A note about Cherokee disc brake swaps

-
TrailBeast

TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Joined
Mar 11, 2011
Messages
22,404
Reaction score
11,876
Location
Arizona
I recently did this conversion on an original unmodified 1973 8.25 rear end housing.
All went really nice until I had a nasty little intermittent scraping sound that would come and go.

At first I thought the backing plate was too close to the rotor, so I got in there with a flat blade screwdriver and opened up the gap a bit (1/4 inch or so)
Still had the exact same intermittent metal to metal scraping sound, and even noticed a bit of metal dust on the wheel.

Found it.
In this picture a red arrow points to a ridge on the inside of the disc surrounding the emergency brake drum built into the disc.
This ridge was hitting the raised rib pointed out on the backing plate.
I took a 4 inch grinder to the ridge on the drum taking it down flat and that solved it.
Taking that ridge off has no affect on the E brake surface or shoes.

Just in case someone does this swap this might save them from the same head scratching.:D
Other than that the entire swap bolted up flawlessly with zero mods other than longer wheel studs to make up for the disc thickness.

brakes.jpg
 
I had one while in a turn, turned out my axel c clips were wore worn a bit, so the axels move in and out slightly and the disks would rub the pads., replaced them fine since.
 
Last edited:
Not to hijack the post, but is the Jeep Liberty swap similar? Thought I had read the Liberty rotors were better.
 
halifaxhops said:
I had one while in a turn, turned out my axel c clips were wore worn a bit, so the axels move in and out slightly and the disks would rub the pads., replaced them fine since.
Click to expand...

When this setup made the noise I could touch the brakes and it would go away.
(clue):D
 
Hello there I'm TAI. Yes Demonic, your right. The Liberty rotors are better! All from mother MOPAR!
 
HELLO!! Hope everyone is doing well with your projects. Keep turning them wrenches! If i can help anyone out let me know. Been at it for 30+plus years. On the
REAR DISC BRAKE SWAP,
check-out MOPAR ACTION: TAKE A BRAKE. AUG 2018 pg,64/OCT 2018 pg,52.
I'm James-TALK ABOUT IT. In the title. I brought this idea to them an they did the story...GREAT JOB!! On pg,68 pix 8 an 9 i'm showing the writer how it all goes together. It was COLD that day!! They forgot to put my name on part 2. It's okay, So long as the INFO gets out there to everybody. I picked-up a set of drilled an slotted rotors from AMAZON FOR $16.62 EACH!!! price has gone up.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZL Performance Drilled Slotted Silver Rotor Left.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZR Performance Drilled and Slotted Silver Rotor Right. They are for a 02-07 JEEP Liberty.You can use the set-up from a Grand Cherokee also. The caliper brackets are the same. The Liberty calipers, rotors and pads are much beefier. AMAZON also have RED POWDER COATED calipers by...
Power Stop (S4754) Performance Calipers Rear $95.93 pair, no core. I used the GC Brackets, but put all the Liberty stuff on them. Yes it all works. OK, hit me-up an we can..
"TALK ABOUT IT"
:usflag:
 
Last edited:
TrailBeast said:
I recently did this conversion on an original unmodified 1973 8.25 rear end housing.
All went really nice until I had a nasty little intermittent scraping sound that would come and go.

At first I thought the backing plate was too close to the rotor, so I got in there with a flat blade screwdriver and opened up the gap a bit (1/4 inch or so)
Still had the exact same intermittent metal to metal scraping sound, and even noticed a bit of metal dust on the wheel.

Found it.
In this picture a red arrow points to a ridge on the inside of the disc surrounding the emergency brake drum built into the disc.
This ridge was hitting the raised rib pointed out on the backing plate.
I took a 4 inch grinder to the ridge on the drum taking it down flat and that solved it.
Taking that ridge off has no affect on the E brake surface or shoes.

Just in case someone does this swap this might save them from the same head scratching.:D
Other than that the entire swap bolted up flawlessly with zero mods other than longer wheel studs to make up for the disc thickness.

View attachment 1715478445
Click to expand...
Cool! Do have year model for this disc brake conversion? Did you install e brake system? Do you have a detailed write up? :thankyou:
 
Hello QD360! I read yr post earlier today. U did the right thing, I had the same issue. UR on the right track my friend. No E-Brake yet, working on my other projects. see pg,54 Mopar Action OCT 2018. That's 1 way to do the parking brake cable. I do have another, will let u kn later.
JEEP GC 93 to 98. Liberty 02 to 07. Wrangler 03 to 06.
Check-out MOPAR ACTION: TAKE A BRAKE. AUG 2018 pg,64/OCT 2018 pg,52.
I'm TAI.
 
If ur going to put the JEEP disc brakes on a 8.75 rear-end u must! have FAB WORK DONE ON THE BRACKETS! There is another way with-out any FAB WORK. tell u later, goin to bed. GN.
 
I picked-up a set of drilled an slotted rotors from AMAZON For $16.62 EACH!!! price has gone up.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZL Performance Drilled Slotted Silver Rotor Left.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZR Performance Drilled Slotted Silver Rotor Right. They are for a 02-07 JEEP Liberty.You can use the set up from a Grand Cherokee also. The caliper brackets are the same. The Liberty calipers, rotors and pads are much beefier. AMAZON also have RED POWDER COATED calipers.
Power Stop (S4754) Performance Calipers Rear $95.93 pair, no core. Forget RA!!! AMAZON, EBAY an AUTOZONE have all the parts for this swap dirt cheap!! or just clean-up the junk yard ones and bolt it all on. [FAB WORK ON THE BRACKETS FIRST- 8.75 rear only] I used the GC Brackets, but put all the Liberty stuff on them. Yes it all works. OK, hit me-up an we can...
"TALK ABOUT IT!"
 
Last edited:
Hello TB, QuickDart360 showed me ur post, great job!
I have some info 4U.
I picked-up a set of drilled an slotted rotors from AMAZON For $16.62 EACH!!! price may have gone up.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZL Performance Drilled Slotted Silver Rotor Left.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZR Performance Drilled Slotted Silver Rotor Right. They are for a 02-07 JEEP Liberty.
You can use the set up from a Grand Cherokee an Wrangler also. The caliper brackets are the same. The Liberty calipers, rotors and pads are much beefier. AMAZON also have RED POWDER COATED calipers.
Power Stop (S4754) Performance Calipers Rear $95.93 pair, no core.
Forget RA!!! AMAZON, EBAY an AUTOZONE have all the parts for this swap dirt cheap!! [FAB WORK ON THE BRACKETS FIRST for the 8.75 rear-end] I used the GC Brackets, but put all the Liberty stuff on them. Yes it all works. OK, hit me-up an we can TALK ABOUT IT!
 
Last edited:
TALK ABOUT IT said:
Hello TB, QuickDart360 showed me ur post, great job!
I have some info 4U.
I picked-up a set of drilled an slotted rotors from AMAZON For $16.62 EACH!!! price may have gone up.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZL Performance Drilled Slotted Silver Rotor Left.
Prime Choice Auto Parts PR63012DSZR Performance Drilled Slotted Silver Rotor Right. They are for a 02-07 JEEP Liberty.
You can use the set up from a Grand Cherokee an Wrangler also. The caliper brackets are the same. The Liberty calipers, rotors and pads are much beefier. AMAZON also have RED POWDER COATED calipers.
Power Stop (S4754) Performance Calipers Rear $95.93 pair, no core.
Forget RA!!! AMAZON, EBAY an AUTOZONE have all the parts for this swap dirt cheap!! [FAB WORK ON THE BRACKETS FIRST for the 8.75 rear-end] I used the GC Brackets, but put all the Liberty stuff on them. Yes it all works. OK, hit me-up an we can TALK ABOUT IT!
Click to expand...

Thank you.
I'm really happy about things the way they are, but will keep this info in case I need something different.
 
What was the wheel stud length you used? From whom and where? Thanks Trail Beast. Nice notation.
TrailBeast said:
I recently did this conversion on an original unmodified 1973 8.25 rear end housing.
All went really nice until I had a nasty little intermittent scraping sound that would come and go.

At first I thought the backing plate was too close to the rotor, so I got in there with a flat blade screwdriver and opened up the gap a bit (1/4 inch or so)
Still had the exact same intermittent metal to metal scraping sound, and even noticed a bit of metal dust on the wheel.

Found it.
In this picture a red arrow points to a ridge on the inside of the disc surrounding the emergency brake drum built into the disc.
This ridge was hitting the raised rib pointed out on the backing plate.
I took a 4 inch grinder to the ridge on the drum taking it down flat and that solved it.
Taking that ridge off has no affect on the E brake surface or shoes.

Just in case someone does this swap this might save them from the same head scratching.:D
Other than that the entire swap bolted up flawlessly with zero mods other than longer wheel studs to make up for the disc thickness.

View attachment 1715478445
Click to expand...
 
QuickDart360 said:
Cool! Do have year model for this disc brake conversion? Did you install e brake system? Do you have a detailed write up? :thankyou:
Click to expand...

Sorry, no detailed write up on it, as I'm more of a "git er done" type and not a publish what I do person.
The E brake is next but not in any hurry about it.
I also have the cables off the (96) Grand Cherokee and will probably use those and fab some brackets for them to attach to the OE Mopar E brake cable.
It's all pretty basic.
 
Last edited:
rumblefish360 said:
What was the wheel stud length you used? From whom and where? Thanks Trail Beast. Nice notation.
Click to expand...

Dorman part number 610-446.1 from Autozone.
They are 1.5 inches long and have the correct press shoulder size for the OE 8.25 axle flanges. (.662 at the serrated shoulder) and 1/2 x 20 thread.
One of our local group has a press and we used that to put them in.
They give me about 3/4 of an inch of threads for the lug nuts after the rotor and wheel are on.
 
I did the same swap as Trail and had the same issue. Thought it was the dust shields. Took apart and ground down the rotor as per TB. Great swap but I would have used the Liberty swap had I known about it. Still stops Great. Use an adjustable Prop valve to set front to rear braking. Do it in a safe, empty parking lot with wet pavement. Fronts should lock just before the rear.
 
TrailBeast said:
Dorman part number 610-446.1 from Autozone.
They are 1.5 inches long and have the correct press shoulder size for the OE 8.25 axle flanges. (.662 at the serrated shoulder) and 1/2 x 20 thread.
One of our local group has a press and we used that to put them in.
They give me about 3/4 of an inch of threads for the lug nuts after the rotor and wheel are on.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: Good lookin-out with the pn#.
 
gzig5 said:
Dang. Wish I knew that before I rebuilt the drums last fall. Seems like a cheap way to get into rear discs.
Click to expand...
You can sell them on Ebay, they go for good money as stock items. I saw them go for like $450.00.
 
gzig5 said:
Does this work on an 8 3/4 rear end or only the 8 1/4"?
Click to expand...
Yes it works on all Mopar rears, but on the 8.75 the caliper bracket must be modified because its to thick and the axles will not go back to the original pre-load position.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top