adjusting brake pedal push rod?

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nevjr

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I have an old death onion in my 62 valiant. The brake pedal has more dead travel than it should. The brakes all work and everything, but a friend suggested that the pushrod might need adjusting. Is this a possibility? anyone got instructions?
 
aftermarket offers adjustable push rods if really thing you need one.
 
The only time you might need an adjustable push rod is if the master cylinder is aftermarket. Sometimes a firewall adapter plate is used, and/or sometimes an aftermarket m.c. isn't made exactly like the OEM part, and adjustability is needed. But if everything is stock. you won't have one, or need one.
 
Another vote for: if your setup is stock, the m/c pushrod isn't adjustable; if you have too much pedal free play (and if spot on, it will have more than a new car will) then the brakes need adjusting.
 
brakes are bled and adjusted, and its not dangerously excessive, just mildly excessive. I will probably just live with it until I can upgrade them, thanks all
 
As stated, the brake shoes probably need to be manually adjusted OUT. The FSM shows the procedure but the short version IS to adjust the shoes until the drum barely makes contact with the shoes. If the drum slips on with lots of clearance, the brake pedal has to travel further to close up that gap.
Give it a try and report back. Everyone likes to know when a problem gets solved.
 
I adjusted the rears, problem worsened. i realized I was doing it the wrong direction on the passenger side. corrected that issue and returned to where it was before it seems. will adjust fronts and bleed all 4 later.
 
I have an old death onion in my 62 valiant. The brake pedal has more dead travel than it should. The brakes all work and everything, but a friend suggested that the pushrod might need adjusting. Is this a possibility? anyone got instructions?
Have you checked the bolt that holds it to the brake petal?...thats where I'd start...its not a heim joint the eye of the pushrod just rides on the bolt
 
Always start in the back, and adjust until the brakes jam up. Then go pump the brake pedal to center the shoes. Then go jam up the shoes some more. And then go pump the pedal again to, as before, center the shoes and starwheels. Now loosen the starwheels just enough that the wheels will turn; a lil rubbing is fine. The drums are not likely to be round nor free of taper, so some rubbing is fine. That's how I do it, to get a hard pedal.
Now go do the fronts the same way, but here I don't allow quite as much drag.
This should all but eliminate your dead pedal. Some deadness has to be there to endure your master-cylinder piston retracts all the way, to ensure the Compensating Port remains open.
On an all-drum M/C the pushrod is captured in the back of the piston, and so that end is not supposed to have any play in it. If yours does have play there, you can figure out a way to eliminate it, but remember; when yur done, the C-port has to allow the fluid to return to the reservoir.
 
so i adjusted the fronts after a bit of driving the car. i didnt recheck the rears. the front passenger side was fine, one click made it just start to drag, the drivers front was quite a bit out though. the pedal feel and height improved pretty dramatically. i will give it a bit of driving, bleed all 4 and adjust all 4 one more time i think. i will also look at the pedal and see if anything seems bad up there. thanks all
 
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