the V8s got a new deep-drop centre link. For '65 that deep-drop centre link was used on all cars, regardless of engine, and that's how it was done (only one kind of centre link) for '67, then for '68, then for '73.
 
Gonna slap some paint on that engine bay with the slantie out?
 
Terrific
My duster is EV2 (orange) but the original color was green
It got repainted before I ever got it...one day I was sitting in it and noticed it has green seatbelts
 
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