? about Hotchkis adjustable strut rods.

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MileHighDart

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So yesterday i pulled my old lower arms, and strut rods to replace them with a new set of boxed lower arms, and Hotchkis adjustable strut rods.

I'm not sure I'm happy with the adjustment I ended up with. For something called adjustable, they dont give you much range, if you're going by the instructions. They state, that the maximum extended length is to have .615" of thread showing between the lock nut and the end of the threads on the heim joint.
I adjusted the best I could without going over that amount, and thought I was good, had smooth range of motion, no binding. Until I tightened down the the nut at the rear of the strut rod. These rods are similar to stock in that they fit tightly into the control arm, and have to be pulled into the control arm with the nut to get the last 1/4" or so, so they are seated completely in the socket. Once I tightened them down I basically lost 1/4" in length, so the strut rod is now pulling the control arm forward, and there is some binding, or dragging in the motion up and down. I am already at the .615" or so on the adjustment.

Is it ok, to go over their recommended amount of extension by 1/4", or would I be better off removing the bars, and getting a couple of thick fender washers to put under the mount at the front to gain a little length. (that would be more work since I have it pretty much back together).
These are nice looking bars and I'm sure they'll work just fine once I get the adjustment right. But the only thing I dont like is that once you've seated the rod in the control arm, you cant turn the rod to make a length adjustment, unless you back the nut off, and knock the rod forward a bit so its not stuck in the control arm. Then you're kind of guessing at your adjustment until you tighten it back down again.

As soon as I get the strut adjustment figured out, i'll also be installing the Hotchkis tubular sway bar.

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I wouldn’t go past the recommendation for the length of threads that need to be left on the heim. Definitely not by a 1/4”.

Strut rod length varies by body and Hotchkis makes strut rods for a few different cars, maybe you were shipped the wrong strut rods?
 
Yeah the part number being right on the box doesn’t necessarily mean the strut rods are right, crap happens.

There aren’t a lot of options, either the strut rods are the wrong length, the installation is somehow incorrect, or the control arms aren’t in the right spot.

Have the LCA pivot pins been torqued down?
 
Yeah the part number being right on the box doesn’t necessarily mean the strut rods are right, crap happens.

There aren’t a lot of options, either the strut rods are the wrong length, the installation is somehow incorrect, or the control arms aren’t in the right spot.

Have the LCA pivot pins been torqued down?

The pins have not been torqued down, was waiting till it was on the ground for that. I suppose they might not be in the k-frame as far as when they are tightened down.


Edit, crawled under to look and you can easily see that the collar on the pin is right up against the k-frame, even though it hasn't been torqued.
 
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Just sent Hotchkis a lengthy email about the problem, and asked for their advice, and if they can tell me what the length of the strut rod is suppose to be for this application so I can measure mine and see if some mis-boxing happened or something. Although dont know how much they'll help, I bought these off ebay, from a guy I thought was a Hotchkis reseller.
We'll see what they say.
 
The pins have not been torqued down, was waiting till it was on the ground for that. I suppose they might not be in the k-frame as far as when they are tightened down.

Yup. The pivot pins have to be torqued so they’re sucked up tight in order to get the strut rod length right.

Do you have rubber or poly LCA bushing?

Just sent Hotchkis a lengthy email about the problem, and asked for their advice, and if they can tell me what the length of the strut rod is suppose to be for this application so I can measure mine and see if some mis-boxing happened or something. Although dont know how much they'll help, I bought these off ebay, from a guy I thought was a Hotchkis reseller.
We'll see what they say.

I’ve had pretty good experiences with Hotchkis’ customer support. Not sure if they’ll do much if it turns out you have the wrong ones if you bought them from someone else, but they should at least be able to give you the length.

Who knows though, just explain it to them and see what they say if you’ve got the wrong length. Worst they can say is no. They’ve been good to me when I’ve had issues.
 
Old thread revival master here, was there ever a resolve here?
I have RMS Struts bought some time ago that I have a question about
I noticed when looking through the LCA Pivot shaft hole, I am looking right at the hole/pivot point of the Strut Rod. The pivot point of the heim of the RMS rods is 3” away from that point. Will the difference in the arc cause binding issues?
I imagine any strut with a bracket mounted heim would be the same, but I haven’t heard of any problems.
I was searching threads to see if the question I have has been answered before I start yet another redundant thread.
 
Old thread revival master here, was there ever a resolve here?
I have RMS Struts bought some time ago that I have a question about
I noticed when looking through the LCA Pivot shaft hole, I am looking right at the hole/pivot point of the Strut Rod. The pivot point of the heim of the RMS rods is 3” away from that point. Will the difference in the arc cause binding issues?
I imagine any strut with a bracket mounted heim would be the same, but I haven’t heard of any problems.
I was searching threads to see if the question I have has been answered before I start yet another redundant thread.

why not just call bill at RMS directly? sure he can answer any questions you have.
 
True, the heim jointed pieces shorten the overall length of the rod, swinging a slightly different arc. It comes down to checking for binding at ride height. Results may vary.
 
I run adjustable strut rods on all of my cars, which accounts for almost 100k street miles now. I’ve always been able to set all of them so there was no binding throughout the entire suspension travel. My Challenger has 70k+ miles on the QA1 style aluminum strut rods. And my duster now has over 20k miles on an all steel set. No binding, no issues whatsoever. Original heims still doing fine on the Challenger even, despite year round, all weather driving.
 
Thanks for your inputs, I would have called Bill Reilly, but I usually try to seek unbiased input on something that could be “iffy”
 
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