Sooooo YOU are saying that it is idling a 650 rpm and when you put it in gear(warm) it idles at 350 rpm,................Find that hard to believe.
adjusting my vac
- Thread starter SRT_DSTRHOLC
- Start date
-
Sooooo YOU are saying that it is idling a 650 rpm and when you put it in gear(warm) it idles at 350 rpm,................Find that hard to believe.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
what? no... when the car is cold.....it idles at 650 cold! if i put it in gear it drops to 550...When I warm the car up too 180deg...its at 950 and when u put it in gear it drops too 650
73SWING
Active Member
choke stuck?
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
its a 750 dp no choke
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
ya i will
You can't write comedy better than this... see post #67 because it continues.
You don't need a timing light to set the initial! Keep turning timing into the engine a little at a time. If the engine picks up RPM, you're not there yet, but closer to correct. Keep the idle constant as you do this. As the rpm moves up, close the throttle plates.
You can do the same thing with a vacuum gauge. Dial in timing, max vacuum at constant idle, then back out 1" retarding.
Before you do any of this, reset all the idle screws to the baseline 1.5 turns out. I know why the rears are more out than the fronts, but, you don't like to listen very well.
Your converter isn't even an issue because the idle isn't even close to correct (primaries open too much). Cart before the horse. Until you get the timing squared away, ANYTHING you attempt to diagnose as a problem is bullsh!t...
Have fun, cause this thread is a blast to read. :-D
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
i dont need a timing light i know this, but i feel better knowing where its at...I have to replace the intake gaskets...there leaking...When I replace them in 2 days when they come in.. I will do what you said set too 1.5 turns..not worry bout the converter until the timing is in...and ill listen and do what is suggested now.. Timing before ANYTHING else besides the intake gaskets..I will fix the intake leak and then set the timing and I wont respond until I get the most initial I can before the starter starts too kick back then remove 2 degrees and try it again. Im curious now, why are the rears different than the front?
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Excellant !!!!!!!!
![wayne-garth-waynes-world-15834539[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/wayne-garth-waynes-world-15834539-1-jpg.119599/ "wayne-garth-waynes-world-15834539[1].jpg")
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
hmmmmm im BACK! =/ so I put the initial at 24...and the RPM would go up and I would lower it back too what I want but when I lowered it...the Initial went down and when I raised the Rpm the initial went up but I dident lock the dizzy down while setting it, because I thought it was suppose to stay still...I set the initial too 19...The vac dident change it was still going nuts and the rpm in gear didnt change...I have it set at 950 and it drops too 650-700... I dont know what it is... the front screws are at 1/2 the rears are at 1 1/2 and thats what the motor sounds good at...I dont know what to do..I changed the oil because i had a water leak from the intake but i changed the gaskets and sealed it up correct but I still see little bubbles on the dip stick...Ill re check it again because last time when it cooled down the bubbles went away..But nothing really changed with the initial changing.. I need more RPMs in Gear like 800 and I think its the Tq pulling down on the motor
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Im going to re do this again tomorrow but lock it down at 24 in park. I dont think it will help the vac or rpm in gear..but hopefully it will
Man, you still can't do it right! You REALLY need to find someone that knows what they are doing or actually pay attention to what people are suggesting you do... the trainwreck continues! You are so frustrating to try and assist.
If the timing changed and dropped when you reduced the rpm, it was bleeding mechanical advance into it. Basically, you didn't have 24* on it. INITIAL MEANS NO MECHANICAL ADVANCE AT ALL IN THE EQUATION!!! This is EXACTLY the same thing dragnknights' car was doing. If the timing dropped out as you lowered the rpm, you needed to reset the initial to 24*.
Put the stiffest advance springs that come with the distributor on that thing to make sure the advance won't start coming in at all. Once you get the idle squared away, you can put lighter springs on it for quicker mechanical advance, AS LONG as the mechanical doesn't come in at idle.
The drop is still pretty big and likely because the primary throttle plates are open too much. So are the primaries really sooty black? 950 rpm isn't high enough with that cam either, it's probably going to want an idle around 1050-1100. If you can get it lower, great.
If the timing changed and dropped when you reduced the rpm, it was bleeding mechanical advance into it. Basically, you didn't have 24* on it. INITIAL MEANS NO MECHANICAL ADVANCE AT ALL IN THE EQUATION!!! This is EXACTLY the same thing dragnknights' car was doing. If the timing dropped out as you lowered the rpm, you needed to reset the initial to 24*.
Put the stiffest advance springs that come with the distributor on that thing to make sure the advance won't start coming in at all. Once you get the idle squared away, you can put lighter springs on it for quicker mechanical advance, AS LONG as the mechanical doesn't come in at idle.
The drop is still pretty big and likely because the primary throttle plates are open too much. So are the primaries really sooty black? 950 rpm isn't high enough with that cam either, it's probably going to want an idle around 1050-1100. If you can get it lower, great.
Is you vac gauge dampened?????? if its not you will NEVER EVER GET THAT D*M NEEDLE TO STOP TWITCHING AND MOVING A ROUND!
How do you find out?...... hook it up to a buddy's vehicle and see if the vac gauge act the same.
Do NOT set the idle where YOU want it. Set it at 650-700 and keep turning it down to that rpm every time you advance the timing and the eng speed up.
We are trying to keep the centrifugal advance out of the equation.
When you have you eng at 900+ the vac advance is advancing your eng,........then you manually advance you eng, the eng increases in RPM because it like the advance, PLUS the rpm is higher, so the centrifugal advance adds some more timing. Fallowing so far?
Now you turn the idle screw down and you loose timing,,,,,,,Why you say!!!!!! because, although you dist hasn't moved, from idling the eng back down, your centrifugal advance has.( the spring and weights in the dist)
Put you vac gauge in you tool box and FORGET about it for the time being. Set you idle mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns and FORGET about them.
Advance timing, turn idle back down...... advance, turn idle down. continue until eng don't like what your doing. NOW HOOK YOU TIMING LIGHT UP, AND DROP IT BACK A COUPLE OF DEGREES. turn you idle back up were YOU like it and drive it.
hope this helped.
260* at .050... It's HUGE for his engine.
The vacuum gauge will help... WHEN he gets the initial dialed in. Only then will that tool be effective. He's in the transfer slots right now.
Maybe he'll pay attention to what you wrote... it looks very similar to my suggestion.
WOW! OK, agreed! 74 you will have to keep the idle up higher.
Crackedback i agree that the vac gauge will help but he seams to only do the last thing you tell him So.......... 74 Go back and read the last 3 or 4 post, again..........You will get it,......one step at a time.
change the cam...LOL
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks guys the primarys arent sooty but they are black i think of sooty as of like flat black these are black but the carb was never messed with from Bigs performance carbs. He set it and dynoed it and sent it too me. I will put the heavy springs in and do wha you said but i really do think the converter is pulling the motor down which is causing the rpm drop because even if i do raise the rpm it still drops to 650-700 which is the reason i think it is the converter and nothing else
One step at a time, we will worry about the converter, as well as the carb tuning LATER.
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Ok
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Ok
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
you said "Do NOT set the idle where YOU want it. Set it at 650-700 and keep turning it down to that rpm every time you advance the timing and the eng speed up." Would I keep it at 650-700 in gear or at idle..since I will be setting timing in Park and not in gear...
SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
So what Im going to do is this.... Put the stiffer springs in..warm the motor up to operating temp..put the carb front and back too 1.5 turns...set the idle too 1100rpm in Park...Then thats when I mess with the Initial..This is where Im a little confused...Do I keep increasing initial until the rpms stop going up or should I go up 2 degrees at a time...lock it down lower rpm turn off and try to start it and repeat? And you said leave it where it likes it...I have the black bushing in its the lowest for the MSD I have no vac advance...Is there a way to get less mechanical besides the FBO bushings? Im just afraid that if I have too much initial with my 18 mechanical that it will ping with my 10.7 compression and 95 octane..
green1
Well-Known Member
bump
-
