A few questions regarding rewiring job

[straightlinespeed]

Im almost done with wiring my car and Im stuck on the headlight switch to start. As I look at my service manual, I think I have all but one termination point figured out. I just want to tell you what I plan on terminating to what points.

Terminal H-Goes down to the dimmer switch on the floor to give power to headlights
Terminal R- Goes to the front and rear parking lights
Terminal B1- is the main power for the headlights
Terminal B2- I have no idea what goes on this one??? Please let me know
Terminal D- Goes to the Dome light
The other terminal that goes to the rheostat is for the gauge lights

View attachment headlight switch.jpg

Glove box light, I assume I just need to get a power wire to the light and it grounds itself out?

Key light, is this light on 100% of the time the headlights are on or does this shut off originally with the time delay relay?

Map Light Switch, I tried to test mine to see if it was good, but not quite understanding how it works. I tried to do a continuity test on it so see if I flipped the switch it made contact, but it didnt. Should it? If not how do I wire this switch in? I could not find anything on this in my manuals.

Ok last question is the ignition.

I'm running a EZ Harness and I've seen a few threads that say wires need to get connected together and other switched, although Im running HEI in my car so I dont have the ballast resistor or any of that stuff. Im not sure if I still have to switch my wires or just wire it like EZ says. So here is how EZ says I should wire it, let me know if I should wire it this way or change it up.

Ignition Power Red to Column Red (power)
Ignition Pink to Column Brown (ignition 2)
Ignition Acc Orange to Column Blue (ignition 1)
Ignition Acc Brown to Column Black (ignition acc)
Ignition Start Purple to Column Yellow (start)

I studied the schematics for a long time tonight to try to find the answers to my questions, but I think I was starting to over think how some of this should work so I just want to double check. Thanks so much in advance.

 

[67Dart273]

Im almost done with wiring my car and Im stuck on the headlight switch to start. As I look at my service manual, I think I have all but one termination point figured out. I just want to tell you what I plan on terminating to what points.

Terminal H-Goes down to the dimmer switch on the floor to give power to headlights
Terminal R- Goes to the front and rear parking lights
Terminal B1- is the main power for the headlights
Terminal B2- I have no idea what goes on this one??? Please let me know
Terminal D- Goes to the Dome light
The other terminal that goes to the rheostat is for the gauge lights.

There are two feeds TO the switch. The B1 is for the headlights ONLY. Originally, this came off the no1 splice in the black ammeter wire up under the dash. It was UNfused, and the headlight circuit is protected -- to some extent -- by a breaker in the switch

The B2 is the second feed TO the switch. This originally came off your tail light fuse. This powers park and tail, and the instrument lamps.

The original instrument fuse "was a trick. Instrument lamp power came FROM this tail circuit in the switch, through and OUT the dimmer control, and THEN TO the instrument fuse in the fusebox. This was on the tan wire. Then THROUGH the inst. fuse, and then out to all dash dimmer controlled lamps on the orange wiring

The D terminal is the ground / switch for the dome circuit. When you twist the dimmer all the way to the left, that terminal is grounded and

Glove box light, I assume I just need to get a power wire to the light and it grounds itself out?

Yes. Make sure it's fused

Key light, is this light on 100% of the time the headlights are on or does this shut off originally with the time delay relay?.

Originally went through a delay. I don't believe it stays on

Ok last question is the ignition.

I'm running a EZ Harness and I've seen a few threads that say wires need to get connected together and other switched, although Im running HEI in my car so I dont have the ballast resistor or any of that stuff. Im not sure if I still have to switch my wires or just wire it like EZ says. So here is how EZ says I should wire it, let me know if I should wire it this way or change it up.

Ignition Power Red to Column Red (power)
Ignition Pink to Column Brown (ignition 2)
Ignition Acc Orange to Column Blue (ignition 1)
Ignition Acc Brown to Column Black (ignition acc)
Ignition Start Purple to Column Yellow (start)

The brown is hot to bypass the coil resistor in "start." The blue and brown (ign 1 and ign2) need to be jumpered together at some point if you have no ballast, because IGN1 goes dead during start

Black is hot in "run" or "acc" and feeds power TO the switched buss in the fuse panel, IE everything that goes through the key, like signals, radio, heater, etc

Yellow is your "start" wire which fires the start relay.

 

[straightlinespeed]

There are two feeds TO the switch. The B1 is for the headlights ONLY. Originally, this came off the no1 splice in the black ammeter wire up under the dash. It was UNfused, and the headlight circuit is protected -- to some extent -- by a breaker in the switch

The B2 is the second feed TO the switch. This originally came off your tail light fuse. This powers park and tail, and the instrument lamps.

So Im confused a bit with this part. I only have 4 wires to hook up. These are the wires that I have. Headlight switch power, dimmer power, front park and tail park.

From reading the schematic, it appears that front park and tail park went to the R-terminal. Dimmer power goes down to the dimmer switch to power the headlights.

So do I need to make a jumper wire to jump from B1 to B2, to power up the R-terminal?


The original instrument fuse "was a trick. Instrument lamp power came FROM this tail circuit in the switch, through and OUT the dimmer control, and THEN TO the instrument fuse in the fusebox. This was on the tan wire. Then THROUGH the inst. fuse, and then out to all dash dimmer controlled lamps on the orange wiring

The D terminal is the ground / switch for the dome circuit. When you twist the dimmer all the way to the left, that terminal is grounded. Perfect, at least I have this part correct!




Yes. Make sure it's fused

Good call, what amp rating fuse do you think I should run?


Originally went through a delay. I don't believe it stays on

I will not be hooking this wire up then, thank you!

The brown is hot to bypass the coil resistor in "start." The blue and brown (ign 1 and ign2) need to be jumpered together at some point if you have no ballast, because IGN1 goes dead during start

I could just install a jumper wire at one side of the connector correct?, but still have the wires terminate to the colors that they recommended?

Black is hot in "run" or "acc" and feeds power TO the switched buss in the fuse panel, IE everything that goes through the key, like signals, radio, heater, etc

Yellow is your "start" wire which fires the start relay.

Del, thank you for your expertise with wiring, you have saved me more than once!

 

[67Dart273]

Headlight.........don't jumper B1-B2. The reason the factory did it that way was to provide minimal circuit protection, while MINIMIZING headlamp failure due to "other circuit" problems. If you jumper B1-B2, you will be interconnecting headlight power to the tail/ park/ inst lamp power, so if there's a short /failure in any of those circuits YOU MAY LOSE headlights, and you sure don't want that, in the dark of night "at speed."

You need to provide a fused circuit for B2, hot all the time, with a 20A fuse from the fuse panel. I would think there would be a circuit for that.

Glove box fuse..........don't know how may fuses in the panel you have. You might rob that off the dome circuit

IGN1 IGN2. I would be tempted to jumper it out in the engine bay as if original, in case you ever decide to run something (like the mopar breakerless) that needs a ballast

 

[straightlinespeed]

Headlight.........don't jumper B1-B2. The reason the factory did it that way was to provide minimal circuit protection, while MINIMIZING headlamp failure due to "other circuit" problems. If you jumper B1-B2, you will be interconnecting headlight power to the tail/ park/ inst lamp power, so if there's a short /failure in any of those circuits YOU MAY LOSE headlights, and you sure don't want that, in the dark of night "at speed."

You need to provide a fused circuit for B2, hot all the time, with a 20A fuse from the fuse panel. I would think there would be a circuit for that.

After you explained above, I threw my meter on the headlight switch so that I understood what you were saying. Then I double checked what you said against the manual. I really wish that reading schematics was as easy as you make it sound. I like to understand whats going on just so I know how these things work. With that being said I had a couple left over power wires that I didnt use on my car. I robbed the one that was suppose to be for the door locks which had a 20amp fuse and ran that to B2.

Glove box fuse..........don't know how may fuses in the panel you have. You might rob that off the dome circuit

This brings me to, the proper way to wire the glove box light and map light switch. I would like to have the map light work on my car. This is how Im reading that its wired. Power comes into one terminal on the the map light lamp, off of that same terminal it runs power up to the glove box light, the other terminal from the map light lamp then goes to one terminal on the map light switch, then out of the other terminal up to the headlight switch terminal D.

So my question is.. Im assuming that the power for the map light and glove box light is totally separate from the dome light wiring, even though it grounds itself out at the same place the dome light does? Also will the map light lamp come on when the doors are open?

IGN1 IGN2. I would be tempted to jumper it out in the engine bay as if original, in case you ever decide to run something (like the mopar breakerless) that needs a ballast

I ended up just jumpering it at the column connectore with a extra long jumper so that if need be I can cut it or re-splice it. I had the engine bay wiring done and didnt want to try to weave a new wire thru it.

Pretty sure Im almost done asking you questions Del :blob::blob::blob: