A998 w/ Lockup in a 65 Dart with 273

-
fstfish66 said:
I have the A999 in my 1940 dodge coupe,,,the motor is a tiny first hemi, 1953 241C,I. WITH 7.1 compression,,and a over sized hemi grind cam,not my doin,,, from what ive heard the 999 has a lower then normal first gear ratio,,,the car weighs around 3000-3200 has A 3.23 rear gear,,,it idels at 8.25 rpm.,,,in netrual and drops to 6.25 rpm in gear,,gets out of the hole pretty good we are talking less then 200 horse power,,, i dont know how or what but as far as i know no machine work has been done to the crank for the larger hub,,,,,the early hemi ,s must have a bigger convertor register hole,,,, any way no need for giant horse power to run this trans,,,it goes down the highway at 80 mph with the A/C on 18mpg,,,
Click to expand...

Is yours a lockup torque converter? What size rear tires?
 
I'd be happy with 18 highway.

I was getting 15 highway in my dart with a tired 273 and 2.96 rear gears. I was running 205/60-14 tires at the time. So my tires were 12% smaller, but my rear end ratio was 8% taller. So you're geared roughly 4% higher than me plus whatever advantage you gained from the lockup.

I think this is the way to go. I just need to figure out what year to hunt down.
 
I called Dacco. They remanufacture torque converters. They offer three stock lockup torque converters for an A998:

Their 563 is for 6 cly with a stall speed of 2000-2200

Their 564 is for 318's with a stall speed of 1800-2000

Their 568 is for 318's with a stall speed of 2000-2200

According to the catalog, these fit passenger cars and trucks with the A998 between 1978 and 1991. It seems to imply that A998 with low stall was used until 1989, while the A998 with high stall continued until 1991.

So which of these would work better for me? Remember it's a 273 with 9:1 compression and an Isky E-4 cam. The cam has .425" lift and 260 advertised duration, 216 duration at .050" lift. The Isky catalog gives that cam an RPM range of 2000-5500.

My goals are good gas mileage with decent performance and no racing.

Will a difference in stall speed of 200 rpm be noticeable?
 
65DartGTConv said:
According to the catalog, these fit passenger cars and trucks with the A998 between 1978 and 1991. It seems to imply that A998 with low stall was used until 1989, while the A998 with high stall continued until 1991.
Click to expand...

1989 was the last year for the M-Bodies. So I'm thinking the M bodies got the low stall due to their lighter weight, but the A998 continued to be used in trucks or vans with more weight, thus getting the higher stall speed.
 
I went looking for some identification info to take with me to the junk yard to find a transmission. I found this over at http://www.dippy.org/forum2/index.php?topic=1847.15
I have a 257 page copy of the sales code guide for chrysler but it is a very large file. I skimmed it over but there is no a999 or A998 in it only ref. to the number of gears, gear ratios and TQ options.
DGD = 3speed automatic,30rh
DGG=3 speed automatic,32rh (as stated above bulit to handle 200 horse)
DHA= lock up TQ
DGA =3 speed auto standard
ELE =5.2 litre 4 barrel(police)ELD = 2 barrel HD
ELA = 2 barrel gas engine
Click to expand...
So the fender tag will tell you what transmission came in an M-Body.

From another site, I found the older numeric codes.
http://www.aspenandvolare.com/showthread.php?1376-A904-A999&

Putting it all together

DGD = D31 = 30RH = A904
DGA = D32 = 31RH = A998
DGG = D33 = 32RH = A999

Of course that's assuming the transmission was never swapped out. I would love to find numbers on the transmission that would identify what it is, before I head down to the local Pick Your Part.
 
find a mid 80's diplomat 318 or 360. they have the low gear set and five clutch pack. get your crank machined for the larger hub. /6 and 318 high stall are the same converter and will help with your cam. attached link is tranny part #s for left side pan rail ID.
[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf[/ame]
 
I got my 998/999 out of an 88 Gran Fury cop car with 318. I took everything and put it behind the 318 in my Duster. Transmission is internally controlled. I used the drive shaft, had it shortened & balanced, and the 290 rear end also.
I put a new speedo cable in for an aftermarket gauge cluster.

I can't tell you what kind of mileage I get cause I never "fill" the tank. I know that I can cruise down the highway with the best of them with no problems. Running 215/65-15 tires 70mph is about 24-2500 rpm which is only a couple hundred more than my Dakota with OD.
C
 
my trans was said to come from a 1987 ram charger dont think u will find any of those any where,,,there were all abused and rusted away,,, ill have to se if there are any numbers on my trans that i can see with it in the car,,,knowing the stall would be interesting,,,

as stated the bigger stall,,looser converter will help out with a cam,,ideling at traffic lites and such,,,thanks for the ground work on the numbers,,,
 
I need to give the machine shop instructions for opening up the torque converter register in the end of the crankshaft. I've Googled around and I've seen two different numbers for the diameter, 1.810" and 1.815". I'm thinking 1.810" is the size of the snout on the converter and 1.815" is the inside diameter of the crankshaft register.

Can anyone confirm these numbers? What exactly should I tell the machinist?
 
So let me get this straight, these things bolt right in without cutting the tunnel? What mileage are y'all getting with a 318?
 
Today was the Valentines Day half price sale at Pick-Your-Part so I went down to see if I could find a transmission.

I found a 1984 Chrysler Fifth Avenue with a 318. The odometer shows 10,000 miles but no way to know how many times its been around.

The fender tag contains DGA, indicating an A998 transmission.

The numbers on the pan rail are PK4295887 8081 6999. According to another post, K4295887 indicates that its a 1984 904 used behind a 318. The post goes on to say that the book did not distinguish between 904/998/999 transmissions.

There is yellow writing on the case that says BEN 6-19-6 BEN. Hopefully this thing was rebuilt in June 2006 for somebody named Ben, although I guess it could also mean it was pulled from a wreck and labeled with the customer's name for pickup.

The torque converter has the numbers 488 and 061606 written in black magic marker. Presumable the second number is a date so Perhaps this converter was also rebuilt on June 2006.

I'm hoping this is a 998 transmission and not a 904. If it's original to the vehicle then that's probably what it is. If the transmission was replaced with a used/rebuilt transmission from another car, then no telling.

If anyone can decode these numbers, I would really appreciate it.
 

Attachments

  • 20140214_140134.jpg
    77 KB · Views: 355
  • 20140214_140032.jpg
    72 KB · Views: 352
  • 20140214_103525.jpg
    61.3 KB · Views: 351
  • 20140214_180123.jpg
    62.9 KB · Views: 401
  • 20140214_190052.jpg
    51.1 KB · Views: 334
I found this list of transmission numbers:
[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf[/ame]

It identifies PK4295887 as 1984 Diplomat/Gran Fury/New Yorker 318 A904.

But the list doesn't differentiate between 904/998/999. Maybe that information is contained in the remaining digits.
 
if the input shaft has a hole in the end it is a hydrulic lock up no electrics needed,,,shame it wasnt an 85 diplomat,,, they have a roller motor in them if its a 318 cant hurt to look to see
 
The donor car had two brackets, one on each side, from the transmission bellhousing up to the side of the engine block. My 65 didn't have these. Should they be there, or were then not used until later.
 
I used Easy-Off oven cleaner clean the outside of the transmission. I used the stuff in the blue can that's "fume free" but it still worked great. I sprayed it all over the entire transmission and then wiped it off with paper towels. It was amazing how will it worked, taking off embedded grease and dirt that did not come off with gasoline and a paint brush.

I followed that up with more gasoline and a scotch brite pad. Here it is all cleaned up.
View attachment 20141022_090136.jpg
 
I studied the speedometer cable adapters between my 1965 transmission, this 1984 transmission and a 1966 transmission I got with a parts car.

The 1984 speedometer cable went to the cruise control on the Fifth Avenue and doesn't fit my 1965 speedometer.

The 1965 speedometer cable is a totally different design and won't fit the 1984 tailshaft or the 1966 tailshaft.

But the 1966 and 1984 tailshaft housings looks the same. Sure enough, the 1966 speedometer cable adapter and gear fits the 1984 transmission.
View attachment 20141026_170807.jpg
So, I picked up a speedometer cable for a 1966 Dart, ATP Y804. The small end of that cable fits the 1965 Speedometer and the big end fits the 1966 adapter which is now installed in the 1984 transmission. The cable is 63" which is a bit longer than the original cable at 56". Hopefully the extra length won't be a problem.

To top it all off, the 1966 transmission happened to have a 31 tooth gear which is the correct gear for my 2.94 rear end ratio and 25" tires.:cheers:
 
1984 trans #k4295887 is a A998 unit with the wide ratio gearset using 2.74 low, 1.56 second, 1.1 direct w/ mechanical internal lockup.
(stock 904- 2.45 low, 1.45 sec, 1.1 direct)

The speedo cable, and drive shaft you got will work for the swap.

The crank pilot will need to be opened up to 1.815 in.

Use the 586 dacco t/c (or same from other manufacture) this will give you the best performance and idle for the 273 cam (e-4) you are using, should be @ 2200 stall , cam works from 2000- 5000 so wont bog engine below cam in lock up at light cruise

Sounds like you have all the part you will need for setup. Do use the torque stuts from motor to bell housing, prevents bell breakage.

This is the same setup i am putting in my 67 cuda vert with 273 S factory motor and cam, i am also using 26" tires and 2.93 read gears.

Cant give results yet still doing body work and is not drivable at this time, hoping to get 18-20 mpg hyway

best of luck;

Lon;
 
Thanks for all the great info. I decided to get the car running and driving to see what I have before I put any money into this transmission. I have no idea what stall speed this torque converter is, but if it feels good I'll keep it. On the other hand the trans might need a rebuild and that would be the time to put in a new torque converter and probably a transgo shift kit.

I had the crank pilot hole drilled out when I had the engine rebuilt.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top