A999 Accumulator Stuck

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MrFusion

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Apr 19, 2022
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I have a question for the transmission gurus on FABO. I rebuilt an A999 last year. First one I ever did. I read the usual books etc. I installed a a TF2 kit and drilled the holes about midway through the recommended range. I also installed a Sonnax upgraded accumulator and Transgo accumulator spring. Last fall the transmission started to whine in 2nd. It seemed to be from the valve body. It got a bit worse over several weeks and then the transmission started "braking" in second. I assumed that the trans was in two gears at once so I parked it for the winter.

Last week I dropped the pan and the valve body. I didn't see too much friction material or glitter in the pan. However I had use a pair of channelocks to get the accumulator out. I also noticed significant wear on one side of the bottom protrusion of the Sonnax accumulator. The hollow cavity on the top of the accumulator was full of black/gray gunk. I'm assuming it is friction material. When I re-installed the accumulator it was tight but moved up and down. I could move it with my fingers. Then I pushed it the whole way up into the bore, met some resistance and heard/felt a loud click. I needed the channelocks to remove it again. I had to use pretty significant force to remove it. I did not see any damage to the bore or the accumulator.

I would think that the hydraulic pressure would be enough to force it out of the bore and against the spring, but maybe not?

My questions are: Would the accumulator being stuck in the "up" position cause and overlap condition that made the transmission feel like it is "braking" in 2nd? What would cause the accumulator to get stuck in the bore? Thanks!
 
Yes I have seen that the trans will drag a gear like it’s got both 1&2 on at the same time with the accumulator shimmed/stuck up in the bore. I can’t explain why the acc gets stuck in the bore. I never put a spring between the vb and the acc. I put 1 in the case first then the acc and make sure the acc goes in flush so the vb will bolt on with enough clearance. Kim. Dam auto correct
 
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Thanks Kimmer! I put a different VB in the truck that is basically stock with the stock acc and a stock spring. The stock spring is between the VB and acc. That’s the way it initially came apart. I don’t think I have a spring that would fit between the acc and the case. Either way it seems to have solved the problem. Now it just wants to roll forward in neutral. But that’s a story for another post. Pretty sure this truck is cursed. LOL
 
That’s what it feels like. I read another post about the moving in neutral problem that essentially said a valve may be sticking especially in a freshly rebuilt VB. They suggested applying the brakes and giving it some throttle in neutral and in drive. Seems to be helping it act right.
However your theory may be correct because, when shifted slowly from R to N it flairs for half a second then pulls down like it’s in gear. It does NOT flair from D to N.
I replaced the stock manual valve and PR valve with Sonnax “upgrade” parts. That could be part of the issue as well.
 

Which way should I bend the tang? Towards the VB or away? I’m thinking towards the VB but it’s been a long day and I could be wrong.
 
Conclusion: I put the original VB back in and retained the stock accumulator and spring. The truck shifts like it originally did with no "braking" effect in second gear. It stays put in neutral. Seems like the stuck accumulator was the cause of the problem. Thanks Old Kimmer and everyone else for your advice!
 
I thought there was a blocker rod to put on the back side of the accumulator in some kits?
 
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