Aftermarket axles, green bearings and thrust block

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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So I have the usual problem of the green bearings keeping the axle from searing by about 1/4 in, I would remove the thrust block, but there is a chance I may go back to tappered later.

Is it better to cut the axle instead, so that both style bearings fit regardless?
 
If you cut the axle 1/4", if you ever went back to a tapered bearing later, how would you get any preload on the bearings? I'd just pull the thrust block and reinstall if/when you go back to a tapered bearing.
 
I've always used moser axles with green bearings and have never had to pull the thrust block out. Just ordered s set of axles with green bearings from dr diff and he assured me that I wouldn't have to pull the thrust block out.


Who's axles is the original poster useing ?
 
abodyjoe said:
I've always used moser axles with green bearings and have never had to pull the thrust block out. Just ordered s set of axles with green bearings from dr diff and he assured me that I wouldn't have to pull the thrust block out.


Who's axles is the original poster useing ?
Click to expand...
Think maybe yukon, came without sticker Bought from someone who didn't use
 
I trimmed my stock axles but have no plans to go back. Would you not be able to still use them trimmed if you went back to tapered bearings?
 
Apparently I was lied to. They're stock axles just cleaned up really well and green bearings.
 
I manufactured some thick aluminum spacers to go between the retainers and the backing plates. Of Course this moved the drums over, and the wheels and the tires; the thickness of the spacers. The drums now sat over the shoes in a different place. So, I put the shims between the backing plates and the flanges instead. And reset the endplay adjuster to Zero. Problem solved.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I manufactured some thick aluminum spacers to go between the retainers and the backing plates. Of Course this moved the drums over, and the wheels and the tires; the thickness of the spacers. The drums now sat over the shoes in a different place. So, I put the shims between the backing plates and the flanges instead. And reset the endplay adjuster to Zero. Problem solved.
Click to expand...
Idk if i will have enough room to play with if i add another 1/8 inch
 
Well then you have three choices; move the lip, cut the axles, or pull the T-block.

There is one other choice, which is the same as manufacturing spacers. You can pull the bearings off and put a collar on there first.In fact, if one wheel is looser to the lip than the other, you can put the whole spacer on this side. But it will pop the drum out too, so you will have to machine the ridge off the unworn part.
 
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