A little help on clutch rod length

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AmericanPwrtrn

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I need a little information. I need the distance from the firewall to the spot where the clutch rod hits the clutch pedal when the pedal is at rest. We are refining our hydraulic kits for A-bodies and there is some question on this measurement. Someone with a tape and a car please let me know what you come up with, along with the year of your car. Thanks!
 
Jee`z you guy`s are engineering parts for our cars and dont have an actual car to work with? bad idea. remind`s me of the nightmare I had with Keisler engineering`s hydraulic clutch system, nice looking product, but absolutly nothing worked as supposed to. since I have nothing to do, i`ll take a measurement for you, If someone does`nt beat me to it.
 
Jee`z you guy`s are engineering parts for our cars and dont have an actual car to work with? bad idea. remind`s me of the nightmare I had with Keisler engineering`s hydraulic clutch system, nice looking product, but absolutly nothing worked as supposed to. since I have nothing to do, i`ll take a measurement for you, If someone does`nt beat me to it.

We have the measurements off of a sample car from 1968. However it is impossible to keep one of each year around, and we need to know if they were consistent through the years. We are laying the groundwork BEFORE we ship the parts. That way we know what you receive will work right out of the box. The forum is a handy way to find a number of A-body owners all in one place. So, we are actually doing exactly what you would want us to do!

Thanks for your help. We truly appreciate the support. :-D
 
9-3\4" aproximate,floor to center. 67 barracuda , with 69 barracuda pedal assembly. I can`t see chrysler changeing anything on second generation a body`s. 3 year run. If your design is like keislers, slave cylinder mounted on firewall, their angle or degree off firewall was way off. I recorded this info and sent to them, and they still tried to make me out as the idiot. F, em. hope this helps. If you have a product that actually work`s, and is reasonably priced, I may be interested.
 
9-3\4" aproximate. 67 barracuda , with 69 barracuda pedal assembly. I can`t see chrysler changeing anything on second generation a body`s. 3 year run. If your design is like keislers, slave cylinder mounted on firewall, their angle or degree off firewall was way off. I recorded this info and sent to them, and they still tried to make me out as the idiot. F, em. hope this helps. If you have a product that actually work`s, and is reasonably priced, I may be interested.

Our kit uses a new Patent Pending bracket that adjusts to the correct rod angle in about two seconds flat. We also have some considerable adjustment in the rod length, so if there is some small variation from car to car then our customers will be OK. Our system works with the TKO or the Chrysler A-833s. And by the way, your measurement jibes with ours, within about 1/4", which is well within the adjustment range, so we should be good to go. This helps a lot.

If you want to get your hands on one we would be happy to oblige. I will make sure you get a honkin' deal since you helped out. :iconbigg:
 
cool, have a web site or pictures? warrenty? You have to forgive me if I seem sceptical. but keisler burned me good. one week shipping. took 30 days. tranny lying out for three weeks, could have been driving it. mr. K called me personally, apologizing. After contacting them with the problems they said they would get back to me, and would`nt. they would transfer me to the next employee each time, and get the same runaround. after 60+ $ in long distance phone bills, I shipped it back and had to eat shipping. This was a few years ago, but burns me to this day, sorry for my venting. One note, apparently chrysler made several different depth`s of bell housing. I have the alumunim one. thus keisler`s throw out bearing`s spacer was too short. McCloud seems to recognize this. anyone else wana chime in?
 
cool, have a web site or pictures? warrenty? You have to forgive me if I seem sceptical. but keisler burned me good. one week shipping. took 30 days. tranny lying out for three weeks, could have been driving it. mr. K called me personally, apologizing. After contacting them with the problems they said they would get back to me, and would`nt. they would transfer me to the next employee each time, and get the same runaround. after 60+ $ in long distance phone bills, I shipped it back and had to eat shipping. This was a few years ago, but burns me to this day, sorry for my venting. One note, apparently chrysler made several different depth`s of bell housing. I have the alumunim one. thus keisler`s throw out bearing`s spacer was too short. McCloud seems to recognize this. anyone else wana chime in?

I completely understand your frustration. All we can do is try to put a better face on 5-speed systems and support parts for Mopars. I own a B-body Convertible and have been a Mopar nut for a long time now and I really like to serve where most aftermarket companies fear to go. Anyone can put a TKO in a Camaro (not that I mind selling stuff to those guys too).8)

We actually use some McLeod bearings because they adjust so well to different stack up and bell housing requirements. There are a couple of good brands depending on the application. For 4-speed owners we almost always use McLeod bearings. We also have some bearings with spacers that slot and stack for adjustment.

As for our website, it is www.americanpowertrain.com. You can call me anytime at 931.646.4836 ext 103. We have lots of cool transmission related stuff, and if you can't find it from us I can probably tell you where you can get something. I am one of the owners of the company and I am usually the one answering the phone on our 24-hour tech line, so chances are you'll find me.

Thanks again for your help.
 
Will there be a kit to fit the early A Bodies?


Are you looking for hydraulics for an early A-body? The truth is we have not done any research on the pre-67 cars, but if you want to get me the same measurement from firewall to pedal joint I will try to find an old firewall somewhere around the shop to test one on and let you know. It should not be too hard to do because our system is really flexible. The only real drawback would be a crowded firewall or the lack of enough flat area for the bracket. Most Mopars have lots of flat sheet metal around the clutch rod hole. AP
 
Are you looking for hydraulics for an early A-body? The truth is we have not done any research on the pre-67 cars, but if you want to get me the same measurement from firewall to pedal joint I will try to find an old firewall somewhere around the shop to test one on and let you know. It should not be too hard to do because our system is really flexible. The only real drawback would be a crowded firewall or the lack of enough flat area for the bracket. Most Mopars have lots of flat sheet metal around the clutch rod hole. AP

I'm interested in just about anything that solves the problem of interference between headers and clutch linkage after swapping in a 10.5" clutch. I haven't decided what way I'm gonna' go, linkage or hydraulic. I might be able to get a measurement for you in the next couple of days. My car is in pieces & I'm not sure if the clutch rod is even hooked to the pedal assy. right now, but I don't think that matters for the measurement you want. If I can, I'll post it here.
 
I'm interested in just about anything that solves the problem of interference between headers and clutch linkage after swapping in a 10.5" clutch. I haven't decided what way I'm gonna' go, linkage or hydraulic. I might be able to get a measurement for you in the next couple of days. My car is in pieces & I'm not sure if the clutch rod is even hooked to the pedal assy. right now, but I don't think that matters for the measurement you want. If I can, I'll post it here.

The primary reason for hydraulic systems for muscle cars in the first place was their HUGE packaging advantage over mechanical linkage. With just one braided steel line to route between the firewall and the bell housing, you can pretty much run whatever header and bell combination you like without worrying about routing issues. And because Mopar linkage is so bleeding expensive, there is not much difference in cost. A Camaro guy can get complete linkage for about $100. It costs $400-500 for a Mopar owner to get the same stuff. Plus, I have heard lots of stories about Mopar Z-bar systems falling apart. My brother-in-law had part of his linkage fall out while he was driving down the road. Hydraulics are pretty dependable, smooth and the packaging advantages make them heads above linkage.
 

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