AC or not?

-

megacab

Leglhi
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
146
Reaction score
14
Location
Nipomo California
Thinking of pulling the A/C out of my car today,just 318 2bbl car.I'm looking into making it more of a street/strip car and it never gets very hot around here,and that's a lot of weight.Not to mention I need to buy a 4 bbl intake and carb.Can anybody tell me what the complete set up may go for?Everything is there,and that's a ton of stuff.Cant believe how much.Of course the heater box would probably need to be removed also.Im not sure when it was last used, but it's all there.
 
Thinking of pulling the A/C out of my car today,just 318 2bbl car.I'm looking into making it more of a street/strip car and it never gets very hot around here,and that's a lot of weight.Not to mention I need to buy a 4 bbl intake and carb.Can anybody tell me what the complete set up may go for?Everything is there,and that's a ton of stuff.Cant believe how much.Of course the heater box would probably need to be removed also.Im not sure when it was last used, but it's all there.
You can sell the components to help fund your intake and carb. There's quite a few intakes that work well with the small port 318 heads. The old Edelbrock LD4B is a good choice. They haven't been made for years but do come up for sale occasionally. New or used, any intake will run from $100-$300 A 600 Edelbrock or Holley carb will work well. They go for $100 used to $300 new.
 
Ever thought about finding a 4bbl 360 LA or even maybe 360 magnum for street/strip needs with it's longer stroke? I'm not talking about dropping tons of money... just might find one in your area pretty cheap. Just switch it out "poof" more torque and horses.
 
Thanks guys for any and all input and ideas.Yeah I have thought about doing a 360 if I can find a good deal.Id love a 340 but......just sold a virgin one I've hauled around for 30 years from a 340 Duster I had as a kid.Then a few weeks later this car shows up lol.The honest deal is this car was going to be one I cleaned up and sold,but I ended up liking it more and more.This one has to be as budget as possible,I have a more serious car in the garage that needs attention also.I definately want to swap the motor out,but for now Id like to just get it driving around and maybe get a little more out of this motor and maybe transfer those pieces over later to a nicer smallblock.
 
Thanks guys for any and all input and ideas.Yeah I have thought about doing a 360 if I can find a good deal.Id love a 340 but......just sold a virgin one I've hauled around for 30 years from a 340 Duster I had as a kid.Then a few weeks later this car shows up lol.The honest deal is this car was going to be one I cleaned up and sold,but I ended up liking it more and more.This one has to be as budget as possible,I have a more serious car in the garage that needs attention also.I definately want to swap the motor out,but for now Id like to just get it driving around and maybe get a little more out of this motor and maybe transfer those pieces over later to a nicer smallblock.
Nothing wrong with that plan.
 
Last edited:
Now if it was a factory 340 AC car Id probably leave it as is,or at least keep the stuff.But I don't want to carry it around with me.Just hoping its of some value,even a little to help on other pieces.Just hard to sell it being there's so much involved,heavy ect.
 
Last edited:
Fastenall is your friend with stuff like that.
 
Thinking of pulling the A/C out of my car today,just 318 2bbl car.I'm looking into making it more of a street/strip car and it never gets very hot around here,and that's a lot of weight.Not to mention I need to buy a 4 bbl intake and carb.Can anybody tell me what the complete set up may go for?Everything is there,and that's a ton of stuff.Cant believe how much.Of course the heater box would probably need to be removed also.Im not sure when it was last used, but it's all there.

I removed all the under hood A/C stuff from my car (I photo documented it, kept it all, and boxed it up for "the next guy").

I then purchased (from ebay) another set of A/C compressor & Alternator mount brackets (from the same year & model as my car) and cut the A/C compressor mount portion off.

26157060011_large.jpg


I purchased an additional PS belt and use it to turn the alternator.

26157060012_large.jpg


I did have to do a little grinding of a water pump rib for clearance.

26157060013_large.jpg


Hope this helps!
 
Do a search on here and you'll get a good idea of what the AC box is worth.

They're worth a lot more when it's hot.
 
You bet. Stuff like rear axles, sheet metal and Halifaxhops sends Old tune up machines with them. A big sturdy cardboard box or pall
Wow,thanks for the headsup.I do buy a lot of fasteners through them because I get a discount through work.Dont really need bulk sometimes,but when you can get 100 for the price of 1 at the Hardware store.
 
Also, keep in mind if you have 2.76s or similar, and an automatic, is that if the engine can't spin the tires, the secondaries may not open until 3000 rpm or later, which may be as high as 35 mph. If only one tire spins, that doesn't mean yer fast,lol.
You will get way more performance from more stall and more gear, then you ever will by adding a 4 bbl to the anemic low-C teener with a factory TC and hiway gears,and that pitiful exhaust system.

Your A/C system is heavy all right, but what is it actually costing you in terms of performance? It probably weighs less than my wife did on our wedding day. So time a zero to whatever mph run empty, and then load 100 pounds into the passenger seat and repeat, to the same speed. What you lose in ET is about what you might gain.
___________________________________________________________
My 73 teener liked a 2800 and 4.30s,lol. But it wasn't all that bad with 3.55s and an A998 with the 2.74-1.54-1.00 ratios. It also liked a freeflowing dual exhaust with a crossover. But the Thermoquad was not a big deal.I mean really how much power can it add to an old teener,lo, even if it was freshened up! But it sure sounded like it was making a lot of power,lol.
Just so you know; 3.55 x 2.74 =9.73 starter gear; about same as 3.97s with the standard 2.45 ratio. And a 2800 bumps the teener into an rpm zone where there is, or very soon(with a 9.73 starter gear), will be, a generous amount of power.......for a 318.
If your budget is really really tight, I highly recommend the TC as your first purchase.
Of all the things you can bolt onto your old girl.....this one will make the biggest difference...... followed almost immediately by an LSD,lol.Then some timing changes and valve springs. Then exhaust. And finally, the 4bbl.
If you get to thinking about a cam, IMO, by itself,that's a bad idea. There's just not enough cylinder pressure there to work with, and the lower rpm will immediately go soggy. Thank goodness the 2800 is already in there. The stock cam is IIRC 240/248/112. And the ever popular 268 will drop cylinder pressure like a teenage girl , oh never mind. Forget that cam; it wants a lot of complementary changes that add up to a lot of money. The best cam for that engine in it's factory condition,is already in it. It will do pretty good with some 5500rpm springs, and the preceding changes........
No you won't be shifting at 5500, I don't think, but Mine did really well, being shifted at 5000 to 5200, which was 40mph with those gears. But it couldn't hardly spin the 295s back there, so I installed some studded winter tires,lol. Yeah she was my winter engine, from September-long/October 10th, to April/May-long, about 7 months a year.
Happy HotRodding.
 
Also, keep in mind if you have 2.76s or similar, and an automatic, is that if the engine can't spin the tires, the secondaries may not open until 3000 rpm or later, which may be as high as 35 mph. If only one tire spins, that doesn't mean yer fast,lol.
You will get way more performance from more stall and more gear, then you ever will by adding a 4 bbl to the anemic low-C teener with a factory TC and hiway gears,and that pitiful exhaust system.

Your A/C system is heavy all right, but what is it actually costing you in terms of performance? It probably weighs less than my wife did on our wedding day. So time a zero to whatever mph run empty, and then load 100 pounds into the passenger seat and repeat, to the same speed. What you lose in ET is about what you might gain.
___________________________________________________________
My 73 teener liked a 2800 and 4.30s,lol. But it wasn't all that bad with 3.55s and an A998 with the 2.74-1.54-1.00 ratios. It also liked a freeflowing dual exhaust with a crossover. But the Thermoquad was not a big deal.I mean really how much power can it add to an old teener,lo, even if it was freshened up! But it sure sounded like it was making a lot of power,lol.
Just so you know; 3.55 x 2.74 =9.73 starter gear; about same as 3.97s with the standard 2.45 ratio. And a 2800 bumps the teener into an rpm zone where there is, or very soon(with a 9.73 starter gear), will be, a generous amount of power.......for a 318.
If your budget is really really tight, I highly recommend the TC as your first purchase.
Of all the things you can bolt onto your old girl.....this one will make the biggest difference...... followed almost immediately by an LSD,lol.Then some timing changes and valve springs. Then exhaust. And finally, the 4bbl.
If you get to thinking about a cam, IMO, by itself,that's a bad idea. There's just not enough cylinder pressure there to work with, and the lower rpm will immediately go soggy. Thank goodness the 2800 is already in there. The stock cam is IIRC 240/248/112. And the ever popular 268 will drop cylinder pressure like a teenage girl , oh never mind. Forget that cam; it wants a lot of complementary changes that add up to a lot of money. The best cam for that engine in it's factory condition,is already in it. It will do pretty good with some 5500rpm springs, and the preceding changes........
No you won't be shifting at 5500, I don't think, but Mine did really well, being shifted at 5000 to 5200, which was 40mph with those gears. But it couldn't hardly spin the 295s back there, so I installed some studded winter tires,lol. Yeah she was my winter engine, from September-long/October 10th, to April/May-long, about 7 months a year.
Happy HotRodding.
Aj, what time is it?
 
Thanks AJ.I agree with ya on all that lol.My previous Duster I had was pretty stock when I purchased it,just a high mile 340 that ate a cam on the 2 hour trip home.So I swapped in a stock 318 to keep me motivated.With 430 gears and a dead cylinder it ran a string of 14.80s lol.But it kept me in the hobby which is all I needed.Eventually I yanked the 318 and went back to a N/A 340(stroked)which got me into the 12's,11's ect until I was in the high 9's over a 6 year period.But I can't afford to build that combo again even though the drivetrain was pretty basic in design.
The curent one is a 318 that came stock with a 8 3/4.Havent checked gear ratio yet,but I do have some 3.91's,a TA 3800 stall and a 727 with a manual valve body from parts left over from the last car as I was upgrading.Currently this one has a 904.Since the 318 runs so well I figured Id build around it and lastly replace the 318.But it kind of takes me back to high school,trying to see what you can get out of it for the least amount lol.And if I can get this car into the 12's eventually with a 340/360 and drive it from town to town Im ok with it.
 
Member 318WillRun
knows how to make 318s sing, for low money.
I know how to make a stock 318 sing by coordinating add-ons.But I'll never ever up-cam a stock 8/1 teener again, ever.
You already have what it takes to have fun with,the 3.91s. But the 3800 won't leave much Rs to work with, as the stocker is done around 4800.
Your case is kindof special, cuz you wouldn't care about the lazy bottom-end. To that end you could install a Solid flat tappet cam, and get some torque back.
_____________________________________________
Say your car scales at 3200# car and driver;and say you would be happy with a 12.9;
Well,my charts don't list street chassis, so I have to aim a second faster,on the SS charts and when I do,I get a power requirement of 350 hp@3200lbs now with a street chassis. This may trap at 108. But may ET just into the 12s. (And if you spend a boatload of money on it, minimum SS ET is about 12.2)
350hp is doable with any SBM, but with a 318 at 8/1Scr, it's gonna take a very rowdy cam, and maybe it will be a PITA around town, and suck a lotta gas while doing it, and so,it may end up parked for a lot of the time..
The 360 is a much better starting point.
_____________________________________________
But my favorite thing is to just throw something fun together for the street, and let it trap what it traps. From the trapspeed we can back-calculate the minimum ET, and that's always been good enough for me. And in that case, I'd leave that 3800 in the box,lol.
 
Lol,I hear ya.Im hoping that (3800)will go into another project if it EVER gets finished lol.It worked great in the other car until I stepped up to the 5k.That really woke the old car up.Just as you said,fun to see what you can cobble together.And as far as AC goes,I'm almost thinking of removing it for the cleanliness of it also.Doesnt work on the car,and it's pretty much in the way when your doing anything.I just don't want to store that stuff.Been trying to liquidate all that Im not using.Have a shed of E body stuff as it is,now I've got 5 Duster doors,fenders....lol.Plenty to get it going as far as parts,just need to lose the extra.
 
Lol,I hear ya.Im hoping that (3800)will go into another project if it EVER gets finished lol.It worked great in the other car until I stepped up to the 5k.That really woke the old car up.Just as you said,fun to see what you can cobble together.And as far as AC goes,I'm almost thinking of removing it for the cleanliness of it also.Doesnt work on the car,and it's pretty much in the way when your doing anything.I just don't want to store that stuff.Been trying to liquidate all that Im not using.Have a shed of E body stuff as it is,now I've got 5 Duster doors,fenders....lol.Plenty to get it going as far as parts,just need to lose the extra.
 
-
Back
Top