A good read on engine oil from a Harley forum, Most air cooled Harleys run about 300*F and need good oil to live.
A Must Read On Oil For Your Hd
A Must Read On Oil For Your Hd
Looks like Castrol 20W50 for the win, highest # of P, Zn, and B...
Probably over my head a little then...There is more to a good oil than the highest amount of phosphorus, zinc and boron.
Once you have more of the EP additives to control dry film lubrication, any more kills horsepower and takes up volume on the oil that could be used to upgrade other areas of lubrication, cleaning, cooling and such.
Check with Boss HossHow do i fit a 518 into my sportster?
10/40 was it castrol or valvoline?Probably over my head a little then...
I do know this though, when my shop started getting into law enforcement fleet accounts the Crown Vic's were having a LOT of main bearing thrust issues on the then new 5W30 oil.
I mean like converter bolts hitting the back of the block in drive!!
Most got mains under warranty by the local Ford dealers who was using the 5W30 as it was what ford called for. They were using Valvoline.
We at the time were using Castrol. We put 10W40 in cars of any Department that would let us ( some had warranty concerns) and Castrol 5W30 in those that insisted.
We had NO main bearing failures on any car that had the Castrol, and over a few years took on most of the local agency's as word in the industry was cars we serviced didn't have engine falures like the ones being serviced at the local dealers and county garages.
So, I kind of have a soft spot for Castrol I guess...
Castrol. we found the Valvoline would thin out if the car idled for a few hours ( like working an accident or doing radar ETC).10/40 was it castrol or valvoline?
Is 10/40 Castrol still a good choice now? If so will it have decent zinc for flat cam in a 360 mopar?Castrol. we found the Valvoline would thin out if the car idled for a few hours ( like working an accident or doing radar ETC).
Then, if the officer got another high priority call, hopped in, hit the lights and stomped it the thin oil couldn't protect the thrust bearing.
A few tours of that and " what is that clicking sound when I put it in drive??"
First one we found was intermittent. So we put the car on the lift running in gear with the Ebrake on. After about 45 min I saw the harmonic balancer move forward about 3/8 of an inch and the noise started.
Is 10/40 Castrol still a good choice now? If so will it have decent zinc for flat cam in a 360 mopar?
Probably over my head a little then...
I do know this though, when my shop started getting into law enforcement fleet accounts the Crown Vic's were having a LOT of main bearing thrust issues on the then new 5W30 oil.
I mean like converter bolts hitting the back of the block in drive!!
Most got mains under warranty by the local Ford dealers who was using the 5W30 as it was what ford called for. They were using Valvoline.
We at the time were using Castrol. We put 10W40 in cars of any Department that would let us ( some had warranty concerns) and Castrol 5W30 in those that insisted.
We had NO main bearing failures on any car that had the Castrol, and over a few years took on most of the local agency's as word in the industry was cars we serviced didn't have engine falures like the ones being serviced at the local dealers and county garages.
So, I kind of have a soft spot for Castrol I guess...
I've used Royal Purple XPR 10 40 for years on my 34O , never had a problem, of course only 35,000 km on itI've seen many cases like this.
One issue is the grade into which an oil falls is rather wide. You can test 3 oils and one will be built in the low end of the grade, one might be in the middle and the last one on the high side of the grade.
Also, I forget the exact testing procedure, but the oil being tested needs to be "in grade" for a certain number of tests. So let's say out of ten tests on any particular oil, if that oil passed the grade test 5 times out of 10 it's considered in grade.
If an oil is built on the low side of its grade, and it starts getting some load on it, like at the thrust or exhaust valves or whatever, it will get hot enough that it falls out of grade. And then the oil can't get rid of the heat that's pushing it out of grade, so the parts get hotter and the cycle continues.
It's almost impossible to get all the information from the oil manufacturers. The only real way to know if an oil is capable is to test it. And that costs big $$$$$. And it takes time.
Or, you learn the way you did, which isn't cheap either.
what is the thinking on oil for roller cams ? is a high zinc oil still a good idea or does it make no diffrerence ?I'm using valvoline synthetic VR-1 10W-30 this year for the first time because Hughes says to use 10-30 with the roller lifters
what is the thinking on oil for roller cams ? is a high zinc oil still a good idea or does it make no diffrerence ?I'm using valvoline synthetic VR-1 10W-30 this year for the first time because Hughes says to use 10-30 with the roller lifters
It's not necessary to use high ZDDP oil with a roller cam. It's an anti-wear additive, so it doesn't hurt. A SN+, GF-5 rated 10W-30, which is limited to 800 ppm of zinc and phosphorus, will do fine. The good news is it will be much easier to find an oil suitable for your engine.
How do you like your Hughes lifters?[/QUOT
So far the lifters are fine , no noise in the morning and they take a 7,000 rpm blast with no clacking like the old standard lifters . the old lifters made noise until warmed up changed them times always the same got to say the hughes lifters are great so far , a bit expensive but worth it as they drop right in no work needed I'm using the cryo treated offset rockers as well no complaints
I think it can be done.How do i fit a 518 into my sportster?
You should run the best oil you can afford, and then some. The cam isn't the only thing that needs dry film lubrication.