Can't be loose ballast or any liquid. You can use steel/aluminum battery/ballast boxes. The boxes and/or steel bars have to use a minimum of two 1/2" grade 8 bolts mounted through the frame or major crossmembers per 100 lbs. If I find some pics, I'll post them.Just a thought.... Sandbags.
Thanks.
A battery box is a good idea, with what ever in put in there for weight! Because, in the end i will have my battery in the trunk. So might as well us it as a weight box until i get around to buying that heavy *** welding cable/battery cable to mount it in the trunk.
Hmmmmm.
I was just looking at that as well.......I need to figure out how to add weight in my Dart. I have four lead square bars that are about 27lbs each, just hate to drill a bunch of holes in the trunk floor. May look at adding them under the bumper.
I like this idea as well!!!I use a big old craftsman open toolbox, bolted thru the floor, and one frame rail
I use a big old craftsman open toolbox, bolted thru the floor, and one frame rail. Two feet long, one foot wide, one foot deep, i know i can get almost a hundred pounds in it. Take a padlock off, open the lid, add or subtract whatever.
View attachment 1715744974
Put it over the rear axle to just add weight. Farthest back you can put it on the passenger side, to help traction.
Edit, ignore the splash of sunlight, its not in the trunk at the moment.
No workie
this is all i got
No workie
Youre right, wall thickness isnt close to being legal.I'm pretty sure the rule book gets pretty specific on the box construction and a "by-the-book" tech guy wouldn't allow it. The two little flip latches likely wouldn't contain the ballast in a violent crash and the wall thickness is probably also be a factor in containing the contents as well as keeping it secured through the floor and frame.
I used a piece of 2" square tubing i had left over from my subframe connectors. I welded one end shut then filled it with used lead wheel weights I got from the local tire shop (brought them all some coffee!) I pounded the weights in then welded the other end closed. Added some angle iron brackets and bolted to the frame in the trunk. It weighed 100 lbs.Well I'm here at the trace with my cheeter slick back on, 160 pound of weight in the trunk.
Can all most make it hook but had to raise my air pressure back up to 20 psi because the rim is spinning on the bead.
Good plan but no hook for me. will put screws in the rim for the next street legal race in Aug.
Really thought it would hook and go.......well ok it is .3 quicker with 160 pound of weight.
The weight helped.........just not enough.
o well having fun burning up these old 60' style drag slicks.