Sorry for no update I've been out of town on business, just ordered the book should have it tomorrow. Still waiting on a few other parts, but hoping to have a chance to build it this coming weekend.
If you don't have one, you should invest in a GOOD transmission cooler. The picture of the parts above shows burn marks so that guy was running very hot! Others who've used that 5.0 can chime in on the # of turns.Question for yea all. 4.2 vs. 5.0 vs 3.2 or 3.8 lever? Geez.
I've read soo much and heard pro's n con's for all. Ordered a 5.0 from summit and will have it tomorrow, but now I'm 2nd guessing myself.
Now I got a aftermarket rebuild kit with shift kit.
Opted for the "Heavy Duty" setup with the shift kit.
Little back story on the use of this trans.
It's behind a 318/396 stroker low ccr 9.5'ish :1
Mild cam. With fitech, Built for torque. In my 72 D100 with a 3:23 gear set out back . The truck is just a daily and for looks. Not hauling/ towing or racing.
What lever should I use with my combo??
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Did You find a cause for the damaged support? Once it became damaged, there wouldn't have been enough of a seal to provide the pressures needed by the clutch, if there was enough line pressure/flow to begin with.Question for yea all. 4.2 vs. 5.0 vs 3.2 or 3.8 lever? Geez.
I've read soo much and heard pro's n con's for all. Ordered a 5.0 from summit and will have it tomorrow, but now I'm 2nd guessing myself.
Now I got a aftermarket rebuild kit with shift kit.
Opted for the "Heavy Duty" setup with the shift kit.
Little back story on the use of this trans.
It's behind a 318/396 stroker low ccr 9.5'ish :1
Mild cam. With fitech, Built for torque. In my 72 D100 with a 3:23 gear set out back . The truck is just a daily and for looks. Not hauling/ towing or racing.
What lever should I use with my combo??
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Killer6,Did You find a cause for the damaged support? Once it became damaged, there wouldn't have been enough of a seal to provide the pressures needed by the clutch, if there was enough line pressure/flow to begin with.
Killer6,
Not sure which damaged support you referring too? I'm asking which lever ratio I should use that will fit my specific need for this build.
I'm pretty sure I'm the reason the trans is smoked, and the clutches damaged due to heavy footed MORON driving and trying to chirp the wheels while in (D) instead of (1)
Whether the sprag alone(which appears intact/didn't get rolled) held, or if the low/rev band held the drum, it would have -0- bearing on smoking the clutch. The higher ratio lever only increases the clamping force on the band, it has nothing to do with clutch apply whatsoever.Killer6,
Not sure which damaged support you referring too? I'm asking which lever ratio I should use that will fit my specific need for this build.
I'm pretty sure I'm the reason the trans is smoked, and the clutches damaged due to heavy footed MORON driving and trying to chirp the wheels while in (D) instead of (1)
Aww, Okay I understand your what you meant in your first post now... Yes the Support and the sprag gear were replaced. Why the damage I'm not sure but my plan was to replace anything questionable. As for the clutches and line pressure when installing the new shift kit I opted for the "heavy duty" option (larger holes in separating plate, a few new holes in valve body and a few new springs) for a bit more line pressure and firmer shift points. I also opted for the lvl 2 Alto clutches, with a 1.35" kick down band.Whether the sprag alone(which appears intact/didn't get rolled) held, or if the low/rev band held the drum, it would have -0- bearing on smoking the clutch. The higher ratio lever only increases the clamping force on the band, it has nothing to do with clutch apply whatsoever.
And the kickdown/2nd gear band lever You are picturing won't do anything whatsoever in 1st/manual low, & the most common reason THAT band gets smoked is shifting @RPM from manual low, because the L/R band can't release fast enough before the KD/2nd band tries to grab the front drum. Even with an improved lever ratio, any overlap is won by the band that already has a grip on a motionless drum, that's the L/R band, so the kickdown band is always the loser.
The torn up alum. part is the "support", and if there's a lack of lube or improper assy./repair, it will be damaged, seals leak, pieces of debri clog fluid ports/passages, etc. The lever does -0- to address the damage I see, nor does it explain it.
The 5:1 will clamp tighter, but will need a different adj., and as A body said...I'm not sure about combo of the flex-style band, that ratio, and the required adjustment..above My experience w/them...Aww, Okay I understand your what you meant in your first post now... Yes the Support and the sprag gear were replaced. Why the damage I'm not sure but my plan was to replace anything questionable. As for the clutches and line pressure when installing the new shift kit I opted for the "heavy duty" option (larger holes in separating plate, a few new holes in valve body and a few new springs) for a bit more line pressure and firmer shift points. I also opted for the lvl 2 Alto clutches, with a 1.35" kick down band.
- Now with that all done my question was which lever ratio should I use with my current transmission build? There are a few options and I would like to only have to do it once.. Yes I understand this question has no bearing on the smoked clutches or the damage to the support housing, but as I'm in the trans repairing and modifying for my need it is relevant to my build...
And a HEMI Swap!.... but its just my daily and I plan the leave it as is, so I'll beef up the transmission I have now... boring I knowThat's a truck. No reason NOT to have a 727 in there.
Not at all. Now he knows what it looks like!Sorry...Looks like I am late to the party.
The 5.0 kickdown needs the Hemi width band to go with it, or it makes no difference. Get the rigid wide band and you're good.Question for yea all. 4.2 vs. 5.0 vs 3.2 or 3.8 lever? Geez.
I've read soo much and heard pro's n con's for all. Ordered a 5.0 from summit and will have it tomorrow, but now I'm 2nd guessing myself.
Now I got a aftermarket rebuild kit with shift kit.
Opted for the "Heavy Duty" setup with the shift kit.
Little back story on the use of this trans.
It's behind a 318/396 stroker low ccr 9.5'ish :1
Mild cam. With fitech, Built for torque. In my 72 D100 with a 3:23 gear set out back . The truck is just a daily and for looks. Not hauling/ towing or racing.
What lever should I use with my combo??
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Thank you... I had found a thread mentioning this. Everything I'm reading talks about overlap time or setting up the shifting I've also noticed most manual shift VB are running the 5.0 and I'm not setting mine up for manual shift.. Think I'm going to stick with the stock 3.2 lever, I just need a good smooth trans that can daily.The 5.0 kickdown needs the Hemi width band to go with it, or it makes no difference. Get the rigid wide band and you're good.
I'm sure you'll get your question answered here but meanwhile,
There's a guy named Richard that does youtube videos for precision transmission, you could try hitting them up. That guy takes apart a transmission and explains every part in one breath.
He does talk about lever options for chrysler trannies but I don't remember if it's in the above video
Other than a shorter prop-shaft and a large slip-yoke?That's a truck. No reason NOT to have a 727 in there.