AirLine Moisture - How to Remove?

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oneway71

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Hello

What tricks do you have for keeping moisture out of air compressor lines? I am getting ready to paint need a remedy quick.

I am getting a huge amount of water in my airlines. This is the first time in several years with this compressor that I am getting noticeable moisture.

I have 3 coalescent filters with water traps, I have 2 silica gel filters, and 1 homemade water trap. I drain all tanks daily and sometimes more.

After replacing the beads in the filters I can make it about 20 minutes before water appears and the beads turn pink. I also drain filters several times a day.

Any suggestions or ideas?
 
1/2 NPT water trap at the compressor,20 foot of air hose and another water trap with 3/8 NPT.If you still get some moisture add a dryer.Oh good stuff no Harbor Frieght junk!
 
Thanks

All my traps are within a few feet of the compressor. I will move the last one 20ft out and try that. 20ft of line will help the water condense and then maybe it will filter out better.
 
Weird how you have used the same setup before with no water and now water. Ive been doing some reading lately on this as I am doing media blasting now. You can get an air dryer and install it approx 25' from the outlet on the compressor. What I have read is that immediately after the air leaves the compressor, it is in vapor form and will pass thru water filters. Apparently an air dryer will cure this problem....Subscribed!!
 
I had 2 filters at the compressor and I have had no problems until this past week. My blasting media is plugging and my sanders are filling with water. I added new filters today after the ones at the compressor and made it about 20 minutes before the beads changed color and water started making it to my tools.

I am checking into dryers; maybe I can find an affordable one and then install filters after the dryer.
 
I used to have a coil of 3/8 pipe in a five gallon bucket that I would fill with water and ice, kind of on the order of a large "Kool Can", when the humidity got higher when I painted. I would put it at the far end of the shop from the compressor with a water filter immediatly following. It was amazing how much water would be extracted after the air was cooled.
 
Keeping the air hose off of the floor helps too, especially if you have a concrete floor. Water will condense in the hose if conditions are right.
Dallas
 
MOBodyman said:
Keeping the air hose off of the floor helps too, especially if you have a concrete floor. Water will condense in the hose if conditions are right.
Dallas
Click to expand...

This is the single biggest major problem I ever ran in to. Got the hose down to a desireable length and moved the air connectors well away from the actual compressor. I also made a U loop with a pipe about 8 to 10 feet from the compressor in the middle that was about 4 feet long so it ended up looking like a square Y. On the down leg I installed a valve and ran the pipe outside to drain off the water there. Put the dryers in after that and never had a water issue again.
 
Good suggestions.

I designed a system last night that I think will help. I will run 2 loops of 60' pipe with a drain at the end of each loop. This 120' of pipe should condense the water into the drains. I will slope the pipe to the drains. Then I will add the filters and tools. I will probably run this piping above my ceiling to allow for more cooling of the line. Research shows that even a 10 degree drop in line temp should condense out most of my water.

I will price the piping today and take pics if I go this route. If it is cheaper to buy a cooler I will go that route.
 
I have a filter that takes a roll of toilet paper I have used this type of filter in every shop I have pained in and have never seen any water.you can get them for around 50.00 bucks.....Artie
 
I have heard of the toilet paper filter but have never seen one. If I could see the inside of one or knew where to buy one I would jump on it!

I just found the MotorGaurd toilet paper filters about an hour away and will get one this afternoon. Way more $$ locally but I will have it today!

Thanks for the link!
 
Do you have any drops in the system. Filters alone may not get the water out of the system, especially when overtaxxed.

The air needs to cool and water needs a place to go, drops. The filters are really to capture the last residual water/contaminents in the line, not clean the line of everything coming out of the compressor.
 
oneway71 said:
Good suggestions.

I designed a system last night that I think will help. I will run 2 loops of 60' pipe with a drain at the end of each loop. This 120' of pipe should condense the water into the drains. I will slope the pipe to the drains. Then I will add the filters and tools. I will probably run this piping above my ceiling to allow for more cooling of the line. Research shows that even a 10 degree drop in line temp should condense out most of my water.

I will price the piping today and take pics if I go this route. If it is cheaper to buy a cooler I will go that route.
Click to expand...

oneway,
You are on the right track here. As someone else said earlier, the water in the air is in vapor form when it leaves the compressor and filters will not take out the vapor. You will need at least 25' of metal line between the compressor and the hose connection for the vapor to condense out of the air. Rubber and plastic hose/pipe will not do it. The horizontal runs of the pipe should run downhill and the tap for your outlet line should go up from the horizontal run before it goes down for your connection. Have at lest a 6" drop below your take-off leg for the gun. You will also need at least 3/4" pipe for all of your plumbing to the quick disconnect.

I am in the same situation that you are. I have the pipe I need laying in the garage along with a couple of boxes of nipples, valves and fittings to do exactly what you are talking about.............and for the same reasons. I am not painting yet, but I have water getting pushed out of all my pneumatic tools in no time flat. Since most of our summer weather is also pretty humid, it can be a real PITA!! Good luck and let us know how it works out. L8r

Jim
 
go to a napa store or anyone that sells wix filters. wix offers a system called aqua chek and it does a great job, the size you buy depends on thr size (horse power) of your compressor. you can check them out on the wix site.
 
godfatherofchry said:
I have a filter that takes a roll of toilet paper I have used this type of filter in every shop I have pained in and have never seen any water.you can get them for around 50.00 bucks.....Artie
Click to expand...

sounds like a cool filter, any chance of getting the info on it??
 
4spdragtop said:
sounds like a cool filter, any chance of getting the info on it??
Click to expand...

Here is one style and a link for information.
d_1370.jpg

http://www.bhigr.com/store/product.php?productid=459
 
This is the basic system I use with the exceptions being I make a U at the point they are using a T and my dryers are installed later in the system. I always use 3/4 galvanized iron pipe.

PipingLayout.gif
 
Category 2nd stage filter
Motorgaurd M30 & M45 (Recommended)
Nowhere else can you get .01 micron filtration for such a low price. Common known as a "toilet paper" filter - (i.e. because people cheat and put a toilet paper roll inside the filter instead of purchasing replaceable filter packs), these 2nd filter units provide tremendous air protection at the lowest costs in the industry. See also M60 & M100

This one has 1/2" fittings but you can also buy it with 1/4 fittings.

http://search.cartserver.com/search...ategory=datapaint&maxhits=20&keywords=MOT-M60

M30md.gif
 
As mentioned above, make sure you put a valve on the bottom of the tank, and drain the tank daily. The heating of the air from the compressor is usually what causes the most moisture. If you can I always run a box fan on the compressor to keep it cool. Running an air dryer is a must for paint process.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Category 2nd stage filter
Motorgaurd M30 & M45 (Recommended)
Nowhere else can you get .01 micron filtration for such a low price. Common known as a "toilet paper" filter - (i.e. because people cheat and put a toilet paper roll inside the filter instead of purchasing replaceable filter packs), these 2nd filter units provide tremendous air protection at the lowest costs in the industry. See also M60 & M100

This one has 1/2" fittings but you can also buy it with 1/4 fittings.

http://search.cartserver.com/search...ategory=datapaint&maxhits=20&keywords=MOT-M60

M30md.gif
Click to expand...
yes this is the one.I got mine from ( t.p.tools& equip.)wen I got mine they were all but 60.00 bucks I just looked and they are 72.00$ part # 3405-60 this is a good co.to buy any thing air related. I think this is were cuda chick get all her stuff....hope this helps........Artie
 
4spdragtop said:
sounds like a cool filter, any chance of getting the info on it??
Click to expand...


Motor Guard - I just bought the Motor Guard 60.

http://www.motorguard.com/air_2_2.html

I just installed a 40' loop in my ceiling of 3/4" pipe with 3 drops (drains) before my filters. I have 4 drops total now. I also added the Motor guard 60. I also installed an expansion tank after my filters to help cool and condense more water. My air is drawn off at the highest point now.

I will fire it up in the morning and see how well this cooling loop works.
 
oneway71 said:
Motor Guard - I just bought the Motor Guard 60.

http://www.motorguard.com/air_2_2.html

I just installed a 40' loop in my ceiling of 3/4" pipe with 3 drops (drains) before my filters. I have 4 drops total now. I also added the Motor guard 60. I also installed an expansion tank after my filters to help cool and condense more water. My air is drawn off at the highest point now.

I will fire it up in the morning and see how well this cooling loop works.
Click to expand...

What kind of pipe did you use?
 
I use very similar setup. Condense air thru a coil of 1/2 inch or larger copper or steel pipe submerged in a 5 gallon bucket, followed by good water trap filter unit. The more coil or length under water the better. 10 or more feet coil submerged. Use large diameter pipe to slow air flow allowing time to cool the air in the condenser. The key is getting the air to cool drastically causing moisture to condense out then trap it directly after. Even a simple few elbows forming a square of steel pipe 3/4 " so that you have a couple loops of steel pipe in the water then a trap will make major improvement in water removal. It sounds like the ice water in the bucket would multiply the condensing and water removal.

grimreaper said:
I used to have a coil of 3/8 pipe in a five gallon bucket that I would fill with water and ice, kind of on the order of a large "Kool Can", when the humidity got higher when I painted. I would put it at the far end of the shop from the compressor with a water filter immediatly following. It was amazing how much water would be extracted after the air was cooled.
Click to expand...
 
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