A518 with No First Gear (so it seems)

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saapbaad

saapbaad

mopar or no car
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Hey guys, just trying to get this figured out. I did try searching but came up with lackluster answers so I'm hoping I can get some insight into some good troubleshooting tips.

I have a 74 Duster that came with an A518. Cars been sitting for a while now, finally got around to firing it up but I remembered that when I put it away it had troubles with first gear.

Just took it for a spin and confirmed that it doesn't have first, even when I manually shift it into first. It has everything else like 2/3/N/R/P (2/3 as far as I can tell) but I didn't get it up to any kind of road speed just in case something cratered.

Fluid is good, and based on what I found it could be linkage, governor, etc. Any help here? I'm hopeful that since I still have reverse that this thing isn't pooched but I'm pretty new to transmission tech so who knows.

TIA.
 
So, since you didnt mention reverse issues,reverse must work. That means the L-R band is working.Since you didnt mention any other shifting issues, the governor is good.
That leaves just three possibilities; 1) linkage adjustment, and 2) valvebody issues, or 3)mismatched parts.

Since the 74 never came with a 518, there is no A-body linkage for it. So Ima gonna assume your 518 is an early model, that is automatically hydraulically shifted into O/D, and you have a O/D lock-out switch mounted somewhere. That means you could theoretically use the stock shift linkage.
So far so good?
Okay then, here we go. Jack the car up. Safety first, right? Rear wheels off the ground. And high enough to get yourself under it.Put it in N-for-neutral(a bit of humor there to take the edge off whats coming), and start it up. Starts ok? Good. Rear wheels not powered up? ok. Shut er down.
So, that proves N on the indicator is neutral in the tranny. Are you having fun yet?
Ok, so, leave the shift lever in N(for neutral), and slide back under there. Remove whatever locking device is used to attach the shift mechanism from the shift arm. What you are gonna do is verify that the low position on the valvebody can be reached.So you need to shift from N to D to 2 to L(1), thats 3 clicks;D,2,L. The direction is forward. So go, now.Badaboom, all three clicks there? Excellent. So that means the manual valve is working.
So now with the lever all the way forward, which we know is L(for Low), Push the shift linkage as far forward as it will go, and try to slip the pin back into the shiftarm. You may have to crawl back out and move the stick manually into low, then try again.If it drops right in, than Ima gonna say the problem is internal. But Ima betting it wont.
So, now we have a problem. With one of three solutions. Either 1) the linkage needs adjustment, or 2) the linkage anchor is too flexible, or 3) the wrong shift arm has been installed. This is the part you get to figure out.

I have to tell you though;this adjustment is to prove manual low selection.When you put the Mopar trans in D(for Drive)(sheesh give it up already), it always starts in low.Its built that way.If the tranny was assembled correctly, and at one time, had automatic-low(called Drive-Breakaway), I cannot imagine how it could quit,mechanically.
And that takes us back to an internal problem, maybe two internal problems.
Okay thats all I got.
 
AJ thanks so much for this, this is exactly what I was after so we can isolate the problem (I just went through a bunch of electrical diagnosing and thanks to 67Dart273 I was able to work things out cause he gives great steps on problem isolation).

I'm going to run these tests you've given tomorrow and will let you know the outcome - really appreciated AJ!
 
So I jacked the back end up, tires do in fact spin when I'm neutral but if I hold the wheel down I can stop it from spinning (can feel a bit of force). When in first (with the car running) the wheels don't spin nor can I spin them manually by hand they feel locked.

What would this tell us?
 
The first gear problem occurred just before I parked it and I knew I'd have to deal with it when the season came around. Reverse works fine, checked the linkage and it bottoms out properly in first.

Gonna drop the pan and check the fluid to see if there's any clues there.
 
Well in that case I'm going with one of the other gears is not mechanicaly releasing. Its not likely to be the KD band. So that just leaves the hi-drum. It probably has warped clutches in it. That would explain the locked wheels in low, and the still working reverse. The still working reverse indicates that the L/R band is working.
The only iffy thing about this diagnoses is that to the driver,the tranny would seem to start in direct gear. And then attempt to backshift into Second when commanded to by the governor. The KD band would then have to be more powerful than the dragging-but-released hi-drum. During take-off, it should be possible to slip that warped clutchpack, by application of generous throttle.
Its all kinda moot though, as you said the linkage is moving all the way into low position. If tranny goes into low, and tranny is full of fluid, and tranny does not propel car, then tranny is by definition broken.It will need to come out.
 
UPDATE: Been driving the car for a few days, seems fine minus first gear. Will be dropping the trans sometime this weekend or early next week, quotes to have this rebuilt are high (which sucks) and going back to a 727 is no go.

Will post what we find when it's cracked open.
 
Do it yourself. Mine was a snap! It ain't like you've got to dig into the OD section. At least make sure guy beefs up the OD clutch counts and such.
 
Thought about it PoisonDart74, just wouldn't want to frig up all those new components and be negative again at square one.

Checked out a few resources online but nothing with a clean step-by-step. Could you recommend a manual or resource to do this?
 
Most certainly:

Tear down video:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta1Wunn2cdc"]Dodge A318 (46RE) Transmission Teardown - YouTube[/ame]


Step by steps:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/46re-tutorial-911009/

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...p-my-a518-transmission-updated-occurs-273018/

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...re-transmission-rebuild-work-in-progress.html

46RH links:

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100506

A 727 rebuild for reference:

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/the-torqueflite-a-727-transmission.117876/

Tricks and beefs:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/8...stock-friction-steel-count-each-location.html

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/4519283/site_id/1#import post #81669


I can send you the ATSG manual if you'd like to peruse it. Shoot me a PM.

You can get any part for this thing from wittrans.com (my prefered inexpensive) bulkpart.com , and most from transmissionpartsusa.com

I recommend researching and finding out what you want to add to it besides the basic kit, tearing it down, writing out a shopping list and then go hunting. The only extra tool you'll need besides basic hand tools is a dial gauge and press for the 800# spring in the OD section. this could be a harbor freight job, or your local machine/mechanic/transshop shop can assist you.

All the parts should be fairly inexpensive, you could go through it for less than $500 with all the bells and whistles.

That should get you started, I always shoot for getting a good converter as well.

And as always triple check, take your time and AIR TEST CLUTCH PACKS!!

You'll be patting yourself on the back saying: "Man, besides wrestling that b8tch out from under there, that was a snap!"

PS:

Make sure to adjust your kick-down linkage properly.

TF-OD JR. is a good shift kit, inexpensive and very simple to deal with.

Check sun-gear thrust, easily over looked..

If you need to replace a bushing, you can cut the old one out with a hacksaw blade, length wise by hand, then knock it out with a drift. Put the part in the oven at 200, bushing in the freezer for about 30mins. I've had good luck with finding a socket the size 'just smaller' then the OD of the bushing, lube up the part, put the bushing in place with the socket over it and pound it in with a dead blow hammer..

Of course, if you plan on having a trans shop do the press work, you could also get them to install your bushing(s) for a nominal fee.

These days after everything is in car, I check out the pressure readings at the ports to make sure everything is working well with a gauge like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html

It's also a smart idea to test the port that shows line pressure to make sure your pump is working properly, before you pull it out. Hell, check all three, it may help you find the problem if nothing inside is a smoking gun. Instructions are well laid out in the ATSG.
 
**** man thanks for taking the time to compile all that material, it's exatly what a guy needs to do this on his own.

I'm feeling up to the task to rebuild this trans myself. I'll be sure to update this thread along the way, and I'm sure I'll have lots of questions.

Either way lets get this done.
 
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