Alignment

[fastmopar]

Any one experience this?

I set the alignment after replacing the small lug dia with large froma 75 A body. Not real accurate. Just to get it to an alignment shop.

Every time I take it around the block I get one or the other tire to go either Toe in or out by a lot. Tire starts to scream (skid) it's so far out.

Stock steering components

Any ideas?

fastmopar

 

[pettybludart]

Sounds like you have to set the control arm adjustment,take it to a frontend shop and they,ll fix you up!

 

[alsdemon]

ya to much toe in or toe out will squeel like a pig on turns. try to find a old school guys all the newer shop have computor racks they will tell the guy how to make the adjustments if he don,t know , the old school guy knows how to with out instuctions. we don,t spell well either. ha ha als

 

[C130 Chief]

Everything tight? If you are starting out with both wheels straight ahead at the same time and it changes after driving a few feet something is wrong. A bad idler arm or LCA mount can cause problems like this.

 

[6pk2goDemon]

Since you changed the suspension from SBP to LBP, you have also changed most aspects of your alignment.....not just the toe.

Take it and get it aligned.

 

[375inStroke]

You're probably preloading the suspension, and the tires aren't allowing the wheels to point where they want to until you get them to roll a bit. When you lower the car off the jack, the wheels will be preloaded into a more positive camber position. They'll straiten out once you drive it a bit. Too much toe out will cause the wheels to camber negative, and too much toe in will cause them to camber positive. Start with the front eccentric all the way out, and the rear all the way in. I do my alignments myself, but if you insist on taking it to a shop, just get a carpenter's square, and set it next to the wheel and measure from it to a flat part of the outside of the rim. The measurement should be the same at the top and the bottom if the wheel is at zero camber. If the top of the wheel is too far out, bring the front eccentric in. If the top of the wheel is too far in, bring the rear eccentric out. Then check the toe, and set if for 1/16" toe in. Then drive the car 100' or so, and make a few turns to settle things in, and then check again. If you want 1degree negative camber, set the wheel so the top is 3/8" in farther then the bottom of the wheel.

 

[player1up]

..........I do my alignments myself, but if you insist on taking it to a shop, just get a carpenter's square, and set it next to the wheel and measure from it to a flat part of the outside of the rim. The measurement should be the same at the top and the bottom if the wheel is at zero camber. If the top of the wheel is too far out, bring the front eccentric in. If the top of the wheel is too far in, bring the rear eccentric out. Then check the toe, and set if for 1/16" toe in. Then drive the car 100' or so, and make a few turns to settle things in, and then check again. If you want 1degree negative camber, set the wheel so the top is 3/8" in farther then the bottom of the wheel.

I've done the alignment at home thing and drove it for a year and a half with no issues and no strange tire wear .... took it to a shop to get it aligned a little more toward the autox settings.....now it's wearing my tires on the outside edge, not bad but more wear, maybe I'm driving it too hard

 

[res1vw21]

don't forget to tell them to take the preload off the lower control arm where the tbar goes in. not the height for the car but where the lca goes into the kmember (and then re tighten)