aftermarket volt/alt gauge wiring help

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Nite Moves

Nite Moves

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Hello all. A quick and im sure a easy question for most. I have a after market alt/volt gauge i want to install. 2 wires Equus guage set up. What is the easiest way to hook up the wires? I know one is grnd but any ideas for a almost idiot?????????? No instructions at all with guage. Looked it up and hell, kind of confusing.Any help is appreciated.
 
You are right (one wire is ground and the other 12v.) and you could connect it at the old amp meter terminals behind the cluster. (best place in my opinion)
Do NOT connect it like the amp meter was though, as you want the positive wire for the gauge to connect at that spot and the ground wire for the gauge to be directly to ground.

Or right off the main large power supply wire to the column (ignition) would also be fine and to ground with the ground wire.

The positive wire needs to be on a switched power connection in any case.
 
Ed, from what I see from Equus site. Find a wire that is HOT with the key in ON position (cigarette lighter, radio) that wire goes to + on the gauge, and the - goes to a good ground.

Here is the link
[ame]http://www.equus.com/Content/Support/Manual/8100.pdf[/ame]
 
4spdragtop said:
Ed, from what I see from Equus site. Find a wire that is HOT with the key in ON position (cigarette lighter, radio) that wire goes to + on the gauge, and the - goes to a good ground.

Here is the link
http://www.equus.com/Content/Support/Manual/8100.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks got a email from you. Just read it, sorry. WTF.........I searched and searched and couldnt get crap.........Dam Steve.......:prayer: Yah! your the man:banghead:
 
Thanks everyone, i got it.......sorry got caught up with 4speeds email and now response to my thread..........:banghead:Once a dum ***,,,always a dum *** :banghead: Man i wish i was smarter at this stuff:violent1: Sorry real bad day. Thanks again everyone:D
 
Nite Moves said:
Thanks got a email from you. Just read it, sorry. WTF.........I searched and searched and couldnt get crap.........Dam Steve.......:prayer: Yah! your the man:banghead:
Click to expand...

Does the org one still work Ed? Im wondering if there are any issues with you having both orig and aftermarket gauges hooked up?? I've no idea.....anyone?
 
Nite Moves said:
Thanks everyone, i got it.......sorry got caught up with 4speeds email and now response to my thread..........:banghead:Once a dum ***,,,always a dum *** :banghead: Man i wish i was smarter at this stuff:violent1: Sorry real bad day. Thanks again everyone:D
Click to expand...


Sorry I steered you in the wrong direction in the email Ed. I thought you were going with stock alt/ammeter gauge. My bad:violent1:
 
Hooked it up tonite and all seems ok. Found the cig. lighter wire (not using anyway) and used it. Thanks everyone btw...it shows on gauge all the time key on or not, well until i unhook battery cable
 
Nite Moves said:
Hooked it up tonite and all seems ok. Found the cig. lighter wire (not using anyway) and used it. Thanks everyone btw...it shows on gauge all the time key on or not, well until i unhook battery cable
Click to expand...

Glad its wired up Ed. I think the cig wire is hot all the time. Does it have a light?
 
The positive wire needs to be on a switched power wire. (a wire that is only 12v with the key on)

That's why I suggested to connect it where I did in my post.
I also prefer that it is connected to a good capable source (Large positive wire or terminal)
Other loads on a circuit using small wire like a cig lighter and other possible accessories could give you a lower than actual reading on the gauge)
 
TrailBeast said:
The positive wire needs to be on a switched power wire. (a wire that is only 12v with the key on)

That's why I suggested to connect it where I did in my post.
I also prefer that it is connected to a good capable source (Large positive wire or terminal)
Other loads on a circuit using small wire like a cig lighter and other possible accessories could give you a lower than actual reading on the gauge)
Click to expand...

Thanks and good to know. I appreciate your post & knowledge......please i wasnt ignoring you. Just going buy the info givin to me from Equus its self is all. I will be changing the set up now that i know its in working condition
 
At the risk of complicating this, now would be a good time to verify if you have voltage drop in the ignition supply to the VR and ignition, and "do something" about it.

Voltage drop to your VR IGN terminal actually causes OVER charging. Also, if the voltmeter is hooked to something that is measuring "untrue" voltage, it won't give you a clear picture of what gives

Depending on what you have for a charging system (pre 70, 70 / later, or "something else") turn the key to "run" with the engine off. Put one meter probe on battery + and the other on an IGN "run" terminal, such as the IGN terminal of the (69 / earlier) regulator, or the blue field wire on a (70 / later) alternator. What you are hoping for is a very low reading, the lower the better. More than .3V means you have a problem, that is, 3/10 of one volt

One way around this is to use a relay to supply the ignition. "cut" the blue "run" wire, and use the lead coming from the key to fire the relay, then use the relay switched contact to feed the underhood "run" loads. You can fuse / breaker it off the start relay stud

THAT should give you solid battery voltage, and if you can run that back to the voltmeter, will ALSO give the voltmeter a true "picture" of what is going on.
 
67Dart273 said:
At the risk of complicating this, now would be a good time to verify if you have voltage drop in the ignition supply to the VR and ignition, and "do something" about it.

Voltage drop to your VR IGN terminal actually causes OVER charging. Also, if the voltmeter is hooked to something that is measuring "untrue" voltage, it won't give you a clear picture of what gives

Depending on what you have for a charging system (pre 70, 70 / later, or "something else") turn the key to "run" with the engine off. Put one meter probe on battery + and the other on an IGN "run" terminal, such as the IGN terminal of the (69 / earlier) regulator, or the blue field wire on a (70 / later) alternator. What you are hoping for is a very low reading, the lower the better. More than .3V means you have a problem, that is, 3/10 of one volt

One way around this is to use a relay to supply the ignition. "cut" the blue "run" wire, and use the lead coming from the key to fire the relay, then use the relay switched contact to feed the underhood "run" loads. You can fuse / breaker it off the start relay stud

THAT should give you solid battery voltage, and if you can run that back to the voltmeter, will ALSO give the voltmeter a true "picture" of what is going on.
Click to expand...
Thanks.........this is all great info and need.
 
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